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cobbling first setup together- powering KEF R3 for low-medium volume listening?

nygafre

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@phats22 mic is essential and will bring more improvement than you can even imagine. You do need separate (hardware) chenel for sub in order to do high pass on mains so it's either a PC with multichannel sound card or such interface or standalone DSP. There is no replacement for proper placement and don't worry using REW and making PEQ's ain't that hard once you get a hang of it, all it needs is a little bit of learning and practice. Don't worry you will get there regarding that and with a help from hire.
The Powernode Edge has adjustable high pass, if that’s what you meant there?:)
 

ZolaIII

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The Powernode Edge has adjustable high pass, if that’s what you meant there?:)
It's a interesting one with having the HDMI input and basic Dolby (digital) suport along with a adjustable high pass. Even the price isn't bad. On the bad side it's only 40 W @8 Ohms so you would need a rather efficient (SPL @1 m at 1 W 8 Ohms) speakers with it and even that with relatively high crossover and a sub.
In generally that is what I meant give or take freedom to do what you want and as you want (with more chenels and full control). Best regards and have fun.
 

nygafre

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It's a interesting one with having the HDMI input and basic Dolby (digital) suport along with a adjustable high pass. Even the price isn't bad. On the bad side it's only 40 W @8 Ohms so you would need a rather efficient (SPL @1 m at 1 W 8 Ohms) speakers with it and even that with relatively high crossover and a sub.
In generally that is what I meant give or take freedom to do what you want and as you want (with more chenels and full control). Best regards and have fun.
Exactly! Also the reason I too find it difficult to move away from the Powernode to e.g. separates. Quite nice bundle of features included.. but then again, not very flexible.

Have been thinking about adding Dirac in the ‘HDMI chain’ by a miniDSP NanoAVR.. but yeah, will probably wait as I’m not sure it is the right solution long term.

OP: Having Umik/REW and the port bungs for the R3’s is very helpful indeed to find/understand the optimum placement in the room. The port bungs (half bungs) have been great to tame a peak in bass response in my room, even though I’m not sure it is the ‘best’ solution. (At least when the system doesn’t have any PEQ options). But the PB-1000 Pro will at least give you 3 PEQ bands for the bass.
 

ZolaIII

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@nygafre well three PEQ's ain't much barely enough to take care about usual low bass room mode (one or two PEQ's) and adjust how it slopes in with mains with other one (high self). I stepped back to desktop PC for my 2.2 setup using JRiver as processor and volume controls with AE-5 Plus. It's flexible as much it can be and doesn't cost all that much if you already have a deacent desktop (nothing fancy) tho not the quietest solution especially under heavy utilisation (gaming or MadVR video processing) but I keep it more than 3 m away and don't mind (mid 30 dB watching a movie and having luck that I can go with close to 80 average SPL not bothering any one) It does the job done (EBU R128, Loudness, chenel mapping, infinite PEQ's, pluggins, software decoders, convolutions, WDM intermediate driver and a remote app) that's for sure if you are willing to go with that sacrifices (not really compact or handy, not really entirely silent but could be kept in residential noise flour for music at least and not very power consumption friendly with some learning effort and maintenance). Anyway there is no free ride or perfect setup and you decide what are acceptable limitations for you.
 
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nygafre

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@nygafre well three PEQ's ain't much barely enough to take care about usual low bass room mode (one or two PEQ's) and adjust how it slopes in with mains with other two (high self). I stepped back to desktop PC for my 2.2 setup using JRiver as processor and volume controls with AE-5 Plus. It's flexible as much it can be and doesn't cost all that much if you already have a deacent desktop (nothing fancy) tho not the quietest solution especially under heavy utilisation (gaming or MadVR video processing) but I keep it more than 3 m away and don't mind (mid 30 dB watching a movie and having luck that I can go with close to 80 average SPL not bothering any one) It does the job done (EBU R128, Loudness, chenel mapping, infinite PEQ's, pluggins, software decoders, convolutions, WDM intermediate driver and a remote app) that's for sure if you are willing to go with that sacrifices (not really compact or handy, not really entirely silent but could be kept in residential noise flour for music at least and not very power consumption friendly with some learning effort and maintenance). Anyway there is no free ride or perfect setup and you decide what are acceptable limitations for you.
Thank’s for the explanation.
I do have a decent PC, currently with a Soundblaster FX card which I bought in 2017. (Would it be feasible to use this sound card the same way you describe for AE-5?). I moved away from using my PC, since I watch a lot of movies and find the combination of Apple TV and HDMI input on the Pnode very convenient. Really happy with this setup for movies, but def feel a need for a more flexible DSP solution for music.

