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Kali IN 5 v2 - noise, humming, hiss etc.

Scumgrief

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2025
Messages
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Location
Poland, Łódź
Hi!
I recently bought the Kali IN5 v2 monitors and, to be honest, they’re fantastic. The problem is, I can’t really get them to perform at their best. Let me start from the beginning.

The speakers are set up next to my PC (on stands), connected via RCA (I know, I know – mortal sin) to a Fiio K7. I’m aware that XLR is basically a must for these monitors, but I was hoping to enjoy them for a few weeks before calmly choosing a balanced DAC.

Unfortunately, that didn’t happen.
  1. The noise level is HUGE. I can’t set the Kali gain to 0 because the hiss is audible from the next room.
  2. Whenever I launch anything somewhat intense on the PC (new Indiana Jones game), the speaker starts humming so loudly you can hear it from two rooms away. With the doors closed.
It’s driving me absolutely insane. So, my question is: will a balanced DAC solve these issues? Or do I need to consider something else—maybe replace more components, pay attention to power strips, PC placement, or other parts of the setup? I’ve been reading this forum for two days straight, and I get the theory of sound, but once electricity comes into play, I’m lost.

Right now, I’m considering the Topping D70 Pro Octo or the DacMagic 200M — or just giving up entirely, selling the Kalis, and switching to regular consumer speakers… which I really don’t want to do deep down. I have a feeling the Kalis will bring me a lot of joy once I get them sorted out.

Has anyone here been in a similar situation and could help me out with some advice, materials, or links—anything that might give me hope? ;)
 
I have those as my office speakers and like them a lot. When connected with RCA though you need to turn the volume nob on the back way down, until I can't hear a hiss from my listening position (about 1.2 meter away). They still play easily loud enough that way (output from the Wiim Pro Plus), so I don't see a problem there, does that not work for you?

Since connecting them via XLR form my Headphone-Amp (Topping A70 Pro) I have set the volume to 0 dB on the back of the Kalis and it works without any audible hum.
But as i said it worked ok with RCA too, with adjusting the gain down.
 
I have those as my office speakers and like them a lot. When connected with RCA though you need to turn the volume nob on the back way down, until I can't hear a hiss from my listening position (about 1.2 meter away). They still play easily loud enough that way (output from the Wiim Pro Plus), so I don't see a problem there, does that not work for you?

Since connecting them via XLR form my Headphone-Amp (Topping A70 Pro) I have set the volume to 0 dB on the back of the Kalis and it works without any audible hum.
But as i said it worked ok with RCA too, with adjusting the gain down.
Currently, I have it set up this way, but as soon as I launch any heavier application on my PC (my hardware is powerful, so it draws a large amount of power), a very distinct and loud "buzzing" appears. I assume I can reduce the hiss by using a balanced DAC and good XLR cables, but the buzzing? Dunno.
 
Can you please list/show the entire connection chain from your PC to the speakers? Are you connected from the PC to the Fiio via USB? RCA? Given the buzzing appears when you start up a game, it seems like noise from the GPU might be the culprit. Does your PC have an optical SPDIF out? Electrically isolating the PC from your Fiio might do the trick.

I honestly doubt using balanced connections between the Fiio and the speakers will make any difference, unless your interconnects are really long or you're having some serious RF emissions coming out of your PC.
 
Can you please list/show the entire connection chain from your PC to the speakers? Are you connected from the PC to the Fiio via USB? RCA? Given the buzzing appears when you start up a game, it seems like noise from the GPU might be the culprit. Does your PC have an optical SPDIF out? Electrically isolating the PC from your Fiio might do the trick.

I honestly doubt using balanced connections between the Fiio and the speakers will make any difference, unless your interconnects are really long or you're having some serious RF emissions coming out of your PC.
PC is connected to the Fiio with a USB cable, and from the Fiio, two RCA cables go to the speakers. Both the speakers and the DAC are plugged into a power strip, but it's on a different outlet than the PC. Unfortunately, my PC doesn’t have SPDIF.

Eventually, the Fiio K7 will be dedicated strictly to headphone use. I’d like to get a balanced DAC for the Kalis, but to be honest, if I spend a lot of money and the problem still isn’t solved… well, I really wouldn’t want that. ;)
 
Right, wouldn't want you to spend a bunch of money on a fancy DAC with balanced output and then you have the same issue.

You might consider trying a USB to TOSLINK adapter to see if it resolves the issue, such as this one. Pretty cheap way to help narrow down the issue.

Edit: Should also mention to make sure you purchase a TOSLINK cable at the same time as the adapter, if you don't already have one laying around.
 
