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bass guitar speaker cabinet

radix

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I'm in the market for a small-ish bass guitar amp. Given the prices, it seems like I could get an SB driver (e.g. SB34SWPL-76-4 12" or SB34SWNRX-S75) and a 100-150W (at 4ohm) class D amp and have a pretty flat 35 - 2kHz system, especially if it's a DSP amp. I use a dsp modeling pedal (line 6 hx stomp xl) with line out for all the character, I don't need an amp with a sound. I'm assuming that to capture 3rd harmonics, I'd need at least 1.6 kHz on the top end.

A 100W practice amp (e.g. rumble 100 or RB-112) is about $350 - $450.

It seems like for that price, I can get a lot more value out of an SB driver and class D amp. I'd maybe go with a crown XLS1002 (bridged), or an FA251 if I can find a deal on one.

Budget wise, I'd like to keep it around what I'd spend on one of those amps, so maybe $500 tops.

Any recommendations on this or other thoughts?
 
Those are hi-fi woofers, which are not suitable for bass-guitar. Sensitivity is low, but the most important is their inability to reach high enough in frequency.
This is frequency response of a real bass-driver (Jensen BS 10N/250) for bass guitar:
ZJ05810-1.jpg

I built a bass-guitar combo with above driver and the results are phenomenal, according to several bass-guitar players.
Choose bass-driver to your taste from this page: https://sica.it/jensen/
 
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I'm in the market for a small-ish bass guitar amp. Given the prices, it seems like I could get an SB driver (e.g. SB34SWPL-76-4 12" or SB34SWNRX-S75) ...

Any recommendations on this or other thoughts?

Those are low-efficiency subwoofers. Wrong tool for the job imo.
 

Thanks, that was a big help. Looks like I'll be building the large vented :)

At 20.8 sqft of surface area, that would be about 40 lb in plywood (at 1.9 lb/sqft), not including the driver (9 lb). Maybe a large cabinet is not what I want :(

The small vented is 13.7 sqft, so 26 lb plywood, or about 35 lb total. I think the small vented in plywood is more in the ballpark of what I'd want to move around!

Should I be adding a wool or foam liner? I don't think stuffing is needed with a QL 7 cabinet?
 
@radix , if weight is an issue, you might consider the Eminence Kappalite 3012LF. Let me know what your lowest tuning is (low B, low E, whatever) and I can suggest a box size and tuning frequency.

I make these, Kappalite 3012LF plus a small cone mid:

Hathor1203Front-001.JPG
 
Do a search for "stage monitor" or "floor monitor" and if you can try some at a retailer. Since you are modelling everything on the modeller, you just need a "flattish" amp & speaker combo to monitor the modeller with a good "bass" response. A bass amp or cab will add its own character, you may choose to disable cab model but I think the cab model probably has a better sound than a simple practise amp.
 
@radix , if weight is an issue, you might consider the Eminence Kappalite 3012LF. Let me know what your lowest tuning is (low B, low E, whatever) and I can suggest a box size and tuning frequency.

I make these, Kappalite 3012LF plus a small cone mid:

View attachment 340636

I play 4-string, so low-E, though I might tune down a few semitones, slow low-C or D now and then, but shooting for low-E is OK.

I was looking at the Eminence BGH258 supertweeter for the 1k - 5k range, but am open to suggestions.

Do a search for "stage monitor" or "floor monitor" and if you can try some at a retailer. Since you are modelling everything on the modeller, you just need a "flattish" amp & speaker combo to monitor the modeller with a good "bass" response. A bass amp or cab will add its own character, you may choose to disable cab model but I think the cab model probably has a better sound than a simple practise amp.

That's why I was thinking of a Crown XLS1002 amp. I can get them for about $280, which is pretty much what a TC Electronics or similar small head would cost. And the Crown has a DSP to flatten the sound and do a crossover between the woofer and a mid/tweeter.
 
I play 4-string, so low-E, though I might tune down a few semitones, slow low-C or D now and then, but shooting for low-E is OK.

