can you please help me make my speakers sound the way they are intended?

[mhd]

i recently bought a pair of kali in5s, i put them on my pc desk but the bass became soo peaky and boomy so i ordered a pair of stands for it( to avoid bass reflecting from desk etc...). i put them 1 meter away from the wall and on the corners of room, around 1.2 meters apart.
the stands made the sound better but i still have a huge peak about 6 to 7 db from 120hz to 140 hz, and a dip on 55hz to 70hz and overall uneven peaks/dips on bass( found out by tone generator and songs i played)
so how can i measure the speakers to see the frequency response? can you help me? should i buy a microphone? what do i need to buy?
what do you suggest to make the fr flat(with slight downward slope) the way the speakers meant to sound specially on 400hz and below(the main problem here).
i prefer not correct the room tbh but eq the speakers, but maybe you have better suggestions for me.
thank you for helping me here.

 

[IAtaman]

Hell and welcome

Check out this video which answers almost all of your questions:

 

[mhd]

Hell and welcome

Check out this video which answers almost all of your questions:

Thank you very much, hope it solves my problems!

 

[mhd]

Hell and welcome

Check out this video which answers almost all of your questions:

we have other brands of mic calibration here, but unfortunately umik is not available. do other brands work with rew?

 

[Doodski]

umik

UMIK-1

The UMIK-1 is an omni-directional USB measurement calibrated microphone providing Plug & Play acoustic measurement. From speaker & room acoustic measurement to recording, this microphone provides low noise and accurate results you can rely on.

www.minidsp.com

 

[IAtaman]

we have other brands of mic calibration here, but unfortunately umik is not available. do other brands work with rew?

It is not so much a matter of whether or not it will work with REW (all mics will work with REW) it is more a matter of is it a reliable measurement mic. Dayton Audio has measurements mics that are good as well and come with calibration data. Behringer has too but I have no experiece with them.

 

[ozzy9832001]

i recently bought a pair of kali in5s, i put them on my pc desk but the bass became soo peaky and boomy so i ordered a pair of stands for it( to avoid bass reflecting from desk etc...). i put them 1 meter away from the wall and on the corners of room, around 1.2 meters apart.
the stands made the sound better but i still have a huge peak about 6 to 7 db from 120hz to 140 hz, and a dip on 55hz to 70hz and overall uneven peaks/dips on bass( found out by tone generator and songs i played)
so how can i measure the speakers to see the frequency response? can you help me? should i buy a microphone? what do i need to buy?
what do you suggest to make the fr flat(with slight downward slope) the way the speakers meant to sound specially on 400hz and below(the main problem here).
i prefer not correct the room tbh but eq the speakers, but maybe you have better suggestions for me.
thank you for helping me here.

Peaks and Dips line up with standard standing waves for a room somewhere around 10ftx12ftx8ft?

If you have a choice between close to the front wall or a corner, then take the front wall. Speakers in corners will have increased boundary gain. 2ft minimum away from the corner if it can be avoided.

You have a few choices -- use a tone generator and set it for 50hz and walk around the room. See where it's the loudest. Place a piece of tape or paper (I used different colored sticky notes). Repeat for 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120, 130, 140. This should clear most of your modal frequencies unless you have a room dimension shorter than 8ft. Make sure you are at seating height when you do this as some frequencies are vertical in their modes not horizonal.

For some problems, treatment is the only solution. As sound builds up in the room and combines constructively, no EQ is going to make it right. It will for that volume but if you lower the volume it will attenuate too much and if you increase it it will not attenuate enough. In these cases the only thing to do is eliminate the problem frequency so that when they combine it's just normal summation.

Add some furniture, thick carpet, curtains, etc to help with some minor absorption. Even removing the slap echo can help.

 

[flipflop]

Hell and welcome

Check out this video which answers almost all of your questions:

This video contains a lot of misinformation and bad advice. I've done my best to list it all below.
Due to Brandolini's law I won't be elaborating on any of the points and I probably won't be responding to replies to this post either.

In the tutorial he...

