What top coat do you guys like?

[ta240]

I finished my last pair of Baltic birch speakers with a "lemon" hued shellac. It's a beautiful finish and I don't have a garage or other covered outdoor/ventilated space, so being able to apply it indoors is a huge advantage. No water protection of course. I've also had good results with spray lacquer. I don't see the need for poly on speakers, that's more for tables and furniture items that will see a lot of wear.

I love the appearance of the lemon shellac that my next project (not speakers) is going to get several coats for the color and then a light topcoat of wipe-on poly for some added protection.

The baltic birch I've seen done that way looks really sharp.

That goes for any finish. Good preparation is 90% of the end result whether you are using wipe on drying oil, sprayed lacquer or hand rubbed shellac and wax. That's why it's called 'finish' ... ;-)

True, but after working with finishes that specify sanding at 220 grit between coats and that then allow you to sand and polish to as shiny as you want when done; this was a learning curve with needing to have the wood crazy smooth before applying the finish.

 

[Doodski]

Kind of off topic but maybe on topic. What do you peeps use for adhering the veneer to the speakers' MDF? Are these decent prices for veneer?

 

[puppet]

Veneer Glue: Frequently Asked Questions

www.joewoodworker.com

 

[Doodski]

Veneer Glue: Frequently Asked Questions

www.joewoodworker.com

Great details on adhering veneer to stuff. What adhesive works best for a vibrating home environment speaker?

 

[BostonJack]

I really like old-fashioned, made from beetle carapaces, spar varnish. The urethane varnishes are too soft and plastic-y for my taste. Can be applied with a good brush and then tipped off with a dry brush. Builds to a nice appearance of depth easily. 220 hand sand lightly between coats, tack wipe and you're good to go. Can be applied outdoors, but that risks dust and bugs. Indoors in a dust free environment is fine.

Once you get the feel for it, hand application is fun. You can refresh the finish in a few years, no problem.

Epifanes is a great brand. Top quality marine spar varnish has a lot of UV inhibitors in it, more than adequate for indoor use.

 

[bluefuzz]

What do you peeps use for adhering the veneer to the speakers' MDF?

Ordinary white pva wood glue or Titebond II. Spread thinly on both surfaces with a rubber roller. Let glue dry. Iron on the veneer with an ordinary clothes iron on its hottest setting.

If you want to go old-skool you can use traditional carpenter's hot hide glue with a good dose of urea (or salt) added to extend the drying time and proper veneer hammer to apply it. But the pva glue is a lot easier and less messy.

 

[carbidetooth]

I really like old-fashioned, made from beetle carapaces, spar varnish. The urethane varnishes are too soft and plastic-y for my taste. Can be applied with a good brush and then tipped off with a dry brush. Builds to a nice appearance of depth easily. 220 hand sand lightly between coats, tack wipe and you're good to go. Can be applied outdoors, but that risks dust and bugs. Indoors in a dust free environment is fine.

Once you get the feel for it, hand application is fun. You can refresh the finish in a few years, no problem.

Epifanes is a great brand. Top quality marine spar varnish has a lot of UV inhibitors in it, more than adequate for indoor use.

Do tell about the beetle carapaces. Could you be thinking of shellac, which is excretions from Lac bugs?

 

[AudioAaron]

Ordinary white pva wood glue or Titebond II. Spread thinly on both surfaces with a rubber roller. Let glue dry. Iron on the veneer with an ordinary clothes iron on its hottest setting.

If you want to go old-skool you can use traditional carpenter's hot hide glue with a good dose of urea (or salt) added to extend the drying time and proper veneer hammer to apply it. But the pva glue is a lot easier and less messy.

This works best for me.

I will be trying a 3m psa veneer next project.

 

[Timcognito]

You can learn a lot at the site below and the quality and size is very good. I like iron on for ease of use and robustness of material. The un-skinned veneer is friable in the grain direction on many species.

Veneer Technologies

Wood Veneer Sheets, Red Oak, Maple, Ash, Cherry, & more

Our wood veneer sheets are ideal for woodworking projects and cabinet refacing. Paper backed & pressure sensitive adhesive (PSA) backed.

www.ovisonline.com

 

[carbidetooth]

You can learn a lot at the site below and the quality and size is very good. I like iron on for ease of use and robustness of material. The un-skinned veneer is friable in the grain direction on many species.

Veneer Technologies

Wood Veneer Sheets, Red Oak, Maple, Ash, Cherry, & more

Our wood veneer sheets are ideal for woodworking projects and cabinet refacing. Paper backed & pressure sensitive adhesive (PSA) backed.

www.ovisonline.com

By "un-skinned" do you mean raw veneer with no backer? I know friable as crumbly; do you mean bendable? Paper backed veneer is typically very flexible.

 

[Timcognito]

By "un-skinned" do you mean raw veneer with no backer? I know friable as crumbly; do you mean bendable? Paper backed veneer is typically very flexible.

Un-backed would have been better, I was at a loss for words there. Friable should have been splits easily. I have used both types and those with backing are easier to cut in complicated and narrow shapes and bend as you say. Haven't used too much veneer lately. Steam bending wood is my latest endeavor.