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Newbie Question: Can This Headphone Measurement Be Right?

Joined
Dec 14, 2024
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Hi everyone,

I’m relatively new to the HiFi world but have been learning the basics of REW (Room EQ Wizard) and feel reasonably comfortable with it. Today, I decided to try measuring a new pair of headphones (Sony Ultimate Wear) to better understand their performance.

However, I’m questioning whether my measurement results can even be correct. Here’s what I’ve done so far:

  • All EQ settings are turned off.
  • I tested both with and without ANC, and it doesn’t seem to make a big difference.
  • I used a UMIK-K1 microphone and ensured the ear cups were properly sealed during the measurement.
  • I also used the 0° calibration file for the microphone.
Am I possibly doing something wrong in my setup, or could these results be accurate?
Also, does anyone have a recommendation for a good EQ app for mobile phones that supports a fully configurable equalizer?

Any insights or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
 

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What is your measurement rig exactly? I'm assuming you've made a flat plate coupler but you haven't explained.

There is no "correct" with DIY measurements as there's no standard. Having a very well known benchmark with low unit variation like a HD600/650 helps (this is what I do).

That said, I don't know this headphone but a slope down from 20Hz to 20kHz seems like the sort of measurement you might get with a flat plate coupler.
 
Okay, maybe this is where the issue lies.

I simply pressed the ear cups together with the mic in the middle until they sealed.
But didnt used a Flat plate coupler.

Would it make sense to use some sort of an "artificial head" for these measurements? Or is there a somewhat cost-effective way to achieve similar results?
 
I simply pressed the ear cups together with the mic in the middle until they sealed.
OMG.

Would it make sense to use some sort of an "artificial head" for these measurements? Or is there a somewhat cost-effective way to achieve similar results?
I wouldn't bother at all. In fact, I would get rid of them altogether:

 
OMG.


I wouldn't bother at all. In fact, I would get rid of them altogether:

As I said, I’m relatively new to this and just thought I’d give it a try. Learned something new today! ^^
Why would you rate the Ultimate Wear so poorly?
When I compare the graph to something like the Sennheiser Momentum 4 or B&W PX7 S2e, which are often mention in this pricerange, it doesn’t look that worse, does it? Im happy for every Input that help me learn and understand this topic. I thaught with some EQ work i could fix that.
Or would you have a recommendation maximum €220-250 range? Wearing them for sportactivities and dont want to waste that much money for such an hard enviroment. The Ult Wear were very tempting at €115, which is why I gave them a shot.
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Why would you rate the Ultimate Wear so poorly?
The FR is a disaster. Harman's OE2018 target is already a bit bassy for me, and 10 dB more bass while the highs are equally lacking is a definite no-go. And if you use EQ, why then choose this particular model?

Or would you have a recommendation maximum €220-250 range?
I'm sorry to say I don't know much about this segment. But there are a lot of resources (including the squig.link database) that could help you decide which ANC headphones are worth it. I believe there should be something better in this price range.
 
Would it make sense to use some sort of an "artificial head" for these measurements? Or is there a somewhat cost-effective way to achieve similar results?
Useable headphone measurement rigs with KB500X clone pinnae and ra0045 clone couplers start from around $500-1000 and can be bought on AliExpress.

Cheaper setups (e.g. miniDSP EARS) can still be used to measure relative frequency response differences, like between headphone A and headphone B, or between Left and Right (channel balance), but they're not useful for judging frequency response neutrality because they do not sufficiently emulate the geometry and acoustical impedance of the human ear.
 
Okay, maybe this is where the issue lies.

I simply pressed the ear cups together with the mic in the middle until they sealed.
But didnt used a Flat plate coupler.

Would it make sense to use some sort of an "artificial head" for these measurements? Or is there a somewhat cost-effective way to achieve similar results?

Ah yes you are essentially creating a seal against the open cavity of the corresponding cup in that case. If you are also measuring both channels at once who knows what strange effect this will have.

It depends what you want to achieve: I don't think making a flat plate coupler is useful unless you have lots of headphones to measure, including some well known reference models like HD600/650.

On the other hand, it can be as simple as getting a roughly head sized box and cutting a hole for the mic.

Maybe start with measurements that others have already created on clone rigs, that will get you close to what you want I think: https://kuulokenurkka.squig.link/?share=High_Res_Harman_2018_Target,ULT_WEAR_(ANC_ON_&_ULT_OFF)_**
 
I would ask Solderdude from DIYaudioheaven, who often posts here on ASR. He uses flat baffle for measurements and specific correction curve. MiniDSP EARS is not that great and accurate especially compared to GRAS professional headphone measuring gear.
 
I would ask Solderdude from DIYaudioheaven, who often posts here on ASR. He uses flat baffle for measurements and specific correction curve. MiniDSP EARS is not that great and accurate especially compared to GRAS professional headphone measuring gear.
Learned, that there are no roomacoustics for Headphones. So i can just take any measurement from the Internet taken with a proper setup.

Anyway decided to upgrade to Bose Quiet comfort Ultra. Good decision for me ^^
 
Bose... I was gifted lightly used Bose NC700. Comparing to any other of my headphones, ATH-M50X and EQued BT version, plus HD 598, 58X, 6XX they sound ..., well they don't particularly impress. I briefly heard the Apple full size cans, and other V- signature I couldn't find too many faults. Attempts to EQ NC700 based on measurements posted on internet were not very successful. Bose driver's distortions are so high that they colour the sound too much, and you need to EQ for both freq. response and distortions. I haven't come across another headphone which other than freq response correction didn't sound more or less properly. Also the battery lasted only mere 16-18hrs, by contrast the M50XBT lasted around 35-40. Sure it has NC, but it didn't really my listening time that greatly. So unless Bose really, really improved, they are gone from my recommendation book if sound is your priority. Even when I worked with sound reinforcement Bose had always the opinion of being neither good sounding nor reliable, and guys would pick JBL, EV, etc. over Bose any day of the week. Just overpriced mid-fi not a real ProAudio equipment it supposed to be.
For. the price the Bose charges you can buy genuinely better product. I would read a lot of reviews and do serious research, try them before you buy them, before really committing to Bose.
Now I'm after really good, comfortable set of IEMs to complement my open back sets and a little more friendly and very light way of enjoying good sound while traveling (I have the original Samsung Galaxy Pro + Crinacle EQ, but they have tendency of sliding out from my ears when moving around, even with the very grippy but comfy Feaulle wide bore latex tips).
 
Compared them to xm4/xm5/Sennheiser Momentum 4
With and without eq adjustments for what I like.
Tests on Rtings seem pretty similar.
Sound was by far the best for my preference. But i never tested open Headphones.

Battery Was the worst with 16-21h but im honest, doens't rly matter to me.

Got a New paar for 250€

And some good in ears wont work for me. Cant get one to fit my ears. Got a surgery when i was a kid.
 
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