Source computer's HUGE effect on fidelity

[Doodski]

Those coolers can be used fanless in a semi-silent system in many cases if not overclocking

 

[Sal1950]

Those coolers can be used fanless in a semi-silent system in many cases if not overclocking

The 10 & 12 heatpipe models look great! I bet they could be run fanless. In the end you could always put in fan controls and turn them off when not needed, then just dial them up if need be???

 

[Count Arthur]

I think the Noctua NH D15 is still pretty much top of the charts: https://noctua.at/en/nh-d15

It's a big old lump though.

I staunchly resisted water cooling for years because I don't like mixing liquid and electronics

There weren't any "all in one" solutions when I played with watercooling and there were only a handfull of people making water blocks and radiators.

I went all in, I bought the water blocks, 1 each for the CPU, Chipset and Graphics card, but then used a really powerfull aquarium pump, I built a 12v relay to turn on the mains pump on when the PC was powered on, I used some 1/2" ID tubing to the water blocks, a radiator from an Austin Mini, which is about the right size for 4 x 120mm fans and I built some manifolds so that the water ran to the three separate water blocks and back in parallel, rather than in series. I think the tubing between the pump, radiator and the manifolds was 1.5" so it was really fast flowing. The end result was all a bit "Heath Robinson", but it did keep everything very cool.

 

[Doodski]

The 10 & 12 heatpipe models look great! I bet they could be run fanless. In the end you could always put in fan controls and turn them off when not needed, then just dial them up if need be???

The onboard motherboard BIOS fan control these days is more than enough fan control for silent running and engaging at a predetermined temp. I don't use mine because I use 200mm case fans that are pretty much not whiny and I like running them direct off the power supply. The water cooler has 2-140mm fans and they run pretty quiet too in the regular mode of fan speed. If one winds them up in performance mode they rotate pretty fast and make noise. From what I read I could use the slow speed and maybe only gain 2C-3C in temps. I like to keep everything cool so I have long life expectancy and few issues. The better video cards these days don't engage the fans till about 65C and then they are using larger fans than back in the day so they have a lower noise profile too.

 

[Doodski]

I think the Noctua NH D15 is still pretty much top of the charts: https://noctua.at/en/nh-d15

It's a big old lump though.



There weren't any "all in one" solutions when I played with watercooling and there were only a handfull of people making water blocks and radiators.

I went all in, I bought the water blocks, 1 each for the CPU, Chipset and Graphics card, but then used a really powerfull aquarium pump, I built a 12v relay to turn on the mains pump on when the PC was powered on, I used some 1/2" ID tubing to the water blocks, a radiator from an Austin Mini, which is about the right size for 4 x 120mm fans and I built some manifolds so that the water ran to the three separate water blocks and back in parallel, rather than in series. I think the tubing between the pump, radiator and the manifolds was 1.5" so it was really fast flowing. The end result was all a bit "Heath Robinson", but it did keep everything very cool.

So you made a system I used to dream about back in the day when a dual CPU was for the brave and the hardercore.

 

[Count Arthur]

The first PC I bought, was a dual Pentium II workstation, that had the CPUs on riser cards, like this:

Now, there are probably some mobile phones with more processing power and memory.

 

[Doodski]

The first PC I bought, was a dual Pentium II workstation, that had the CPUs on riser cards, like this:

Now, there are probably some mobile phones with more processing power and memory.

My first was a P75. I used that for years and upgraded to a AMD 800 and then a AMD Barton. I figured I hit the big time when I bought my Barton and overclocked it and had a video card with a slow 30mm fan. I went without a desktop for years getting by on my notebooks but I promised myself when 5GHz became available I would step up and buy a desktop I figure it's good for 7 years or more.

 

[Sal1950]

I think the Noctua NH D15 is still pretty much top of the charts: https://noctua.at/en/nh-d15
It's a big old lump though.

That is a big ole lump, but a dang good one, as is the one Doodski recommended. They both claim to be able to cool my 95 watt Core2 9550 fanless, then with a fan controler either bios or controller run I may be able to take this old computer into the second decade of 2000. If the board or cpu should then fail, all this stuff could be reused..
Can you smell the smoke from Sal's brain?

 

[Doodski]

That is a big ole lump, but a dang good one, as is the one Doodski recommended. They both claim to be able to cool my 95 watt Core2 9550 fanless, then with a fan controler either bios or controller run I may be able to take this old computer into the second decade of 2000. If the board or cpu should then fail, all this stuff could be reused..
Can you smell the smoke from Sal's brain?

