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Anyone know how to generate a 12V trigger where none is provided?

Joined
Jun 27, 2022
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Just wondering if there is an obvious answer to this: I have a power amp with a 12V trigger input, and a pre-amp + DAC that does not provide any trigger output. So I have to switch each of them on separately. Do any of you know of a relatively easy, i.e. not requiring soldering irons or taking anything apart, that will get me a trigger signal when the preamp is working? Ideally, I could buy a device that connects to the pre output and detects a signal, and makes a 12V signal that I can use.
Any thoughts appreciated, and thanks in advance.
 
There's the bobwire, if you have toslink: https://a.co/d/1kOMBLZ

There's also the Bits Limited Smart Strip LCG-3MVR: https://a.co/d/dVfH4sZ. Plug your preamp/dac into the control port and the amp into the managed port. Or plus a 12V power supply into the managed port and then into the 12V trigger on the amp.
 
Thanks. Some ideas there. Probably the Niles Audio is the closest to what I need. Unfortunately I don’t have a toslink output that could drive the Bobwire, just inputs. The 12V power supply plugged into the Smart power strip is the least expensive.
 
Thanks. Some ideas there. Probably the Niles Audio is the closest to what I need. Unfortunately I don’t have a toslink output that could drive the Bobwire, just inputs. The 12V power supply plugged into the Smart power strip is the least expensive.

I use the power strip w/ an RME DAC and then control Neumann KH80/KH750. I also use it on an Anthem STR preamp to control some accessories (cd player, digital recorder, 12V air circulation fan). I've not personally done the 12V power supply to trigger, but someone else suggested it in some other post, so I thought I'd pass it along.
 
Plug them all into a power bar and use the switch on it.
What’s this? Common sense rearing its head? . I’m thinking my best option is the smart power bar. That way I don’t need to reach behind a rack. Perhaps the reason this did not occur to me before, was having read the power amp manual (Moon 330A) which states that the amp is designed to be left switched on and in standby when not in use, as (they claim) it sounds better. Not at all sure if I buy that.
 
What’s this? Common sense rearing its head? . I’m thinking my best option is the smart power bar. That way I don’t need to reach behind a rack. Perhaps the reason this did not occur to me before, was having read the power amp manual (Moon 330A) which states that the amp is designed to be left switched on and in standby when not in use, as (they claim) it sounds better. Not at all sure if I buy that.
This one can not be sold in Europe any more by law. We have strict regulations for power saving. Assuming more than a Watt in standby.
 
Sorry to be a little bit out of the scope of OP @Whisky the Cat, but just for your reference,,,

The more gears we have in our audio rig, the more careful measures we need to have for preventing accidental pop and/or sound intrusion damages to our SP drivers. At least I myself do not like, therefore, triggered waking-up of all the gears at once/simultaneously.

In my PC-DSP-based multichannel multi-SO-driver multi-amplifier audio setup, I always dare to carefully perform "my standard" ignition/startup sequences and shutdown sequences, even though I use 24-port AC power bar/strip (series of four 6-port strips).

Only if you would be interested, please visit my post here on my project thread.
The latest "startup/ignition sequences" and "shutdown sequences" in my DSP-based multichannel multi-SP-driver multi-amplifier fully active audio rig as of August 3, 2023 #776
 
Sorry to be a little bit out of the scope of OP @Whisky the

In my PC-DSP-based multichannel multi-SO-driver multi-amplifier audio setup, I always dare to carefully perform "my standard" ignition/startup sequences and shutdown sequences,

Only if you would be interested, please visit my post here on my project thread.
The latest "startup/ignition sequences" and "shutdown sequences" in my DSP-based multichannel multi-SP-driver multi-amplifier fully active audio rig as of August 3, 2023 #776
Good lord man. I've started up nuclear reactors that were simpler.

Amp ON last and OFF first. That is not going to occur using a power strip.
 
Good lord man. I've started up nuclear reactors that were simpler.

Amp ON last and OFF first. That is not going to occur using a power strip.

A power strip/conditioner with a sequencer, maybe the Furman M-8S? That might only have power-on sequencing. Anyway, there's a bunch of them.
 
There's the bobwire, if you have toslink: https://a.co/d/1kOMBLZ

There's also the Bits Limited Smart Strip LCG-3MVR: https://a.co/d/dVfH4sZ. Plug your preamp/dac into the control port and the amp into the managed port. Or plus a 12V power supply into the managed port and then into the 12V trigger on the amp.
Before I click "purchase", could you please confirm if I will be able to use my SMSL DL200 DAC as the control outlet? Will the idle power of this specific DAC be sufficient to keep the speakers on? Thanks.
 
Before I click "purchase", could you please confirm if I will be able to use my SMSL DL200 DAC as the control outlet? Will the idle power of this specific DAC be sufficient to keep the speakers on? Thanks.

From the specs, it looks like Idle is < 0.5W and operating is < 30W. That should be a big enough difference that the smart power strip is OK. I use it with an RME ADI-2 FS, which is 120 mW standby and 7W operating. There is an adjustment screw for setting the power on / off thresholds.
 
Hello Whiskey The Cat,

This is Bob from BobWire Audio (manufacture),

Since your posting, I released a new product the BobWire AAT1. It is an analog audio detection device with two 12V trigger outputs. You can adjust the turn off delay time (0 to 10 minutes). This might be the solution you are looking for? Feel free to reach out if you have any questions.

-Bob
BobWire
 
Hi BobWire. What you have looks like an excellent solution to the problem I was describing. Since I made that original post, I took a more basic approach, and bought something with a trigger i/o. If not, I would have been in the market for the AAT1. Might still find it useful. The obvious question would be, “What impact, if any does it have on the passed through signal?” This would be an interesting thing for Amirm to test. Why not send him unit?
 
Hi BobWire. What you have looks like an excellent solution to the problem I was describing. Since I made that original post, I took a more basic approach, and bought something with a trigger i/o. If not, I would have been in the market for the AAT1. Might still find it useful. The obvious question would be, “What impact, if any does it have on the passed through signal?” This would be an interesting thing for Amirm to test. Why not send him unit?
I did send Amir one for testing along with my other products RCA1(Auto RCA switch), SPK1(Auto Amp switch) and XLR1(Auto Balanced switch). Amir just posted the review/testing of the XLR1. I think you can expect the other models to have just as little(basically none) impact to the sound quality.
 
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