SMSL D12 DAC & Headphone Amp Review

[tbob22]

Does anyone know if it's possible to use Bluetooth and the USB input simultaneously on this unit?

 

[pmar4015]

I tell ya I had one hell of a time figuring out how to achieve output when using the SMSL D12 connected to my Mac Mini M1. I must have read the instructions 5 times to no avail. I finally stumbled upon a setting (purely by luck) using the included remote control that solved the problem. Apparently, the default mode is L-0 and in order to achieve output with the headphones I am using (i.e. OneOdio Studio 10) L-0 must be changed to H-0. As such, does anyone know what aforementioned settings mean/are for......again, I couldn't any mention in the instructions?

Also, there is a setting to change G-H/G-L; I have tried both modes and cannot discern a difference but out of curiosity does anyone know what this setting means as well?

Thanks

 

[staticV3]

Apparently, the default mode is L-0 and in order to achieve output with the headphones I am using (i.e. OneOdio Studio 10) L-0 must be changed to H-0. As such, does anyone know what aforementioned settings mean/are for......again, I couldn't any mention in the instructions?

L-O = Line Out
H-O = Headphone Out

Also, there is a setting to change G-H/G-L; I have tried both modes and cannot discern a difference but out of curiosity does anyone know what this setting means as well?

G-L = Gain Low
G-H = Gain High

This setting determines the gain of the built-in headphone Amp.
High Gain will give you higher maximum volume.

 

[pmar4015]

L-O = Line Out
H-O = Headphone Out


G-L = Gain Low
G-H = Gain High

This setting determines the gain of the built-in headphone Amp.
High Gain will give you higher maximum volume.

Of course! Very much apprdciated

 

[Anonymous One]

As I'm new to the forum, first I'd like to say hello... so hello to everyone

I was interested in the D12 model but I have one question for you, I wanted to buy a D12 which costs €125 in Europe for the PS5 console, but now you can get a C200 on Amazon with a discount coupon for €164. If the C200 does not work under the console, I still have the option of connecting it to the TV, which option do you think is more profitable? d12 supposedly has newer chips, but will it be that noticeable?
Thx for your help

 

[pseudoid]

G-L = Gain Low
G-H = Gain High

Every "Gain" stage always comes with its own complexities; in the form of unwanted/undesired (noise, distortion, etc.) effects on the intentional signal being amplified.
"Gain High" makes all such complexities exponentially "higher".

 

[Nutul]

Does anyone know if it's possible to use Bluetooth and the USB input simultaneously on this unit?

Some time passed...

I smell karaoke...
I believe that is not possible, after all it's just having 2 inputs at the same time; I haven't heard of any DAC/AMP allowing for that.
Use a mixer/DAW on your PC. Or an audio interface, like a MOTU M2, or a Focusrite 2i2

 

[Brahmabull]

Has anyone tried powering this with a separate USB power source? Currently just using the USB in for power and input. Sounds fine, but wondering if I should go separate??

 

[pseudoid]

Has anyone tried powering this with a separate USB power source? Currently just using the USB in for power and input. Sounds fine, but wondering if I should go separate??

That will depend on the "DC 5V In" supply that you are feeding it with:

 

[Brahmabull]

That will depend on the "DC 5V In" supply that you are feeding it with:
View attachment 344795

Meaning use something less than 10W?

 

[staticV3]

Meaning use something less than 10W?

Your power supply should be able to supply 10W or more, to ensure that current won't be a limiting factor.

If your power supply can supply 300W+, then that's fine as well.
The D12 will only draw as much current as it needs.

 

[pseudoid]

I think you can pick-up one of those Kill-A-Watt wall socket plug-ins for under $20.
It will tell you exactly how much you are drawing from the wall power (Volts/Amps/Watts/Wh, etc.).
But one of the least discussed feature is the PowerFactor (PF) read-out of that meter.
It is never discussed when talks turn to AC-MAINs connected power converting gizmos.

...If your power supply can supply 300W+, then that's fine as well.

Generally, such use may not be recommended (depending on the type/Class of amplification); but (similar to PF reading) conversion efficiency, cost of electricity, and environmental impact may need due consideration.

 

[unibomber]

Can anyone tell me where to draw + and - for 5v? I want to add a fan. Thanks in advance.

 

[pseudoid]

[1]Can anyone tell me [2]where to draw + and - for 5v? [3]I want to add a fan....

Welcome aboard, uniB,
[1]Probably many of us.
[2]A power-supply is usually the best bet, followed probably by a USB wall-wart?
[3]You do realize w/adding a fan, also comes w/added noise?
Don't be shy with words, so that you can receive the proper answer.

 

[unibomber]

Welcome aboard, uniB,
[1]Probably many of us.
[2]A power-supply is usually the best bet, followed probably by a USB wall-wart?
[3]You do realize w/adding a fan, also comes w/added noise?
Don't be shy with words, so that you can receive the proper answer.

This DAC is in my car for hires audio. It gets hot and when the DAC heats up, it makes some weird electronic noise through the speakers until it cools off. I have a 5v 30mmx7mm thick can I want to use. Noise doesn't bother me as my stereo is loud lol

 

[pseudoid]

This DAC is in my car for hires audio. It gets hot and when the DAC heats up, it makes some weird electronic noise through the speakers until it cools off. I have a 5v 30mmx7mm thick can I want to use. Noise doesn't bother me as my stereo is loud lol

Will you be doing a few cut-outs on the SMSL case for this fan?
You can always find the equivalent fan (brushless?) with 12Vdc input; so that you can feed the car battery power to it.

 

[unibomber]

Will you be doing a few cut-outs on the SMSL case for this fan?
You can always find the equivalent fan (brushless?) with 12Vdc input; so that you can feed the car battery power to it.

Yes I would be drilling holes. I'll look into the 12v ones but I was wanting to use the power from the DAC as it it's hooked to auto on off with the car and the fan would be inside with the wires. I'll ha e to check the underside with multimeter

 

[pseudoid]

Yes I would be drilling holes.

Since you are thinking to open it up, would it be prudent for you to get an IR thermometer and determine where the "hot spots" on the board are?
So that you can locate the fan/holes in manner that properly optimizes the airflow over the hottest devices on the PCB...