Need something between PC and speakers/headphones... no clue what that might be.

[Kutusov]

Hi guys, have been lurking this and other forums but I gave up trying to figure this one out for myself.

So here's the situation... I was used to some audio quality from previous PCs and speakers and I'm just not getting that now playing music (especially classical). Here's what I have:
- Some random HP motherboard with a Realtek onboard audio chip. Problem with outputs... just a line out.
- A set of Edifier S1000DB
- A pair of Sennheiser HDR175 wireless headphones.

From a discussion at another forum, I tested several thing and it seems that a huge problem is having the speakers connected via BT. There's no depth, dynamics or details. I don't have much choice now if I decide to go hardwire. I don't want to get on my knees and behind the computer everytime I want to switch from speakers to headphones.

So I need some sort of hardware to connect both speakers and headphones and avoid a BT connection. While at that, and since I'm willing to spend the money, these would be the features I would like to have.
- Some sort of physical switch from headphones to speakers
- Enhanced music quality
- Not spend a lot of money as I'm not seeking audiophile quality, nor do I have some great speakers for that.

I've looked into soundcards, external soundcards and DACs. DACs seem to always be the recommendation but I have no clue what to go for. I believe I don't need amps for the speakers but I'm not so sure with the headphones. Can you guys please point me to the right direction?

 

[Berwhale]

A Fiio E10K or K3 would do the job, but there's no switch between headphones and and line out (at least not on the K3) so you'd need to turn the speakers off when using headphones.

Or you could try a punt on something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/LiNKFOR-Co...s=dac+headphone+amp+usb&qid=1576522294&sr=8-4

You would need to connect it to your PC via SPDIF co-axial or TosLink.

 

[Vincent Kars]

How do you have the HDR175 connected?
Do you like the sound?

 

[Kutusov]

I was wondering how these work with both speakers and headphones connected... are both on or it switches to headphones when speakers are off? Either wouldn't be a problem and works fine with me.

No optical out on my motherbord so that Linkfor is not possible... Would something like this be ok or a better than the Fiio? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Decoder-Am...A9H252Z8AR0&psc=1&refRID=WEHHS785KA9H252Z8AR0

It has USB in and both RCA and optical out... my speakers take both of those. I think RCA is better though?

 

[Kutusov]

How do you have the HDR175 connected?
Do you like the sound?

Yes, very much so... but don't these convert digital to audio by themselves?

Edit: sorry, missed your question... they are connected to the PC on its line out

 

[Berwhale]

I was wondering how these work with both speakers and headphones connected... are both on or it switches to headphones when speakers are off? Either wouldn't be a problem and works fine with me.

No optical out on my motherbord so that Linkfor is not possible... Would something like this be ok or a better than the Fiio? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Decoder-Am...A9H252Z8AR0&psc=1&refRID=WEHHS785KA9H252Z8AR0

It has USB in and both RCA and optical out... my speakers take both of those. I think RCA is better though?

I think the D10 may work well, I would use the RCA to connect to your speaker and the optical to connect to your RS175.

 

[Kutusov]

I think the D10 may work well, I would use the RCA to connect to your speaker and the optical to connect to your RS175.

Oooh, wasn't even remembering about the optical in on the RS175s. Thanks!

 

[Berwhale]

Oooh, wasn't even remembering about the optical in on the RS175s. Thanks!

There's another bonus...

• Signal-to-noise ratio
  Analog input: typ. 85 dBA at 1 Vrms
  
  
• Signal-to-noise ratio
  Digital input: > 90 dBA

 

[Kutusov]

There's another bonus...

• Signal-to-noise ratio
  Analog input: typ. 85 dBA at 1 Vrms
  
  
• Signal-to-noise ratio
  Digital input: > 90 dBA

Many thanks Berwhale, I think that's me done then!

 

[ernestcarl]

The nice thing about those HDRs is that they transmit losslessly. Doesn't the the charging station already have a line-out? Why do you need to manually switch the wiring? Just double-checked and it's actually the older 180 (which I have) that has the actual line-outs -- btw, I have paired my single HD180 base with the HDR170 and HDR180 so I always have two options (closed or open-back depending on the particular use case) -- not sure if you can do the same with these newer models.