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Right, wouldn't want you to spend a bunch of money on a fancy DAC with balanced output and then you have the same issue.

You might consider trying a USB to TOSLINK adapter to see if it resolves the issue, such as this one. Pretty cheap way to help narrow down the issue.
This.

I'm going to bet this will kill all (or almost all) the noise.
 
Right now, I’m considering the Topping D70 Pro Octo or the DacMagic 200M
Bit overdressed if you ask me. If you're not drowning in cash, you can get a basic audio interface or DAC/DAC-amp with balanced output for less than half the price that should be entirely adequate. The classic Behringer HD400 with RCA to 1/4" TS and TRS to XLRm cables is a good bit cheaper still, probably around 40 US$/€. (If you want to recruit your onboard audio instead, swap the RCA to TS cables for a 3.5 mm stereo to 2x 1/4" TS for obvious reasons.)

Also, loosen and retorque your PC's power supply screws a few times and/or swap them for classic silvery metal ones, it may work wonders bringing the ground potential in line.
 
Thanks so much for all the advice—I’m on it! In the meantime, I decided to do a quick test: I ran a power extension cord from another room and plugged my power strip into that outlet, just to see if a different circuit would make a difference.

The humming disappeared, and the hiss is slightly lower (which I can manage separately).
 
Thanks so much for all the advice—I’m on it! In the meantime, I decided to do a quick test: I ran a power extension cord from another room and plugged my power strip into that outlet, just to see if a different circuit would make a difference.

The humming disappeared, and the hiss is slightly lower (which I can manage separately).
If you are doing that you might get a further improvement if you arrange for the PC/audio system to be plugged into the same power strip as both the speakers.
 
If you are doing that you might get a further improvement if you arrange for the PC/audio system to be plugged into the same power strip as both the speakers.
I just tried that a moment ago—made things even worse, because I could literally hear the Chrome window being dragged around through the speakers. I’m guessing the electrical wiring in my apartment is just poorly done (I’m renting for a few more months before I move into my own place). The charm of Polish apartment blocks built in the late ’90s, I suppose.
 
Hello everyone,

I’m back with an update—hopefully my last :p —and one that might help someone else facing the same issue. In the end, I tried two solutions at once, slightly different from what you suggested, although all the advice above is absolutely great and worth checking out. So if you’ve just stumbled on this thread, be sure to read through the steps shared by other forum members—they’re really valuable!

What did I do?

  1. I changed the outlet where my power strip is plugged in. That completely eliminated the humming and any interference from the computer. Additionally, I modified the power strip with slightly better cables. Right now, the power strip has these devices connected: two Kali IN5, a Fiio K7, and a Topping DAC. Yes…
  2. After solving the hum issue, I concluded that the hiss was due to the Fiio’s RCA connection. I’d been wanting to upgrade my DAC for a while, so—well, you know how it is—I just needed an excuse. The D70 Pro Octo arrived this morning, and I’m absolutely stunned.
    • a) XLR gets the job done—zero hiss.
    • b) The DAC is unbelievable compared to the K7. The soundstage, bass, and warmth are on a whole different level. Most importantly, the music finally feels alive. Steely Dan’s Aja, which used to sound dry and flat, now has me swaying in my chair. People often say that a DAC doesn’t make that much of a difference; based on what I’m hearing, I’d beg to differ, though I respect other opinions.
  3. I replaced the power cables for both the speakers and the DAC with much higher-quality plugs and cables.
  4. As before, the entire setup is connected to the DAC via XLR. The hiss has been reduced drastically—I have to be right next to the Kalis to hear any hiss at all now.
I’m not sure if there’s anything else I can add, but above all, I wanted to thank you all for your support. I posted about my problem on a Polish forum, but it ended up with people arguing back and forth over the advice.

Now I see why this forum has such a great reputation. Thanks again!
 
People often say that a DAC doesn’t make that much of a difference; based on what I’m hearing, I’d beg to differ, though I respect other opinions.
If you've not compared blind and level matched, the overwhelmingly likely reason for the difference you hear is difference in level, or plain old perceptive bias.

But congrats on eliminating the noise issue. Noise rejection is what balanced signalling is for, so that is the correct solution. The power cables will have made zero difference.
 
Had a similar problem with my SMSL A100 (totally different setup, but it includes a DAC connected via USB). Fixed it with an optical isolator (This one: Huerous Adum3160 Digital Signal Audio Storm USB to USB Digital Isolator). This specific one is currently unavailable at Amazon, but I only chose it because it happened to be the cheapest available option. A similar optical isolator will do the trick, no doubt.
 
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