I was looking at the Eminence BGH258 supertweeter for the 1k - 5k range, but am open to suggestions.



That's why I was thinking of a Crown XLS1002 amp. I can get them for about $280, which is pretty much what a TC Electronics or similar small head would cost. And the Crown has a DSP to flatten the sound and do a crossover between the woofer and a mid/tweeter.

I would suggest about 1.2 cubic feet net internal volume (or about 1.3 cubic feet inclusive of driver and port) for the 3012LF, tuned to the mid-40's ballpark. This "lower than theoretically optimum" tuning results in a tighter low end, so you can play the notes faster without the low end turning into a wall of mud. Also if your low end is too big you could end up "stepping on" the kickdrum.

I suggest a 3 diameter Precision Port, 6" long, so just the outer and inner flares and a coupling ring (no straight tube section). This will tune the box to about 45 Hz. Put the port on the back of the cabinet right smack behind the woofer's motor, so that airflow through the port helps with cooling, when the day comes that you have to push the cab pretty hard. You only need about an inch or so of clearance behind the motor thanks to the inner flare.

If you go this route with the port, you might want to toss a 3" diameter expandable plumber's test plug in your gig bag. If you ever have to play in a really boomy situation (like shoved into the corner at a wedding gig), you can plug the port and have a very tight-low-end sealed box. Something like this, showing one with port open and one with port plugged, and you can see the back of the motor through the upper port:

Hathor 1203 x 2 back.JPG



I have no specific opinion on the tweeter. I don't use that type of tweeter so I don't have experience with them, but obviously I like Eminence stuff for this application.

That 1.7 kHz peak in the 3012LF is desirable for electric bass if you want to "sit well in the mix" and be heard clearly. Let me explain: Guitar speakers typically have elevated response in the 2-4 kHz region, so THAT region belongs to THEM. If you are loud in that region, you risk instigating a volume war. BUT most guitar speakers have a dip in between 1 and 2 kHz, usually around 1.5 to 1.8 kHz. That dip is a WINDOW OF OPPORTUNITY for the bass to have a bit of growl without intruding on the guitar. Feel free to experiment with equalizing away the 3012LF's upper peak, you might prefer it that way, but don't automatically do so because you think "flat response" is desirable for a bass cab. Ime it is not, UNLESS you are amplifying upright bass OR performing solo.

Best of luck with your project.
 
I would suggest about 1.2 cubic feet net internal volume (or about 1.3 cubic feet inclusive of driver and port) for the 3012LF, tuned to the mid-40's ballpark. This "lower than theoretically optimum" tuning results in a tighter low end, so you can play the notes faster without the low end turning into a wall of mud. Also if your low end is too big you could end up "stepping on" the kickdrum.

I suggest a 3 diameter Precision Port, 6" long, so just the outer and inner flares and a coupling ring (no straight tube section). This will tune the box to about 45 Hz. Put the port on the back of the cabinet right smack behind the woofer's motor, so that airflow through the port helps with cooling, when the day comes that you have to push the cab pretty hard. You only need about an inch or so of clearance behind the motor thanks to the inner flare.

Thank you, this is super helpful. I'll give this a shot and see how it comes out.

Which mid do you use?

Do you use wool or foam to line the inside, or leave it unlined? For the tweeter, do you use a passive crossover, or something active outside the cabinet?

I'll run this through a speaker cad program too and see what it says.
 
Thank you, this is super helpful. I'll give this a shot and see how it comes out.

Which mid do you use?

Do you use wool or foam to line the inside, or leave it unlined? For the tweeter, do you use a passive crossover, or something active outside the cabinet?

I'll run this through a speaker cad program too and see what it says.

With the 3012LF I use the Faital 3FE22. Passive crossover, switchable frequency response.

I cover about 1/4 of the interior surface area with 1" thick "mattress topper" foam. Ime too much internal damping material starts to "suck the life" out of the sound.
 
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