• recommends taking measurements at a level that's borderline too low (75 dB).
• insinuates that Var smoothing represents "how we as humans perceive [the frequency response]".
• insinuates that the in-room frequency response above the transition frequency represents what is heard.
• recommends making 7 static microphone measurements instead of a more accurate and less time consuming moving microphone measurement.
• claims that "before we can start to EQ anything, we have to set up our house curve".
• claims the desired frequency response at the listening position is achieved by equalizing the speakers to an in-room target curve.
• justifies equalizing speakers to an in-room target curve by misinterpreting Harman research.
• insinuates that, unlike dips, cutting peaks will not reduce the "overall volume".
• shows his system with the speakers too close to the wall, the listening position too close to the speakers, and the speakers at an incorrect height.

 

[Chazz6]

You can get into elaborate room measurements. Or you can do trial-and-error equalization. For the latter, have you found a couple of frequency response curves for those speakers posted around the Web? They will suggest a starting equalization curve.

I did this for Focal Aria 906's. The RME ADI-FS 2 DAC is a key link in the chain. Build an equalization curve, listen to the result, save the curve in the RME memory, then modify the curve and listen again. Several rounds of this procedure gave me better sound (my subjective judgment).

 

[kolestonin]

This video contains a lot of misinformation and bad advice. I've done my best to list it all below.
Due to Brandolini's law I won't be elaborating on any of the points and I probably won't be responding to replies to this post either.

In the tutorial he...

• recommends taking measurements at a level that's borderline too low (75 dB).
• insinuates that Var smoothing represents "how we as humans perceive [the frequency response]".
• insinuates that the in-room frequency response above the transition frequency represents what is heard.
• recommends making 7 static microphone measurements instead of a more accurate and less time consuming moving microphone measurement.
• claims that "before we can start to EQ anything, we have to set up our house curve".
• claims the desired frequency response at the listening position is achieved by equalizing the speakers to an in-room target curve.
• justifies equalizing speakers to an in-room target curve by misinterpreting Harman research.
• insinuates that, unlike dips, cutting peaks will not reduce the "overall volume".
• shows his system with the speakers too close to the wall, the listening position too close to the speakers, and the speakers at an incorrect height.

I saw you said you will not reply but I do not want to debate nor comment your points.

I would just like to ask if you can suggest another online tutorial/guide for REW measurements.

Thanks in advance

 

[flipflop]

I saw you said you will not reply but I do not want to debate nor comment your points.

I would just like to ask if you can suggest another online tutorial/guide for REW measurements.

Thanks in advance

 

[DVDdoug]

A couple of quick notes -

so i ordered a pair of stands for it

At 100Hz the wavelength is about 10-feet* and they get longer the lower you go so putting the speaker on stands won't do much for the bass.

But, putting the speaker in a corner will boost the bass.



* "Things happen" at 1/2 wavelength too.

 

[LTig]

Putting the speakers higher on a stand on a desk reduces booming upper bass due to reflections on the desk top. IME it's a must.

Regarding microphones: To find dips and peaks in the region below Schroedinger Schroeder (EDIT: corrected) most decent mics will do a good job. I own both the UMIK-1 and the Behringer ECM8000 and they both work perfect for this kind of job.

 

[Jimbob54]

Schroedinger

If you take the cat out of the room does the FR change only if you are listening?

 

[LTig]

If you take the cat out of the room does the FR change only if you are listening?

Oops - corrected.

 

[Chazz6]

Putting the speakers higher on a stand on a desk reduces booming upper bass due to reflections on the desk top. IME it's a must.

You can also turn the speakers upside down.

 

[Doodski]

You can also turn the speakers upside down.

That creates issues at the same time as it partially solves another.

 

[Chazz6]

That creates issues at the same time as it partially solves another.

I must put my speakers on a shelf about 2m high, while I sit. Upside down works for me. What am I missing?

 

[Doodski]

I must put my speakers on a shelf about 2m high, while I sit. Upside down works for me. What am I missing?

You answered a comment that was related to placing speakers on the desktop and not a shelf. Different situations.>

"Putting the speakers higher on a stand on a desk reduces booming upper bass due to reflections on the desk top. IME it's a must.

 

[Chrispy]

Maybe I missed it, but just what is the sound intended by these speakers? Why is it so hard to manipulate that sound in your case?