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Oil Change Intervals Objectively

Trouble Maker

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but collecting the oil can be a pain if you're not equipped for it.

I assume the send something (vials/sample bottle) to collect it in.
It's really not that hard with the right method.
WEAR PROTECTIVE EYE GEAR. It's really easy for the brake cleaner to shoot in random directions.
Clean really well, a few times, with brake cleaner around the drain plug. You don't want any gunk around it contaminating your sample.
Unscrew the drain plug all of the way but hold it in towards the pan. Even unscrewed all of the way (virtually) no fluid should come out.
Very slightly tilt the drain plug up while holding the vial directly under it. A small stream should come out. Super easy to control the amount and flow by how much you tilt the drain plug up. Also easy to screw the drain plug back in, just enough to stop any oil coming out, move the oil drain pan under and drain. Or if not yet changing the oil, easy to remove a small amount and put the drain plug back in.
 
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Martini

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It's maybe an hour of my time, most of which is jacking the car up and crawling under it and cleanup. And even with OEM filter and a 'normal' full synthetic it's $50~$60/change. The Jeep Grand Cherokee Diesel daily driver is something like $100~$150/change. So $50 is cheap. Once per year in the spring when I pull it out of hibernation seems reasonable, even if it's probably not technically needed.
Better practice would be to change out the contaminated oil in the Fall/Winter before putting it to bed for the winter. Change the oil & filter, start the engine just long enough to circulate the oil and build oil pressure (20 sec. ?), then shut it off and don't start it again until you are ready to drive it next spring. Also, disconnect the battery or put it on a smart-charger/maintainer.
 

Trouble Maker

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or put it on a smart-charger/maintainer.
It's on one of these most of the time it's in the garage, regardless of season.
 

Construct

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Used oil analysis isn't very expensive.

I use Blackstone labs for oil analysis on my track car: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Write in the notes that you're looking for advice about oil change intervals based on the results. The person who reads your analysis should provide some advice based on what they see.

After doing a single used oil analysis on my commuter vehicle after the recommended 10,000 mile interval, I no longer have any concerns about going that long between oil changes. Modern oils are very good.
 

blueone

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I watched a mechanic change the oil in a inboard boat. Because the V8 engine was tightly tucked in the boat the oil change was impossible from the bottom. So. The mechanic had a tool like a ~3 gallon canister with a vacuum pressure, with a long suction tube that fits inside the dipstick tube and he sucked the oil out the dipstick tube. It took a few minutes and then he just poured the new oil in and voila... done. It made things very easy.
I use this technique on any vehicle with a dipstick. Unfortunately, more and more vehicles don't have dipsticks.

 

Neddy

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Used oil analysis isn't very expensive.

I use Blackstone labs for oil analysis on my track car: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Write in the notes that you're looking for advice about oil change intervals based on the results. The person who reads your analysis should provide some advice based on what they see.

After doing a single used oil analysis on my commuter vehicle after the recommended 10,000 mile interval, I no longer have any concerns about going that long between oil changes. Modern oils are very good.
I use Blackstone as well, every 2nd oil change. They compare older results to the newest, very helpful.
With just 60k miles on it, their tests still show it within 'new' range!
I dont drive as often any more (twice per week, but more than 5mi each time).
I drive a nearly 20 (!!!) year old Honda Ridgeline that I've simply been servicing when the Maintenance Minder tells me to.
So far it's been about every 3 years between changes. It's also been (by Far) The most reliable car I've every owned, with minimal repair costs (blinker fluid was most recent:)
I haven't really pushed it beyond 3 years, as the risk benefit just isn't worth it, though that's only 1500 miles or so.
Having said all that tho, I know I'm coming up on some serious Change All Fluids And Lubricants And Tming Belt and Shocks etc maintenance items.
But that thing doesn't owe me a thing - and it still looks and drives like new, and with NO rust (I crawled under the other day to check!)
 

Rottmannash

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I watched a mechanic change the oil in a inboard boat. Because the V8 engine was tightly tucked in the boat the oil change was impossible from the bottom. So. The mechanic had a tool like a ~3 gallon canister with a vacuum pressure, with a long suction tube that fits inside the dipstick tube and he sucked the oil out the dipstick tube. It took a few minutes and then he just poured the new oil in and voila... done. It made things very easy.
next to last oil change on one of my cars at Valvoline used the suction method. I asked why they did that instead of draining it from the bottom but they didn't have a good reason. Last time different Valvoline drained from the plug so was happy. Don't like the idea of old oil sitting in the bottom of the pan...
 

ZolaIII

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I don't drive much anymore, one or two trips a year and local as much as I must which ain't much. In old car petrol Golf II I used cheap domestic oil and changed it once a year I owned it for more than 10 years and only once did a engine refresh (oil and head gasket and oil sump one) and son of a... just worked. In current pece of... Renault diesel (which I truly hate) I switched to full synthetic and its on two years interval. Transmission and brake one's I change every 3~4 years. Needles to say I check the fluids once a month or so. Every product has expiration date and it's store/use dependences which influences it. Same goes about part's maintenance and expected life cycle. I use same full synthetic on small work engines which I annually use for 20~30 h a year for 3~4 years.
 

Byrdsmaniac

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I have a 2009 Honda Accord and I've only had it changed when the oil change light comes on. I didn't change it for 2 years during the pandemic. I've also got a 2020 Subaru Outback which I have never changed the oil since the light has never come on it only has 5500 miles on it.
This is a recipe for disaster, especially with the Outback.
 

Doodski

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At least they do the oil change correctly: http://www.funny2.com/oil.htm
Hehe. Too funny. There's a lot of truth to it though. What I don't get is why wouldn't the wife let his bowling trophy into the house.

"26. Throw crescent wrench across the garage in anger. Throw a fit because crescent wrench hits bowling trophy (which wife wouldn't let stay in the house)."
 

Rottmannash

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I do 3500 miles or 6 months.
Running direct injection isn't the cleanest thing out there and the oil does burn away on my car, so changing it more often makes be feel better.
My Hyundai Sonata has a direct injection engine. How does DI affect oil consumption?
 

blueone

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My Hyundai Sonata has a direct injection engine. How does DI affect oil consumption?
It doesn't. What it does do is allow carbon build-up on the backs of the intake valves, since there isn't any fuel (which has detergents in it) washing away the carbon. The carbon comes from the exhaust gas recirculation and positive crankcase ventilation systems. A lot of cars don't have air-oil separators for the intake track. AOS units don't eliminate the build-up, but they help minimize it.
 

Blumlein 88

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Slayer

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For myself, standard practice is every 3,000 miles or once a year, whichever comes first. Better safe than sorry is my motto.
However, when it comes to a few of my neighbors, I think they wait till the ticking becomes louder than their stereo.
 

blueone

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I’m surprised the article doesn’t mention the PCV system. It must be a marketing article for their “special” oil.
 

Blumlein 88

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I’m surprised the article doesn’t mention the PCV system. It must be a marketing article for their “special” oil.
Oh definitely a promo piece, but most of the info is still good.
 

Astrozombie

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I'd go 1.5 or 2 years in your case, don't think it's a big deal. Do you have it done or do you do it yourself? How old is it? Do you live in a cold weather area?

Just keep in mind if you go to a place they can screw up your drain plug, my brother had them either putting on the cartridge wrong or not changing the gasket and it was leaking oil after his last change and he said he went to some really fancy place.
 
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