Would a voltage transformer (220v to 110v) degrade performance?

[mga2009]

Hi,

Straight up question... Would a voltage transformer from 220volts to 110volts degrade audio performance of a receiver or preamp/processor?

Why I ask? I live in a 220volt country, where receivers and preamps are utterly expensive. It's cheaper for me to just import from USA... Most of USA receivers and processors are 110volt rated, so I need a converter...

I know there are some receiver/processors with dual voltage power supplies (i.e. Emotiva BasX MC1) but most of the time are the expensive ones (AudioControl, ARCAM, etc.)

What do you suggest...
-. Use a voltage converter?
-. Use a voltage converter BUT with a processor and power the speakers with 220v amp (this probably means I need a lower wattage voltage converter)
-. Just get a dual voltage receiver/processor.
-. (NOT ADVICED) Get a 110v receiver and rewire the transformer (I've check some Service Manuals from Denon and 220v and 110v models seem to use a different transformer, not just a rewired one... but this I am not 100% sure).

Cheers!!!

 

[AudiOhm]

Nothing wrong with a step up/down transformer, as long as it is sized correctly.

Just imagine there are more than likely 3-4 step up/down transformers in the circuit supplying you power already.

Ohms

 

[DVDdoug]

Must make sure that the wattage (or "VA") matches or exceeds the power consumed by the receiver. There should be some kind of label near the power connection and/or it may be in the user manual. This should be higher than the receiver's "power rating" to the speakers. Some "safety margin" (extra power available) would be good.

And make sure it's rated for the correct line frequency. Most will be rated for 50 or 60Hz so you'll probably be OK. The receiver should be similarly rated. If it's for the U.S., it may just say 60Hz.

It will consume power (and generate heat) when there is an input/primary voltage, even with the receiver is off. It might be 10 or 20W but that's just a guess.

A "voltage converter" may not work well with audio equipment unless it's just another name for a transformer.



...I'm surprised that more receivers don't have "universal" power supplies. That's common "modern" switching power supplies and they can usually work with a wide range of voltages without a selector switch.

 

[RayDunzl]

It will consume power (and generate heat) when there is an input/primary voltage, even with the receiver is off. It might be 10 or 20W but that's just a guess.

This steps up the voltage, but only a couple of volts, and consumes 7W under no load. It is rated for 1800W, the same value as the 120V 15A residential line it transforms.

Weight is around 50 pounds, maybe more, the current model says 70 pounds..

It gets slightly warm in use, but I think the heat mostky comes from the gear surrounding it.

Rignt now the room is 79F and the face of the Equitech is 85, preamp above it 88, and amps (standby) to the sides 83F, while providing maybe 200 watts to equipment.

 

[mga2009]

Must make sure that the wattage (or "VA") matches or exceeds the power consumed by the receiver. There should be some kind of label near the power connection and/or it may be in the user manual. This should be higher than the receiver's "power rating" to the speakers. Some "safety margin" (extra power available) would be good.

And make sure it's rated for the correct line frequency. Most will be rated for 50 or 60Hz so you'll probably be OK. The receiver should be similarly rated. If it's for the U.S., it may just say 60Hz.

It will consume power (and generate heat) when there is an input/primary voltage, even with the receiver is off. It might be 10 or 20W but that's just a guess.

A "voltage converter" may not work well with audio equipment unless it's just another name for a transformer.



...I'm surprised that more receivers don't have "universal" power supplies. That's common "modern" switching power supplies and they can usually work with a wide range of voltages without a selector switch.

i.e. (1) Denon X3600 120v version says:
660W 60HZ.
This receiver is 105W per channel, with 9 powered channels...
So, for this receiver it would be OK a 1200W transformer?

i.e. (2) Integra DRC-R1 Processor 120v versions says:
65W 60HZ
No powered channels...
So, 100W transformer is OK?

And, even when I am not using the receiver/preamp, the transformer will be consuming 20W of power (just a guess) ??

Also voltage converter = transformer (at least for me).

 

[wwenze]

Note that VA / wattage ratings nowadays can be really BS. Transformer sellers like to say "1000 watts" but then they put a disclaimer that your equipment somehow has perfect power factor so in reality it's more like 1000VA transformer.

My rough rule of thumb is look at the back of your equipment, it should say some kind of amperage rating. And maybe a fuse rating too. Follow the amperage rating, if that is not available then follow the fuse rating. Then reduce the VA if you're poor and think you don't use max power, or increase the VA if you want safety. This is usually better than following the amp output power rating because well, those are BS too. So just follow whatever the power input wants or is capable of.

