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Best price/performance subwoofer amp?

tifune

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I found an old car subwoofer in my basement, wondering if anyone can recommend a decent amp for it? I'll be using it in my home office with LSR305's so it doesn't need to be fancy. ATM, this is the best option I can find:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=31030

95dB SNR seems reasonable given the low quality of the sub itself (20 year old JL Audio 12" sealed). But, given I keep all my gear literally until it dies I'm not opposed to sepnding a little more if anyone has a better suggestion re: price:performance. Thanks!
 

Speedskater

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Don't know how much power you are looking for but check-out the low budget semi-pro audio Class 'D' amps.
With a sub-woofer, a budget Class "D"s high frequency response doesn't matter.
 

Mocs123

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The Behringer NX1000D is probably what you're looking for. The Behringer NX series pro amps are what most of the DIY sub builders use, specifically the D series for the built in DSP. The Crowns are probably a little better amp, but can't compete with Behringer for watt/$. If you want to build a awesome inexpensive DIY sub, check out the V.B.S.S. Builds that use the Dayton Audio PA460 driver. They don't dig well below 15Hz or so, but they have a ton of bang for the buck!

AVSForum has a very active DIY forum if you dare go down that rabbit hole. You'd soon find yourself building a 24"!
 

FrantzM

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Don't know how much power you are looking for but check-out the low budget semi-pro audio Class 'D' amps.
With a sub-woofer, a budget Class "D"s high frequency response doesn't matter.
The Behringer NX1000D is probably what you're looking for. The Behringer NX series pro amps are what most of the DIY sub builders use, specifically the D series for the built in DSP. The Crowns are probably a little better amp, but can't compete with Behringer for watt/$. If you want to build a awesome inexpensive DIY sub, check out the V.B.S.S. Builds that use the Dayton Audio PA460 driver. They don't dig well below 15Hz or so, but they have a ton of bang for the buck!

AVSForum has a very active DIY forum if you dare go down that rabbit hole. You'd soon find yourself building a 24"!
+1
 
OP
T

tifune

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The Behringer NX1000D is probably what you're looking for. The Behringer NX series pro amps are what most of the DIY sub builders use, specifically the D series for the built in DSP. The Crowns are probably a little better amp, but can't compete with Behringer for watt/$. If you want to build a awesome inexpensive DIY sub, check out the V.B.S.S. Builds that use the Dayton Audio PA460 driver. They don't dig well below 15Hz or so, but they have a ton of bang for the buck!

This looks great, thanks! I might just grab the non-DSP version, this will be connected exclusively to a PC so there's a lot of software EQ options available. Not sure if there's any software phase adjustment, though. Never had to dig into that before... I'll look at the Crown too since I'm a pro-level refurb/open box hunter and 1000W is absolutely adequate, probably overkill.

when I actually used this in my Jeep I only had a 300x1 and my lady friends claimed it rumbled enough to "feel quite pleasant." (It sat in between the front seats, JL Stealthbox in a Wrangler)
 

Prana Ferox

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Used iNukes are the value leaders for subs. I would still recommend getting a DSP model if you can. For any Behringer assume you want to mod the fan (easy) as otherwise it can be obnoxious.

The very bottom level Crown (XLS1000 / 1002) has poorer SNR than a 150x or higher, although that may not matter with a sub. Crown XLS isn't anywhere near the Behringer DSP.

If you're a pro referb guy, you can use -any- pro amp (I like the old Yamahas) and optionally a Behringer DCX2496 for DSP. I think my DCX was $100.

JL made good drivers but a sealed car cabinet may be assuming a lot of cabin gain.
 
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tifune

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8 hours remaining on 300W Crown as posted in Master Deals.

Thanks for that; is such high distortion typically considered acceptable in subs? I know low frequencies arent as affected by THD but this seems really high.

Some time ago I saw a video, it was either Audioholics or Rocky Mountain, suggesting that THD in subs could hit 10% before the casual listener noticed but as someone coming from a 2 channel background that's a bit hard to swallow. I know I shouldn't expect miracles in my use case, but just broadly speaking does that seem accurate?
 

andreasmaaan

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Thanks for that; is such high distortion typically considered acceptable in subs? I know low frequencies arent as affected by THD but this seems really high.

Some time ago I saw a video, it was either Audioholics or Rocky Mountain, suggesting that THD in subs could hit 10% before the casual listener noticed but as someone coming from a 2 channel background that's a bit hard to swallow. I know I shouldn't expect miracles in my use case, but just broadly speaking does that seem accurate?

There's obviously no single, absolutely correct answer to the question "how much distortion is audible?", but it's definitely the case that nonlinear distortion below a couple of hundred Hertz is far less audible than distortion higher in frequency.

Figures like 10% don't mean much, because what matters is the frequency of the distortion relative to the fundamental, and the absolute level at the listening position. Having said that, I would imagine 10%, unless particularly pathological, would be at least very difficult to hear at moderate listening levels in the 20-80Hz range.

In any case, I'd find it very hard to believe any distortion of any kind below 1% would be audible to anyone below 80Hz, which would place this amp squarely in the safe category for sub duties.

If you want to find out for yourself, you could try to comparing a distorted signal with an undistorted signal to find out what's audible to you, with something like this piece of software, using and a pair of headphones that you know is capable of reproducing low frequencies.

Play a WAV file through the software, set a low-pass crossover at 80-ish Hz, and then adjust the slider to give you your desired % THD/IMD (you could start with 10% or 20% and work your way down). Obviously, you'll only be hearing the bass (+distortion) in this case, so if you can't hear distortion under these circumstances, you won't be able to hear it when the rest of the signal is also present (the more signal present, the more any distortion will be masked).

If you think you can hear 0.5% distortion, the software allows you to blind test yourself to make sure you're not imagining it (NB: it's important to have extremely low latency with this particular program, otherwise the brief gap in playback will give it away).
 
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