Make sure you buy the heat sink with both the Intel and AMD compatibility. Some of the heat sinks come for AMD or Intel but sometimes not both and others offer a kit that can be purchased separately so you can have choices later if you upgrade the motherboard and CPU. Usually Noctua and Thermalright supply both Intel and AMD mounting kits with their CPU coolers. As a bonus they both fit well and you should have no issues with tolerances or weird mounting like some other cooler brands.

 

[Count Arthur]

I have a Noctua NH D15 at idle, the fans are only spinning at ~500rpm and stayed under 1,100rpm when the CPU was at 100%, so it's very quiet:

My first was a P75. I used that for years and upgraded to a AMD 800 and then a AMD Barton.

I had a couple of AMD CPUs, one of which was a Barton, I think i also had one of their mobile CPUs, which was unlocked and said to be good overclocker when used in a desktop. I then switched back to Intel for a couple of CPUs and now back to AMD again.

 

[Doodski]

Anybody else getting Trojan warnings from this thread?

 

[Count Arthur]

That's the image I linked to. I'm not getting any warnings and a quick scan didn't show up anything.

I just uploaded the image, instead of linking to it, has that made a difference?

 

[Doodski]

That's the image I linked to. I'm not getting any warnings and a quick scan didn't show up anything.

Yeah, I thought it was your image link. Maybe unlink it? The web page it is on might be infected with some sort of nasty thing.

 

[Doodski]

That's the image I linked to. I'm not getting any warnings and a quick scan didn't show up anything.

I just uploaded the image, instead of linking to it, has that made a difference?

I opened this thread today and the Bitdefender warning about a trojan is still occurring. Seeing as Bitdefender is known to detect more stuff than competing security suites maybe the image is corrupted and other security suites simply are not detecting it. From my reading about system security it is possible to attach nasty stuff to images and even audio files. Give me a link to the web page and I'll attempt to open it and see what happens.

 

[Count Arthur]

Here it is: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/asus-p2l97-ds-rev-03-dual-cpu-pentium-1792498824

 

[Doodski]

Here it is: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/asus-p2l97-ds-rev-03-dual-cpu-pentium-1792498824

Hmmz. I have no warning from Bitdefender when opening the web page and opening larger images of your old motherboard. It seems fine. Shrug

 

[Nicolaas]

Post the output, and we can help you interpret it.

Hi mansr, thanks for your offer. Currently I am looking into new hardware to replace my 13 years old Vaio laptop because it really gets too slow.
Eventually I will post my experiences with my new hardware and Linux Mint Xfce version 19.3 in this forum. Sorry for my late response!

 

[Count Arthur]

Hi mansr, thanks for your offer. Currently I am looking into new hardware to replace my 13 years old Vaio laptop because it really gets too slow.

Does it have an SSD in it?

If you want something just for a bit of internet browsing, maybe typing up the odd Word document and music playback, you really don't need much processor muscle to do this. Switching from a HDD, Hard Disk Drive, to a SSD, Solid State Drive will give a huge performance boost to older systems.

 

[Nicolaas]

Does it have an SSD in it?

If you want something just for a bit of internet browsing, maybe typing up the odd Word document and music playback, you really don't need much processor muscle to do this. Switching from a HDD, Hard Disk Drive, to a SSD, Solid State Drive will give a huge performance boost to older systems.

Hi Count Arthur, ca 2 weeks ago I ordered a Dell laptop with 500GB SSD and I5 1035G1 processor. However Dell is not able to deliver this laptop because several components are not available. Therefore I got my money back. Having read your advise I yesterday bought a Samsung QVO 1TB SSD drive for Eur 105,- and mounted it in my old Vaio laptop. Then I made a fresh install of Linix Mint Xfce v. 18.3. And I must say my Vaio is quite fast again right now. Also Audacious with ALSA plays great (as always) on my D90 DAC. So thanks for your advise! Cheers, Nicolaas

 

[Count Arthur]

You're very welcome.

Apologies if you know all about this already, but something else you can look at is your temperatures: http://wpitchoune.net/psensor/

Modern CPUs will boost to higher clock speeds if they are kept cool enough. Conversely, if they are too hot they will thermal throttle and reduce their clock speeds and lower the overall performance of the PC or laptop.

Laptops have very compact coolers and are at a dissadvantage when compared to desktop PCs to start with, they are also prone to getting full of dust and fluff, which chokes off the airflow and makes then run hotter.

It your laptop is not too bad you could just give it a quick blast through the case vents with an air duster: https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=air+duster&i=office-products&ref=nb_sb_noss. However, if it's really dirty and full of fluff and dust, you may want to open it up and clean it out more thoroughly with a brush, a small paint prush is ideal, and an air duster: