Well, this is why I asked if OP can reprogram the DSP. If so, that could be a really fun project with good results. If not... arms too short, legs too long, collar too tight, waist too narrow, shoulders too broad... and stuck wearing it.Unless you are an experienced tailor.
I have no idea how this rely is supposed to solve any of the issues with the LS60 board Frankensteined into your design?
IMHO, if you have to ask, you can't afford it. It's a cool solution, but you'll also need a CAD design where you'll provide the exact shape which will act as an adapter for attaching the cylinder to the driver, so ... Again, if you have to ask any question about the process, you can likely forget it, because not only is it going to be quite expensive for them to print and ship 18 adapters, 16 for the woofers and 2 for the coaxials, you'll also need to provide the 3D models to whatever company you'll be using. You're probably talking quite a few hundred bucks, maybe close to $1000, for plastic? (50$ per part?) If you want metal, multiply by X?
If you haven't done so already, check your design with some speaker design software (WinISD is FREE). ...More or bigger woofers in a "small" sealed box can end-up reducing bass. Although you can overcome that with EQ/DSP and amplifier power. Or, you may find that a port works better with your chosen speakers and cabinet size.
Ok yeah if he's going to machine the cylinder using a CNC or whatnot sure, I had imaged he had cylinders available and would cut holes using hand tools lol
It will vary a lot. If a friend of mine came to me and asked for help with this, and gave me exact dimensions, I would not charge them very much to whip up these rings and print them. Like maybe $100 total.IMHO, if you have to ask, you can't afford it. It's a cool solution, but you'll also need a CAD design where you'll provide the exact shape which will act as an adapter for attaching the cylinder to the driver, so ... Again, if you have to ask any question about the process, you can likely forget it, because not only is it going to be quite expensive for them to print and ship 18 adapters, 16 for the woofers and 2 for the coaxials, you'll also need to provide the 3D models to whatever company you'll be using. You're probably talking quite a few hundred bucks, maybe close to $1000, for plastic? (50$ per part?) If you want metal, multiply by X?
And then, you still haven't attached those plastic adapters to the cylinder in some fashion, and since it's a sealed cabinet, well, it all needs to be sealed. The parts also need to be strong enough, so you'll have to to be careful about the exact plastic, the fill, etc.,
I'm sure you could find someone or some company to design the CADs for you, you'll likely have to pay a couple thousand dollars for that service also.
So yeah, 100% forget about that.
It looks very cool, but yes some barriers to implementation. I'll third the notion that you need a sub-enclosure for that midwoofer/tweeter. How big, good question. What diameter is that mid/tweet?
Rings? It would be quite a bit more complex though than just rings, since you're going from curve to flat... Either the front of the drivers would stick out a bit like for Perlisten speakers (in which case almost worth printing an entire front baffle?), or like the original post drawing the drivers would be inside the cabinet or partially inside & outside, in which case you'd want a smooth transition between woofer and baffle, which would be relatively easy using CNC, depending on the thickness of the aluminum...
This is true, IME if you design something yourself it rarely fits on the first try. This is why DIY for something like this is vastly better than contracting it out. "Rapid prototyping" is not just a buzzword sometimes.
I have CNC, in order to reduce the splicing between the plates, so I consider using round tubes for machining, of course I don't have any box design foundation, maybe I will implement this plan in another six months
Maybe I can learn some principles about boxes in this project, and DIY can also bring me joyThis is true, IME if you design something yourself it rarely fits on the first try. This is why DIY for something like this is vastly better than contracting it out. "Rapid prototyping" is not just a buzzword sometimes.
As for what I'd print for this project... assuming they can CNC a flat attachment point for the driver baskets, you'd just need a facing ring with a curved profile, to make the baffle smooth. For that all you need is:
As for acoustic properties... I would try to design the whole cabinet in such a way that you're not depending on the acoustic performance of PETG or PLA.
- Radius of the overall enclousure
- Diameter of the cutout the ring fits into
- Diameter of the cutout for the driver itself
- Measurements for whatever attachment points you put on the back.
- e: and depth of the cutout
The look is best managed with sanding, wood filler, sanding, filler primer, sanding, then paint. And maybe repeat a couple of those fill/sand steps.
And sound weird as well if you keep ignoring the elephants in the room...He's going to look weird
Wow that is nuts, looking at the left pic, almost looks like it's 2 inch thick aluminum...! How much would just 5 feet of that weigh and cost?!
Yep that would be the way! I misunderstood 'rings'. I thought the cylinders would have a reasonable thickness of something like a quarter inch or less... The 3D printing stuff started off on how you would attach the drivers to the cylinder, so as there likely wouldn't have been been enough material to remove it would have required some sort of adapter/bracket system.
I choose a round tube with a diameter of 240mm and a thickness of 20mm, and the price of such a material is $200 for me.Wow that is nuts, looking at the left pic, almost looks like it's 2 inch thick aluminum...! How much would just 5 feet of that weigh and cost?!
the weight of the 5-foot long aluminum cylinder with a 2-inch thick wall and a 240mm outer diameter would be approximately 872.07 lbs.
Cost just for raw alu ~$1000
Yep that would be the way! I misunderstood 'rings'. I thought the cylinders would have a reasonable thickness of something like a quarter inch or less... The 3D printing stuff started off on how you would attach the drivers to the cylinder, so as there likely wouldn't have been been enough material to remove it would have required some sort of adapter/bracket system.
But with 2 inch thick alu there's likely plenty of material to remove with CNC as to create a flat front baffle for the drivers and have plenty of thickness left, so create similar front baffle like https://ca.kef.com/products/muon and yep, just CNC the front baffle as to directly integrate the drivers flush!
Man, 1 ton per speaker... Hurts my back and floor just thinking about it.
