I own both a miniDSP Flex 8 and a Flex Digital (both with Dirac). I think what I really want is a Flex Balanced. I was thinking that I could go from the Flex Digital into a pair of balanced DACs. Might just make more sense to sell both current Flex units and my current DAC and just get a Flex...
The miniDSP Flex has digital outs for Ch1&2 and Ch3&4, respectively. If one were to want to use this as an electronic crossover in a biamplification situation, it would seem you needed two different DACs, right? Would it be expected that the timing b/w the two DACs (let's say they are the exact...
So, this brings me to "I'd probably be fine with Fosi" while at the same time "just avoid further / future questions by going to NCoreX/Purifi now". I'm not sure I'm a whole lot closer to my decision...but that is entirely my fault :p . Thanks for help all the same (everybody!).
Thanks for the rather helpful reply. I think my question might have been better stated. There is certainly a region where some people are going to hear a difference between two amplifiers and others won't. There is also a region in which you wouldn't reasonably expect anyone* to hear...
I'm weighing options for which new amplifier(s) to purchase. The budget option is Fosi v3 or ZA3. The more expensive option would be an Ncore/NcoreX/Purifi amp (from Buckeye). Obviously the latter would have more power and is technically superior. It seems that a v3 of a couple of ZA3 should...
Well, a few quick and concise answers. Very helpful. Thanks! I have a miniDSP Flex8 w/ DIRAC, Umik1, and a selection of subs. I've learned that I can elicit dramatic improvements in how some speakers sound in my room while others don't change much. Just now finding out about spin data. My...
I'm guessing this has been discussed before here but my search Kung-Fu is apparently not up to snuff. I'll frame this question as follows:
The spinorama.org rankings show that, with EQ and Sub, the $100 Polk XT15 and $75 Micca RB42 perform slightly better than the $5000
Dutch Dutch 8C. I'm...
While I don't understand the details nearly as well as some here quite obviously do...No, that doesn't sound like a good idea. I recently let go of a set of B&W DM2000 which had a rather busy crossover that, among other things, appeared to be drawing power for an LED. That struck me as suspect...
Are you sure about that? Are they not using the voltage drop across a diode to provide a charge (in lieu of a battery)?
JBL 4367 XO images
and
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/charge-coupling-crossover-without-a-battery.532863/
Also, I found this. Seems relevant given that the alleged benefit of charge coupling of caps is related (I think) to dielectric absorption.
https://sound-au.com/articles/capacitors.htm#s11
Hey, thanks all for your thoughtful responses! I think you've helped me decide to simply build with decent (but not absurdly expensive) poly caps. No batteries or diodes.
Yup, that's more or less what I'm talking about. Folks are now building charge coupled crossovers that are using poly caps throughout. Those caps should already be miles ahead of the lytics that Timbers was using. Nevertheless, the folks with golden ears are claiming improvements. The more...
You may be right. At that point though, I'd just leave it as is and pass it along to one of those purists. I see no reason to mangle a collector's item when excellent modern speakers can be built or bought.