Yeah, you could just get a cheap DAC with multiple outputs, i.e. simultaneous digital and analog like the D10. That way, you would not need to use a manual switch or y-splitter cables.

 

[Kutusov]

The nice thing about those HDRs is that they transmit losslessly. Doesn't the the charging station already have a line-out? Why do you need to manually switch the wiring? Just double-checked and it's actually the older 180 (which I have) that has the actual line-outs -- btw, I have paired my single HD180 base with the HDR170 and HDR180 so I always have two options (closed or open-back depending on the particular use case) -- not sure if you can do the same with these newer models.

I bought my first pair several years ago and I don't remember if those had outputs. Bough another pair when those broke and no, there are no outputs on these.

I came to my folks home for the holidays and, having nothing to do, went and read and watched several things... Aaand that's a rabbithole. Edifiers 3000 Pro look so nice... And the Swans m300s although it seems I can't get them here in Europe importing them and paying over 30% more just in taxes. So Edifier money...

 

[ernestcarl]

I bought my first pair several years ago and I don't remember if those had outputs. Bough another pair when those broke and no, there are no outputs on these.

I came to my folks home for the holidays and, having nothing to do, went and read and watched several things... Aaand that's a rabbithole. Edifiers 3000 Pro look so nice... And the Swans m300s although it seems I can't get them here in Europe importing them and paying over 30% more just in taxes. So Edifier money...

The line outs on mine directly go to my O2 HP amplifier. Line input source is from an OL-DAC. Advantage here is that I can adjust my HP amp independently from the HDR's line-in source so each HP (wired and wireless) have independent and separate volume controls; one doesn't affect the other.

One of the reasons why I think the older version was actually better. I plan to upgrade eventually once the base stops working -- likely not anytime soon as I seldom use HPs now anyways.

With taxes, well, there are some things that can definitely be bought cheaper there as well over here in North America.

 

[Kutusov]

The line outs on mine directly go to my O2 HP amplifier. Line input source is from an OL-DAC. Advantage here is that I can adjust my HP amp independently from the HDR's line-in source so each HP (wired and wireless) have independent and separate volume controls; one doesn't affect the other.



With taxes, well, there are some things that can definitely be bought cheaper there as well over here in North America.

Oh, now that you posted that picture I recognizer that out... I'm not sure if mine have that or not, I'm away for the holidays. Maybe it was the old ones and I threw the base away...

Any suggestions for a good pair of simple but good speakers? The problem with the Edifiers is me paying for a lot of high-tech stuff I just don't see myself using. But no wires connecting them would be an advantage placing them on my living room which is a tough one, being long and narrow and cluttered with furniture that belongs to the landlord...

 

[ernestcarl]

I assume you want active speakers like your Edifiers? There's a lot out there... I wouldn't really know what to suggest out of the sea of options out there without a lot more detail of your needs, planned equipment chain, and budget.

Although, as for me, I'd always prefer to see detailed specs and measurements made readily available by the manufacturer -- as well as independent ones. Finally, a listening test in person in your room or at the audio store, or at least combing through several comparisons & reviews from credible sources. Read the warranty & return shipping policy etc...

If you aren't going to be using a sub(s), I'd probably get speakers with larger drivers -- you can always cut or reduce the bass if necessary.

With regards to wireless, some active speakers already have BT built in; others require you to add an external DAC + preamp volume control + wireless receiver -- some have it in an all-in-one unit. Personally, I'd go with an external device.

I use BT all the time but the quality simply is not on par with lossless transmition through wired physical cables or through some other wireless non-lossy means e.g. Audioengine D2 (performs best if transmitter and receiver are kept within the same room).

 

[Kutusov]

I assume you want active speakers like your Edifiers? There's a lot out there... I wouldn't really know what to suggest out of the sea of options out there without a lot more detail of your needs, planned equipment chain, and budget.

