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‘Vintage’ preamp required!

AnalogSteph

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Here's what would have been reviewed by German stereoplay magazine from about 1979 to 2003, integrated - preamps - power amps - receivers in that order. I wouldn't trust their ratings too much, but not bad for getting an idea of what was out there in a market not a million miles from the UK. As a rule of thumb, expensive stuff from the big Japanese brands of the times is generally worth checking out. I don't think Yamaha made a bad back in the day. And if there was ever a misnomer, it has to be the Kenwood "Basic" series (the larger models in which were good midrange fare at least).
 

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eddantes

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I vote for Kenwood - either the Supreme or the L series. If looks are important: the 700c in a wooden sleve is just delish (in my eyes)

ab808cd1ea7090a8fa76513bdf443fbc.jpg


Of the L series - they're pretty much all "UGOs" - but are good performers. I'd probably go for the L-1000C cause it comes with a remote...

Kenwood_L-1000_C-1.jpg
 

Ilkless

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Thanks for this thread Keith -- while trying to jog my memory of some vintage legends for my reply, I found that someone a long drive away is selling one of my vintage unicorns (Pioneer Exclusive C3) in pristine condition at a good price. Got me tempted to plan a weekend trip to collect the preamp!
 
OP
Purité Audio

Purité Audio

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That is a preamp, after you have finished with it let me know!
Best,
Keith
 

mhardy6647

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GAS Thaedra is cool. Apparently it has a very good MC section.
a.jpg

4191502-79722d30-gas-thaedra-ii-preamp.jpg
The GAS preamps were almost surprisingly nice, but they weren't terribly robust and they don't age terribly gracefully. Buying one 40 years on buying a hobby. ;)

Don't ask me how I know this. ;)

 

Doodski

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The GAS preamps were almost surprisingly nice, but they weren't terribly robust and they don't age terribly gracefully. Buying one 40 years on buying a hobby. ;)

Don't ask me how I know this. ;)

I had a GAS Thaedra pre-amp operating my tri-amp'd active crossover system. It worked wonderfully. No issues, All the solder inside was good and the metals where not oxidized or covered in grime. It was a clean daily driver.
 

Mr. Widget

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I had a GAS Thaedra pre-amp operating my tri-amp'd active crossover system. It worked wonderfully. No issues, All the solder inside was good and the metals where not oxidized or covered in grime. It was a clean daily driver.
I have owned and still own a number of Grandson and Son amps. Very nice designs, but unlike some of the more exotic and costly vintage gear I appreciate the parts are not Mil Spec or super conservatively specified so parts failures are common with age. Then again, I suppose I could say the same about myself.
 

Sal1950

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There's so many to choose from but,
IMO nothing says classic pre-amp like a
Audio Research SP 8/10
or even the older ones. The SP 6 were very sweet.
audio-research-sp-8-all-tube-analog-preamp-with-phono-stage-preamplifier-559_800x.jpg


For SS I love the Phase Linear 4000, very kool piece with some extra processing.
Be sure to get the walnut case. ;)
s-l1600.jpg

d696e0c713cf84ed71761ce40ea49ccb--linear-audio.jpg
 

phoenixdogfan

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Whatever you do, avoid the AR SP 9 which was a screech box. A CJ PV 4 was considered a classic in the early '80s, also, if you're looking for tubes the Convergent Audio Technology Cat 1 was very highly regarded in the '80s. For solid state, something by the Canadian company Classe should be pretty good.
 

EJ3

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Does it have moving coil phono input?
index.php

index.php
Funny, that is the one that I was going to suggest! (for those that don't know, the one pictured is one of my 2 [resto-modded by Peter at QuirkAudio]).

The MC set ups for Phono 2 MAY still be available through: Vince Naeve, who has worked for companies such as Apt, H.H. Scott, and KLH. And is owner of:

Audio Proz Service and Sales​

779 Mt. Auburn St., Watertown MA 02472
PHONE: (617)926-8020
EMAIL: [email protected]
M(12-7), W-F(12-7), SAT(11-3)
Closed Tuesday and Sunday

APT Moving Coil Phono Mod​

(Modification)​

Mar 24th, 2017

The boards are adapted to as close of input impedance match as possible when ordered (and noted on website). Many boards 210, 201A 202 etc. are very similar but differ in subtle ways because M.C. cartridge designs (even same models) varied in performance, especially in low frequency "equalization" and output level. We at APT tried to keep up with this matter and attempted to calibrate each card to within +/- 1db at 50hz (lows) for specific cartridges, but it was getting too complicated when more different M.C. designs kept coming. 201 or 202, A, B whatever, were often updated with a multi parallel input transistor board (to change impedance, slight gain, against noise parameter, etc.).

The add on "transistor" board is five more parallel transistors at the front end of the preamp to get another 4db to 6db better noise floor, which can be significant with some low output designs.

Presently all I can do is match input impedance and preamp board is typically +/- 2db within range of low frequency accuracy for most cartridges. No one has complained yet. Really the blame goes to the M.C. industry who without standards and their inconstancy to provide genuine technical specifications. Some products were certainly more correct than others (Adcom, Ortofon, Audio Technica). This is ultimately the reason why remarkable sonic opinions of M.C. performance vary tremendously among listeners. Even the arm wiring resistance can affect M.C. performance, as well as the phono cables (which does not necessarily mean more expensive phono cables are better), and other factors play a role. Fancy name preamps can also introduce sonic "flavors". Ultimately some manufacturers had to make specific transformers or preamps to try to get the best results, but the costs were very high for such unique designs.

In the final analysis the APT preamp has an equalizer switch for just the low end and an imaging control to help make the tonal balance to your taste. Also the main reason why M.C. could sound better is due to the use of a shibata or hypeline shaped tip stylus. As well the slight out of phase summing of recorded midrange which actually reduces stereo separation, but gives the impression of a more ambient field, and so "brighter" high frequency. Such a stylus can be had on conventional cartridges such as a Stanton 881s or AT 440 MLA for example. These cartridges are designed to be very close to the proper RIAA standards of equalization, and are easy to match loading impedances. Personally I think these are more consistent in sound, but moving coil designs can take it all up a notch in "transparency" effect.

It gets even more complex than this, but such is the audio business. The bottom line is give us the specs of a cartridge and adjust the input impedance which is the most crucial parameter before selling. This is explained in our listing. I will also put this commentary on our website. I hope I have helped.

Thanks
Vince
 

loplop

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I had an ARC SP16 that I loved. Shouldn’t have sold that one. All tube, 12AX7s so you can roll, unlike the 6H30 amps that followed. Lovely sound, and remote control!
 

Chrispy

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If just limited to 2ch I use my Carver C-1 still.
 

Short38

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Tomlinson Holman left his company and joined Lucas Film where he developed THX (Tom Holman’s Experiment) I regret selling my Holman pre. The original user manual was I thought a brilliantly produced document. This thread is a wonderful rabbit hole down memory lane.
 

Ilkless

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Whatever preamp you get I'd suggest a specimen from the volume control/potentiometer wars of the 70s/80s -- back when brands were competing to build the most sophisticated controls with the best materials, reliability and haptics as a distinguishing feature. The era gave us the likes of the ALPS RK50:


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Potentiometers built to a quality and price that isn't economically feasible in practically any commercial amp now.
 
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