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Anyone know what this connector model is? (Hypex NC500MP signal harness) Ghent Audio

I have seen these type of connectors used on car audio head units.
Here is a image of it so peeps don't have to switch windows.
Screenshot 2024-05-21 101951.png
 
morethinkingcapacityneede said:
Thanks! It looks very similar to this one: https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/hirose-electric-co-ltd/HIF3BA-16D-2-54C-63/12758531, but it is pricey.

This 10P version, https://ghentaudio.com/products/psc-18, is available for $0.50, whereas the Hirose version, https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Hirose-Connector/HIF3BA-10D-2.54C63?qs=vmHwEFxEFR/aj%2BANZqo%2BIA==, is still ~2$, seems the Ghent Audio connector is a cheaper version.
Click to expand...
Good score @morethinkingcapacityneede. I never use Digikey so I am not really aware of what they offer but you nail'd it!... Nicely done.
 
It is a custom IDC-style connector with special crimp connectors that requires a dedicated crimp tool. Whereas the normal connector is made for ribbon cable, this connector allows larger diameter wire to be used with the Hypex MP series. While the pre-built Ghent seems pricey, it is a solid approach for a a hobbyist. Unless you build more than a few amps, it is likely more expensive to build these cables yourself.

Due to the stress this connector puts on the socket, it really needs to be secured with hot glue or something comparable. I found making consistent crimps to be very frustrating. The last couple of MP amps I built used the eval boards. A bit more expensive but comes with the right set of cables AND nice access to the signals.
 
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So, I'm building four amps since I have four modules. So £16.60 ends up being pricey for 5 cables :| I wish I could find a cheaper version
 
morethinkingcapacityneede said:
So, I'm building four amps since I have four modules. So £16.60 ends up being pricey for 5 cables :| I wish I could find a cheaper version
Click to expand...

Unless you can get comparable quality, this is the wrong place to skimp. The one connector has the input connections and is critical to getting optimum sound quality. Reliable jumper connection is important on the other connector so the amp powers on consistently.
 
Rick Sykora said:
Unless you can get comparable quality, this is the wrong place to skimp. The one connector has the input connections and is critical to getting optimum sound quality. Reliable jumper connection is important on the other connector so the amp powers on consistently.
Click to expand...
I can imagine what the amp output would be if one of the connections went wonky and caused a ground hum at 60 Hz that would be very loud... You are totally correct on this is not the place to scrimp. :D
 
Back in the day when we wanted reliable, long term connections to the inputs of a power amplifier, we used this magic stuff called solder.

Unlatched box headers for input connections is a continuing and odd decision by Hypex, but I guess they know they need to be plug and play for the inevitable board swaps...
 
Rick Sykora said:
Unless you can get comparable quality, this is the wrong place to skimp. The one connector has the input connections and is critical to getting optimum sound quality. Reliable jumper connection is important on the other connector so the amp powers on consistently.
Click to expand...
I agree with you there. Kind of why I’m even considering these connectors rather than the stock Hypex IDC style ones https://www.hypex.nl/products/accessories/connection-materials/cable-set-ncxxxmp ( as you already said, can choose to have bigger wire gauge even though practically it doesn’t probably matter).
 
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restorer-john said:
Back in the day when we wanted reliable, long term connections to the inputs of a power amplifier, we used this magic stuff called solder.

Unlatched box headers for input connections is a continuing and odd decision by Hypex, but I guess they know they need to be plug and play for the inevitable board swaps...
Click to expand...
From a system integration point of view/assembly ease point of view, a connector makes sense. Like every engineering decision, it’s a compromise.
 
Thanks. However, I've made my own board with the XLR and RCA inputs, and some signal sense circuity, over-temp protection, etc.. I could replace the box header connector on my board with solder points, but I'd rather have a connector at this stage. Any reason (i.e. measurable effect) not to go with an flat ribbon cable and true IDC connectors? Both cheap as anything.
 
morethinkingcapacityneede said:
Thanks! It looks very similar to this one: https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/hirose-electric-co-ltd/HIF3BA-16D-2-54C-63/12758531, but it is pricey.

This 10P version, https://ghentaudio.com/products/psc-18, is available for $0.50, whereas the Hirose version, https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Hirose-Connector/HIF3BA-10D-2.54C63?qs=vmHwEFxEFR/aj%2BANZqo%2BIA==, is still ~2$, seems the Ghent Audio connector is a cheaper version.
Click to expand...
You can probably simply take precision socket strips with a 2.54mm pitch, double rows, cut them to length and solder the cables on.
Just make sure you can't insert the plug the wrong way round.
Alternatively, there are various 2.54mm female connectors with crimp connections that also fit, e.g. Dupont and others, search for "2.54mm pitch crimp".

I got the common crimp contacts for 1.27 - 5mm individually and then got different types of housings (TME.eu and aliexpress). Much cheaper and the uniform pitch dimension can be adjusted to the plastic housing with a knife or a turned down soldering iron with a discarded tip.
Alternatively, such connector housings can also be printed easily.
 
morethinkingcapacityneede said:
Thanks. However, I've made my own board with the XLR and RCA inputs, and some signal sense circuity, over-temp protection, etc.. I could replace the box header connector on my board with solder points, but I'd rather have a connector at this stage. Any reason (i.e. measurable effect) not to go with an flat ribbon cable and true IDC connectors? Both cheap as anything.
Click to expand...

The ribbon cable has measured well and retention is less of an issue too. As John mentioned, would have preferred a locking connector on the board, but is why I suggest hot glue or something to keep it seated. Since hot glue is more permanent, I use a bead of butyl rubber on each end. If later I need to access, it can be removed cleanly as does not harden like glue tends to do.
 
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Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I ended up contacting GhentAudio, and Ghent was willing to sell me the connector and full set of crimp contacts for $1.7 per unit. $7 postage. Now I need to figure out what wire to use for the cable? Is Mogami W2549 the best option? Is there a good alternative?
 
Maybe @Buckeye Amps has some tips?

As I mentioned, I found it frustrating to get the crimps to seat consistently. Any decent mic cable will do. Talent or something with a flexible jacket is easier to work. I found Mogami to be less flexible than others and that affects how readily it bends and can result in more stress on the connection. You will need to be precise about how much insulation is stripped as the jacketed wire may not fit well in the connector and can also keep the crimp from locking in tightly. Good luck!
 
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Wish I would have seen this earlier as I have a bunch of those left over from my older build models.
 
Rick Sykora said:
Maybe @Buckeye Amps has some tips?

As I mentioned, I found it frustrating to get the crimps to seat consistently. Any decent mic cable will do. Talent or something with a flexible jacket is easier to work. I found Mogami to be less flexible than others and that affects how readily it bends and can result more stress on the connection. You will need to be precise about how much insulation is stripped as the jacketed wire may not fit well in the connector and can also keep the crimp from locking in tightly. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Thanks, that's helpful. I will start looking around for what cables are available.
 
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