I wouldn't overlook this if I was about to choose:
www.audiosciencereview.com
I contemplated upgrading my package to their SP601 speaker/amp package, but I haven't been able to find anything on them aside from a factory youtube video. Were you able to get any additional details on them?
Might be worth applying something like Arctic Silver. It's used for CPUs and claims to have superior temp reduction capabilities than generic heatsink grease.
My thoughts exactly.I have an unopened tube sitting at home.
I used it exclusively when I was in my PC build days, even on GPU chips. It's shocking how terrible of a job most factory thermal grease applications are. Redoing it with Arctic Silver is cheap insurance, and it's application has always returned measurable improvements in my experience (easy to measure on a PC CPU/GPU).
I am guessing that since those power supplies are like a standard item for computers (I think??) integrating into a fairly larger enclosure might increase the cost more than we might think offhand. I'd be interested in @Fosi Audio's comments about that.
@amirm this should be titled "...dbW" at the top?
The graph shows Vrms.
I'll believe it's Vrms but unless I'm going blind it doesn't actually say that, like the one right below which says "(Watts)." ?!?
Correct. It's a graph with an unlabeled y-axis, which nonetheless shows Vrms.
For our V3 series, we will maintain the compact chassis design, but for other series, such as the ZA series, we will use larger enclosures.
This is a follow-up on the 48V/10A power supply. Our supplier Huntkey has provided us with a test report for this power supply, along with a video of the actual test, which you can review below. This power supply can indeed operate stably at a 10A current.
Assurance…. Excellent.This is a follow-up on the 48V/10A power supply. Our supplier Huntkey has provided us with a test report for this power supply, along with a video of the actual test, which you can review below. This power supply can indeed operate stably at a 10A current.
Noise & ripple test also included. @SMen
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Nope, not yet, so it’s a bit a jump in the dark.
Fantastic Fosi. Is it possible to share the full report? Thanks!This is a follow-up on the 48V/10A power supply. Our supplier Huntkey has provided us with a test report for this power supply, along with a video of the actual test, which you can review below. This power supply can indeed operate stably at a 10A current.
Noise & ripple test also included. @SMen
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But V3 is not like cpu that heatsink drops directly on top. Just like ZA3 that needs to slide to put in place. Thus rubbing the thermal paste and not maximizing it's heat desipitating quality.
I have seen a video with disassembly (Williston Audio Labs. You can see the thermal compound they used on the heat sink. It looks like there is enough clearance between the heatsink and enclosure. The appropriate contact is created when the two screws on the bottom of the case are tightened into the heatsink.
So that is interesting, thank you @Fosi Audio . It looks like noise @240Vac is much lower than spec. Excellent.This is a follow-up on the 48V/10A power supply. Our supplier Huntkey has provided us with a test report for this power supply, along with a video of the actual test, which you can review below. This power supply can indeed operate stably at a 10A current.
Noise & ripple test also included. @SMen
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No, it isn’t. The post I was responding to posited that biwiring speaker drivers using only the amp in a receiver would result in each driver performing more efficiently because it has a “dedicated source” (in this case, it’s not a separate source but instead a separate wire). However, that is not true. Take a basic Physics course to learn why.Apparently it is?
Bi-amping 101
This article provides a quick look at how bi-amplification works. The conventional scheme is to split the signal into two frequency bands before the power amplifiers that drive the speakers. The bass (LF) amp sees only LF signals and drives only the LF driver (woofer). The treble (HF) amp sees...Bi-amp, bi-wire, passive crossover & active crossover interaction
My background is pro audio, where bi/tri-amp is well known. It requires an active crossover, feeding separate amplifiers, such that each speaker (sub/woof/tweet) receives only it's intended frequency range. I see quite a few consumer loudspeakers with two sets of terminals that default to being...