Example your Denon says 660W power consumption but the speaker output is... watever. In that case just follow the 660W. Then without looking at the inside I'm just going to assume old-school transformer + capacitor power supply so I'm assuming a poor power factor in the 0.5 to 0.67 region at max power. So a 1000 to 1200VA transformer sounds about right... If you're going for full power.

 

[Zek]

i.e. (1) Denon X3600 120v version says:
660W 60HZ.
This receiver is 105W per channel, with 9 powered channels...
So, for this receiver it would be OK a 1200W transformer?

i.e. (2) Integra DRC-R1 Processor 120v versions says:
65W 60HZ
No powered channels...
So, 100W transformer is OK?

You don't need two transformers, one of say 1200W is enough for both devices.

 

[fpitas]

Just imagine there are more than likely 3-4 step up/down transformers in the circuit supplying you power already.

Ohms

But those 500kV to 13kV transformers ruin the soundstage.

 

[thecheapseats]

This steps up the voltage, but only a couple of volts, and consumes 7W under no load. It is rated for 1800W, the same value as the 120V 15A residential line it transforms.

Weight is around 50 pounds, maybe more, the current model says 70 pounds..

It gets slightly warm in use, but I think the heat mostky comes from the gear surrounding it.

Rignt now the room is 79F and the face of the Equitech is 85, preamp above it 88, and amps (standby) to the sides 83F, while providing maybe 200 watts to equipment.

great devices - when you need them - handy for trouble shooting as well... I have two of 'em...

 

[24U]

In fact, the SQ may even improve using a bit more sophisticated step-up/-down transformer. Some are offering a lavish design with electrostic shield between the mains in to secondary voltage and thus reducing the mains noise. The only thing that may occur is tramsformer hum due to dc-shift, but it would happen in any linear transformer based psu in each device anyway. Some of these galvanic isolation transformers are also a bit over-spec'd in there core size and thus more tolerant to dc-shift before getting saturated. It is a benefit for you as a transformer will not transform the dc-component to the secondaries, hence being a very good dc-filter. While if getting saturated (humming) it will cuase harmonics (noise) on the secondaries. So choose wisely and you may well benefit from the transformer.

 

[FrantzM]

But those 500kV to 13kV transformers ruin the soundstage.

Please.... a smiley before someone quotes you on this

 

[fpitas]

Please.... a smiley before someone quotes you on this

The best substations have audiophile grade transformers. You can hear the difference just listening at the fence around them.

 

[FrantzM]

The best substations have audiophile grade transformers. You can hear the difference just listening at the fence around them.

Real Story:

I was part of an audiophile society in the late 80's and remember Dan D'Agostino boasting about how he preferred to have 440 Volts direct to his listening room, I believe he boasted about using some custom-wound copper wire in the step-down transformers so that he could reliably and audiophily (my own adverb) power his Krell Reference Monsters at least in his own house... and we were all around dreaming about copper to our houses, rather than the "putrid" aluminum that were sometimes used... Of course I couldn't then, living in an apartment building, I did the next best thing... I replaced all the outlets in my Living Room with Hubbell Hospital Grade outlets and made sure of asking the electrician to run "dedicated lines" to my system from the panel, specifying to use only large gauge copper wires.. The electrician was amused but no so much when I suggested #6 Gauge wires. IIRC, he told me that these violated some codes and that he wouldn't use these or any >20 A breakers on a 120 Volt circuit ... or, I could keep my money and look for another contractor.. I belatedly went with that ...
Not proud of those days ... but it remains a lesson on how we, humans, can reject rationality.

Peace

 

[24U]

There is a thing about mains, though, that should not be underestimated. When installing in Sweden, the leads are not twisted, but if done, the losses in high frequency noise increases, as the leads become more capacitive, and hence also more immune to RFI/EMI pick-up. Then there are some additional treats that may be porformed. Can't really say they are legal ... , but adding zobel net is a counterstrike to resonances as any circuit is a potential resonator. Then to route them in a shield from central to the socket. Dedicated line do some difference, but does not cure the problems, as the common neutral shares the entire network irrespecttive of L1, L2 or L3. I implement a couple of places with around 3 nF + around 10 ohm R between neutral and protective earth to re-establish the relation between them as they become more and more wobbly along the distance. The operation is to also include the danger of overloading the PE and causing the ground fault relay to trip, one has to limit the ground bias current by not choosing too large capacitors and too small resistors. Topping with a snubber, 470nF + 33 ohm, between the L and N, in each end of the dedicated line further reduces the noise and tendency to resonate on the line. This makes an usually audible impact to devices with linear transformer based psu depending on the amount of noise there is, and how well the manufacturer decoupled their device from the start (most of the technicians are under a budget, even if the hardware is told to be cost-is-no-object brands). *IMHO*