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Speaker Position - need some advice

OMG, you're driving those beautiful speakers with... ZIP WIRE!!??!? What gauge is that even? How can you hear ANYTHING?!??!? :eek:;)
The Salon2 also have the same boundary adjustments as the 208. I'm "assuming" that Revel decided that their functionality was worth putting in their Flagship speaker. Perhaps a part of getting the most from your speakers and room... perhaps not.

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First we have complaints that sarcastic posts don't have emojis (per Poe's Law) and then we have a conniption fit when a sarcastic post DOES have emojis.

It's a lose-lose situation. :facepalm:
My point is, Amir used it for his review on the 208s, with the intention to lay the OT to rest. Quoting Amir was an on topic response to the OP's question. "I played with the bass compensation and it does what it says: if you set it to boundary, it lowers the bass level. I did not test the tweeter one but I suspect it does the same. An array of power resistors behind that panel makes these simple level changes."

This isn't sarcastic either, so no emoji... right? :facepalm:
 
My sarcastic remark (yes sarcastic) was not meant to hijack the thread. Sorry if that's becoming the case.

To keep it on topic with my opinion - which is suspect - I've always assumed it's measured from where the sound emanates (the cone or front) to the wall. Of course that becomes confusing if there's a back port. But I suspect the issue, in part, has to do with the distance from the wall being a 1/4 wavelength of a certain frequency and causing a phase cancellation of that frequency when the wave bounces back from the wall and combines with the direct sound.
 
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First we have complaints that sarcastic posts don't have emojis (per Poe's Law) and then we have a conniption fit when a sarcastic post DOES have emojis.

It's a lose-lose situation. :facepalm:
And then you put another emoji on top of it :facepalm:?
 
Does Revel give any advice in their manual or elsewhere?

I would say contrary to popular belief there's not a huge difference between moving them a few cm back and forth. You will get some boundary gain if they're close to the wall. If you want to change that significantly you have to move them WAY out. There is no general advice as to what is correct for most neutral response, as it depends on a combination of the how the speaker is designed, how your room works and where you sit.

Another problematic area is the 100-300hz range, which is often less problematic if the speakers are closer to the wall.
No specific guidance from the Revel manual.
 

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Per ChatGPT (given some of the constraints I have):

Optimized Setup for Your Revel F208 + DSPeaker Anti-Mode X2

1. Speaker Placement

• Distance from back wall: 18 inches (your max available space)
• Distance from side walls: More than 4 feet (good, no change)
Toe-in:
• Start with them aimed directly at your listening position (as Revel recommends).
• Adjust slightly outward if the center image feels too narrow or forward.
• Height & Floor Coupling: Use spikes or isolation pads to minimize unwanted vibrations.

2. Boundary Compensation Settings
Leave the boundary switch in “Normal” (since DSPeaker will handle correction).

3. DSPeaker Anti-Mode X2 Setup
Run the calibration process in your listening position.
Let the DSPeaker analyze and correct low-frequency room interactions.
After calibration, evaluate the sound and tweak if needed:
• If bass is still too strong or muddy, you can manually apply a small low-shelf EQ cut around 60–80Hz.
• If bass feels too thin, you may want to check the house curve settings on the DSPeaker to add a mild low-end lift below 100Hz.
 
As with everything else sometimes things in audio resembles the 5 yo wearing its mama's high heels.

The trend for having the speakers way into room is inevitable sometimes by their physical dimensions alone. When a speaker is 60 cm deep for example the dead area (50 cm to 110 cm) is impossible. So what's the next option? Out in the room.

Now,people see these big ones at shows and assume that that's the universal optimal placing (other than flush mounted) .
And so on...
 
Thanks. Though I am looking for some more guidance beyond "trust your ears". Hence my post.

Generally I am more concerned about the rear of the speaker distance if it is ported and the front if sealed. And I do use my ears... and measurements.

When speakers are too far out, it shows up as a fall off of the bass. Pretty easy to see in a sweep. When they are too close to my wall, things get boomy, and that shows up in sweeps.

Given my speaker measurements are known in the Klippel sense, I generally go for a distance that gives me the expected room response for bass, as a starting point, for my target SPL. That would be a fall off after 40hz in room with my current speakers. Then I play around with things to see what I can hear... and measure after I hear something "better" than my starting point.
 
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