Hmm, I guess one problem with the powernode is that it would be suboptimal to do processing on the pc, and then have the signal go through the Pnode conversion/pre amp as well?
 

ZolaIII

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Thank’s for the explanation.
I do have a decent PC, currently with a Soundblaster FX card which I bought in 2017. (Would it be feasible to use this sound card the same way you describe for AE-5?). I moved away from using my PC, since I watch a lot of movies and find the combination of Apple TV and HDMI input on the Pnode very convenient. Really happy with this setup for movies, but def feel a need for a more flexible DSP solution for music.

Hmm, I guess one problem with the powernode is that it would be suboptimal to do processing on the pc, and then have the signal go through the Pnode conversion/pre amp as well?
It can and performance will be about the same, it will probably be a little shy under 2 V regarding output but close (around 1.8 V or 1.7 dB under). I use Epson FHD beamer for movie's it's native 10 bit but doesn't do tone mapping by it self and there I use MadVR for that. With JRiver WDM driver as intermediate I apply audio DSP to pretty much any digital source (able to use system default driver or otherwise) and for my own local music (which it's still the most I listen to) I use JRemote 2 app (which while not great serve purpose). Of course you can get almost the same (minus some content and a remote) for free with EQ APO along with better REW integration (direct PEQ export for it while with JRiver you need to type them in manually).
 

nygafre

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It can and performance will be about the same, it will probably be a little shy under 2 V regarding output but close (around 1.8 V or 1.7 dB under). I use Epson FHD beamer for movie's it's native 10 bit but doesn't do tone mapping by it self and there I use MadVR for that. With JRiver WDM driver as intermediate I apply audio DSP to pretty much any digital source (able to use system default driver or otherwise) and for my own local music (which it's still the most I listen to) I use JRemote 2 app (which while not great serve purpose). Of course you can get almost the same (minus some content and a remote) for free with EQ APO along with better REW integration (direct PEQ export for it while with JRiver you need to type them in manually).
Cool! I’ll give JRiver/EQ APO a try when I get home from work. Currently away for a couple weeks.
 

Audiomn

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Congrats on the PB-1000 Pro! The Bluetooth management is great.

Both Zolall and Radix are spot on. To calibrate your system successfully (it makes a HUGE difference) you will need:

UMIK-1 mic

Rew

DAC or hardware with a high pass and low pass filter

Some form of eq that can be applied to the sub and speakers

Ideally room correction software, Dirac Live is incredible and make a massive difference in both quality and ease of calibration.

The MiniDSP SHD and SHD studio gets you all of the above plus a world class DAC, preamp with remote, and headphone amp. You also get Deer Creek’s excellent articles and support with setting everything up and calibration.

Room treatment like rugs, curtains, and purpose-oriented items like bass traps and wall treatments also help a ton.
 

TheBatsEar

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I'll answer this without having read through the other comments, so most of it was probably said, but oh well.
i currently have kef R3s in route and nothing else (crappy sound bar notwithstanding).
A big upgrade!

power amp- buckeye NC 252MP (~550)
Yes, amplification is sorted with this.

minidsp-ddrc-24 (~450) + wiim
I would go for the MiniDSP Flex without Dirac instead, it is a proper digital preamp, has better connectivity, all the cables to the back and generally looks better. There are a few different types now, i have the RCA one, there will be one with HDMI soon. I have my TV connected through optical, but HDMI would be nice as well.
I would skip the Dirac license for now, you can add it later if you think you still want it.
To make full use of the Flex or DDRC-24 you also need a measurement microphone, the UMIK1 is used by many.

(or maybe minidsp SHD to cover streaming as well?)
I think you would prefer to replace your streamer every few years when new stuff gets available, and keep the digital preamp.

TT ~500-1000 left over depending on above options.
I prefer the record players from the early 80ies, fully automatic and direct drive. One of the most popular that was sold for a long time, until 1998, was the Denon DP-47F, but the DP-57F or DP-45F are very similar.
Add a new cartridge, for example a VM-AT95ML and a phono preamp that is then connected to the analog input of the MiniDSP. I think the Cambridge Audio Duo or Solo are beyond doubt, maybe you have luck and find one for a good price.
Use hifishark to find used stuff in your area.

PS- this is less important now but would love any insight into the best way to add headphone capability to the above
Well, you buy a headphone amp, like the Topping L30 II and a RCA switch. From the MiniDSP output to the RCA switch, from there to the headphone amp or power amp. You would then use a specific preset on the MiniDSP to EQ your headphones.
 
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