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To any of the folk who have by-passed the volume control (to make it a straight amp) are the pins jumpered just directly across from one side to the other of the pot? The odd pin out must be a grounding pin I'm presuming. Thanks, Pete

Giofala: you've done a great initial removal step. I just melt the chipquik into each pin (after removing as much of the original solder as possible; a desoldering station can be used for the initial process) but I then leave the chipquik there through the rest of the removal process. Adding...

No need to cut the pins actually. After removing the inside frame from the chassis just clean away the black coating from around the solder joints ( the black coating just gums up soldering tips badly in my experience). Use solderwick braid to remove most of the solder around each pin (don't...

I'm running gamerpaddy's modules (one sided & DIP8; 8 ohm speakers) and there really is no reason to put heatsinks on the op-amps...they really don't run that hot when music is playing through them. I know the heat pictures make it look like they're burning hot but they are within range of heat...

Thanks...the diy community has always been supportive and helpful. I'm appreciative of the comradery. Maybe I just have a soldering addiction..LOL

Has anyone done a poll to find out if a greater number of failures occurred with people driving 4 ohm speakers versus 8 ohm ones?

Hopefully I won't be dead by then...LOL Cheers

Agreed jmiliar...It is a phenomenal sounding Class D at this price point, and slightly above. Their chemists/chemical engineers really failed them on this one....or was it their patent attorneys?

I don't want to open the flood gates here (it's just me), and I'm only offering this to folk in the USA (and members of this forum), but if you'd like me to do the gamerpaddy fix on your broken PA5 just PM me and we can work something out. I've done it on my PA5 and it works fine. Again, it's...

So I guess you never tried fixing them with gamerpaddy's module?

Daniboun, I applaud all the work you do introducing the community to the range Class D amps, and possible modifications to said units, but I'll have to disagree with your statement about the 3E amps. I've owned several of them (w/wo PFFB) and for all the power they can crank out, yes with...

Don't know what billydylan's issues were but one of the complaints about the unit was when you connected it to a coaxial output from a number on CD players the analog signal output to the preamp/amp would skip/jitter.

So I was intrigued by the reviews on this amp and finally bought a used (working) one on Fleabay. Took out the potted circuit and put in one of gamerpaddy's circuits, put in riser panels so I could quickly switch future boards if necessary and put his replacement board in. Sounds just like the...

There has been the theory put forth, by a chap named gamerpaddy (who also created a fix for the infamous black, potted circuit), that it wasn't really the heat, per se, that killed the SMD components (directly) on the board but it was the expansion & contraction of the resin heating up that was...

I've been playing my PA5 (I bought it used on Fleabay) with gamerpaddiy's single sided replacement board now for a good week or two and I'll admit the PA5 is really a wonderful sounding inexpensive Class D amp, even using the powerbrick that came with it. It doesn't have that flat sounding...

Just wanted to inform you all of my experience with using the 3eAudio 46V SMPS that I bought a few years ago. I also bought a 3eAudio 3255 based amp (like the picture in the original posting) as well as one of 3eAudio's 36V SMPS (all purchased on 3e's website). BTW, the 46V version is no...