Recent content by TimW

Originally there was the Wiim Ultra which is a Streamer/DAC/Preamp. It had no amplifier built in. Now Wiim has come out with the Wiim Amp Ultra which is like the original Ultra but with an amplifier added. This new Amp version loses the Phono Input, Line Output, Optical Output, Coaxial Output...

There is no danger in connecting pre-outs to line level inputs. The subwoofer's line level inputs are intended to be used with a variable pre-out so that its volume can be controlled with the main speakers. They just refer to this input as "line level" to differentiate it from "speaker level"...

How are you comparing the HDMI and Coaxial outputs directly if you can't connect the HDMI output to your amplifier?

Thanks, I did put the crossover board through the woofer cutout. With that size of perf board and the zip ties it just barely fit. I wouldn't be surprised if sonic barrier is measurably superior to the light batting installed from the factory in these speakers. With that being said the factory...

Thank you @AL B BACH and @BoysRBackinTown I did this mod myself using a Parts Express 3.5" x 5" perforated board and an XT30 connector so that the crossover could be mounted to the original binding post plate. Just for clarity, this replacement crossover was designed by Dennis Murphy for use...

Based on the AVS Forum posts linked there, I believe this crossover is for the Peerless tweeter:

About to do this mod myself. Here is the best consolidation of information about it.

Check out WiSa

Not necessarily, usually the voltage gain is lower for balanced inputs vs single ended inputs so the volume would be the same. Does your system not get loud enough currently? I wasn't happy with the Wiim room correction when I tried it, but you have taken the extra step of using an external...

The USB connection the OP is referring to is the Wiim Ultra's output. The Ultra can output high-passed signal for main speakers from its analog, coaxial, toslink or USB port. It has no USB input. The OP can use any of these with their existing DAC, the toslink at least solves the ground loop...

From the review of that Polk subwoofer: As the reviewer states, this is the typical peaked response you get from entry level subwoofers. You can EQ it flat in the room but the drop-off in response below 30Hz would be hard to correct for. Here is the AH review of the HSU sub I own ($689.00)...

What about the Mechano23? There are many people posting their builds here

Right now the cool new products to recommend are AsciLab F6B speakers (about the same price as the ELAC) and the Wiim Amp Pro which gives you HDMI ARC for your TV and Spotify Connect for music.

The subjective sound quality descriptions coming from an algorithm that can't actually hear is hilarious to me

A speaker with ARC and HDMI-CEC is nice because the TV will be able to control its volume and also turn it on and off. With BT you would have to turn the speaker on and off manually or leave it on all the time. What brands are commonly available to you in your area? ELAC? KEF? Kanto? Neumi...