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Reliability and build quality of Chinese Vs. Western Amps and DACs? Can you reliably get 15+ years out of a Topping Stack? Or SMSL? Singxer?

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Quinton595

Quinton595

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The serviceability of multilayer printed circuit boards of recent years with 90%+ SMD components and BGA chips is practically zero.
You initially make a choice of quality, or throw it away in case of breakdown after warranty.

Here's what I consider a 100% serviceable board:
View attachment 366535
Oh man, that's beautiful to me. I've used some PCB prototyping boards before when making some photography lights... I don't know what it is, but the perfect grid alignment of components just makes my brain feel like its getting a nice itch scratched.

I'd love to know which stack you guys would vote for, for me. I think I'm just trying to choose between the JDS Element III Mk 2, and a Modius / Jotunheim 2 stack from Schiit.

 

johny_2000

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I don't know what it is, but the perfect grid alignment of components just makes my brain feel like its getting a nice itch scratched.
This is Dolby's first product, the model A301, 1966. Used a circuit design that reduced tape noise by compressing and then expanding audio signals.
20240301_144355.jpg
 

wwenze

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The serviceability of multilayer printed circuit boards of recent years with 90%+ SMD components and BGA chips is practically zero.
You initially make a choice of quality, or throw it away in case of breakdown after warranty.

Here's what I consider a 100% serviceable board:
View attachment 366535
But if that board spoils do you know how to fix it :D

Repairability is a balance between production cost savings / design requirements and repair costs. In a world where wages are $300 a day and housing costs 1/4 of that, spending time to repair has poor economics, not to mention the logistical costs which are getting high. Make something small and dump it even before it fails. Bad for the planet, but when people are struggling to survive while being packed in sardine subways only those with the time and money can take a plane to NYC to say "how dare you".
 

MaxwellsEq

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No, that is me. I have always maintained threads on ASR, Head-Fi, and Reddit.

The three communities are very different from one another, as each values different things. ASR values objectivity and measurements, Head-Fi values subjectivity and experiences, and Reddit values frugality and is more of an "everyman" forum. Each has provided interesting and unique insight to the various threads and questions I have posted over the last few weeks.

While the three forums often disagree strongly with each other, there are also areas in which all three forums achieve total consensus. It is this consensus that is most useful. By cross-referencing these three bodies of audio enthusiasts against each other, I am able to more rigorously identify what is actually true.

For example, while Head-Fi is very strongly in the camp of believing that different amps and DACs can impart totally different sound signatures to a given pair of headphones, with different "synergies" and such, ASR tends to be a lot more skeptical of that, so long as we're talking about competently-made products with good SINADs and other such measurements. However, both forums agree strongly that "balanced" audio is little more than a marketing gimmick for most use-cases, and that any well-produced piece of source equipment should run just fine, whether balanced, or single-ended.

All three forums have been very useful to me.
Balanced working for line-level and lower interconnects is always measurably beneficial. This is how all studios are wired - to eliminate the risk of ground loops and to minimise noise. I don't know any engineer or academic who doesn't think this is the case. Whether it's necessary at home depends on the local environment.

"Balanced headphone" working is wrongly named and (except for one or two rare, extreme headphones) is not necessary unless the headphone amplifier is insufficiently powerful when operated single ended.
 

solderdude

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In its boosted configuration, it should have enough power for the HD800s with a - 15 dB preamp EQ, at 115dB peak output.
With -15dB pre-amp it is paramount you buy an amplifier that has a high gain option IF you want to play loud every now and then.
So a +10 to +15dB gain setting at least.

Longevity and build quality will be very similar. Longevity is a matter of being lucky and a good volume control and audio related switches/relays.
As with any new design only time will tell if you made the correct call.
 

Willem

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I truly hate the way it looks
I quite like the looks: it is small, fairly minimalist, and the tactile quality is just perfect. Add a modern class D power amplifier with auto on/off that you can locate in a cupboard and you have a nearly invisible system. And as for the screen, I find it very useful, but you can change the colour or turn it off if you want to.
 

somebodyelse

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There's a clue right there. Buy something like that from the used market.

It's from an era when they cared about how long it would last and built it accordingly. And the sound quality is just as good as the modern stuff.
The 'bathtub curve' of device failures is also a factor. The old ones on the used market now are the ones that made it past the 'early failure' stage. If you're lucky they haven't reached the 'late failure' rise yet, but they might be approaching it. Old PROMs losing their programming is a problem for older kit with microprocessors. I know some in the radio community are trying to archive good firmware images so failed ones can be repaired, but I haven't heard of an equivalent in audio circles.
 

MRC01

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... In its boosted configuration, it should have enough power for the HD800s with a - 15 dB preamp EQ, at 115dB peak output.

With -15dB pre-amp it is paramount you buy an amplifier that has a high gain option IF you want to play loud every now and then.
So a +10 to +15dB gain setting at least.
...
I missed this. How does the HD800 need 15 dB for EQ? From what I've seen, all it needs is -4 dB Q=2 around 5.5 kHz to flatten the spike, and a +6 dB Q=0.5 low shelf from around 120 Hz to lift the attenuated bass. Roughly speaking, that is, a simple 2 band parametric EQ, overall -6 dB gain.
 

Mart68

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The 'bathtub curve' of device failures is also a factor. The old ones on the used market now are the ones that made it past the 'early failure' stage. If you're lucky they haven't reached the 'late failure' rise yet, but they might be approaching it. Old PROMs losing their programming is a problem for older kit with microprocessors. I know some in the radio community are trying to archive good firmware images so failed ones can be repaired, but I haven't heard of an equivalent in audio circles.
Yeah nothing lasts forever but most proper amps and pre-amps from the last century can be repaired - were designed to be repaired.

Plus it's so much cheaper than buying new you can get a back-up one for whilst the first is in the shop.

New preamps have screens (for no good reason) and choc full of stuff to go wrong which either can't be fixed or would be uneconomic to fix Just like modern cars.

Landfill in under 20 years whilst classic Yamaha et al will sail on gloriously into the next century.
 

CedarX

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I'd love to know which stack you guys would vote for, for me. I think I'm just trying to choose between the JDS Element III Mk 2, and a Modius / Jotunheim 2 stack from Schiit.
So now that the poll is closed, what did you buy in the end?
 

Rolls

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For what it’s worth, I have owned a Topping D20 DAC since 2014 and it’s still going strong.
 
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