Although, as for me, I'd always prefer to see detailed specs and measurements made readily available by the manufacturer -- as well as independent ones. Finally, a listening test in person in your room or at the audio store, or at least combing through several comparisons & reviews from credible sources. Read the warranty & return shipping policy etc...

If you aren't going to be using a sub(s), I'd probably get speakers with larger drivers -- you can always cut or reduce the bass if necessary.

With regards to wireless, some active speakers already have BT built in; others require you to add an external DAC + preamp volume control + wireless receiver -- some have it in an all-in-one unit. Personally, I'd go with an external device.

I use BT all the time but the quality simply is not on par with lossless transmition through wired physical cables or through some other wireless non-lossy means e.g. Audioengine D2 (performs best if transmitter and receiver are kept within the same room).

 

[Kutusov]

Yes, I noticed a big difference between between my BT and wired. It's a fairly new computer (a little over 1 year old) so I'm assuming it's at least BT 4.0.

I wanted to keep things simple and uncluttered but keeping my options open. I'll be moving out of that flat in a few years and I always prefer to pay a bit more for something good that keeps me happy for longer. I think bigger drivers would be better because I use them more at low levels than deafening volumes. Oh, and no subwoofers, good 2.0 speakers would be my preferred choise. From what I've seen from reviews, both the Swan M300 or the Edifiers seem to fit my needs.

Speakers are not a priority right now, I would like to first see what I can do with my S1000. The Topping d10 dac seems like a good and needed improvement, if nothing else for the connectivity options. Stands would also be nice. But nice speakers that paly well at low volumes would be something I would look into very quickly if I don't hear drastic improvements (which I bet I won't hear... )

 

[ernestcarl]

Yes, I noticed a big difference between between my BT and wired. It's a fairly new computer (a little over 1 year old) so I'm assuming it's at least BT 4.0.

I wanted to keep things simple and uncluttered but keeping my options open. I'll be moving out of that flat in a few years and I always prefer to pay a bit more for something good that keeps me happy for longer. I think bigger drivers would be better because I use them more at low levels than deafening volumes. Oh, and no subwoofers, good 2.0 speakers would be my preferred choise. From what I've seen from reviews, both the Swan M300 or the Edifiers seem to fit my needs.

Speakers are not a priority right now, I would like to first see what I can do with my S1000. The Topping d10 dac seems like a good and needed improvement, if nothing else for the connectivity options. Stands would also be nice. But nice speakers that paly well at low volumes would be something I would look into very quickly if I don't hear drastic improvements (which I bet I won't hear... )

Before upgrading, I suggest you make sure you've squeezed out everything you can from those speakers by getting a calibrated measurement microphone and applying DSP and PEQ for frequency correction -- as well as a guide and reference for how you should place your speakers optimally at their best. I ALWAYS use some form of DSP correction, tone controls, and/or enhancements for most of my headphones and speakers.

Same with MCH audio and video content. While most content do well played flat in my relatively acoustically dry listening space, a few pieces or movie tracks are hugely improved with some boost in the bass, vocal region for clarity, and some added artificial reverb to simulate a larger space. Instead of having a dozen different speakers in the same room to swap around (with much effort and stress to the body and wallet) just to suit my needs and mood at the moment, with poweful and flexible DSP, relative satisfaction can be had with much less effort.

 

[Kutusov]

Something I never heard before but knew some speakers had that... Will look into it! Many thanks!!!

 

[Objectivist01]

With all respect these are exotic audio brands whihc arent just for doing the audio duty but somethibg like an ornament to a luxury villa or so. If they measure good enough and i have money i may be happy to have something like this to appreciate the craftmanship. I like bang and olufsen for their looks and aesthetics, but soundwise NO. When money is no objective there is nothing wrong in having devices like this if you have money.

 

[dasdoing]

- Some random HP motherboard with a Realtek onboard audio chip. Problem with outputs... just a line out.

it's possible you have a S/PDIF conector diretcly on the board. check manual.
this could be used for wired digital connection to the speakers.
but I guess the sound you don't like is from the internal DAC of the speakers*, so it would sound the same

*bluetooth compression shouldn't be audible