Recent content by sumitagarwal

Just a little work-in-progress update. Duct liner not yet added to the wall...

Hah, I'll read that one day. For a time I was considering open baffle speakers and subs, particularly JBL's Synthesis line, but now that I've got all these Genelec speakers and HSU subs I'm going to stay the course for at least V 1.0 of this theater...

Picture the same thing but with the rear flush against gypsum board and the surrounding embedded in duct liner. Genelec told me to expect similar performance to the 8050B, which Amir reviewed here...

Mocking up a test in the living room since the theater is under construction and full of dust. The rods may not have the most rigidity, but the speakers will be pressed against a solid wall with duct liner on all sides.

I'm also hoping that the 4" of duct liner across the front wall will work as a bit of a bass trap. As I understand it the wide length and tall height of it will allow it to absorb lower than 4" normally would. EDIT TO ADD: Would it work to put a thin wood veneer (what Grimani calls thin wood...

Thanks for the link! Good read, and especially interesting the idea that as you move the speaker closer to the wall (and eventually into it) you move the problems up in frequency until you reach frequencies where they are more easily dealt with. Since these speakers are less than 4" deep I was...

Are you saying have the speakers either protruding from the wall at 15 degrees, or recessed into the wall at 15 degrees? I think in both cases the issue is diffraction, maybe some other things too?

Not exactly the same question, but I had asked Genelec about mounting the speakers *onto* the wall instead of *inside* the wall, and I got this interesting response: You can expect very similar results. The monitors can be installed directly on the wall because their reflex ports are on the...

I'm now looking into mounting my speakers into tension rods and actually attaching a baffle surface to it. This looks interesting and should clamp strong enough to create a rigid structure? And it's also interesting that it allows for tilting in case the speakers need to be tilted downwards to...

I've been struggling to figure out how best to incorporate a 15 degree toe in for adding "wings" to my existing wall as a baffle wall for my theater, and ultimately found myself thinking: why not just put the speakers in a free-standing acoustic panel as a baffle instead? I'm looking at this 4"...

Thanks, very helpful. I can potentially put a third sub in the side wall in a similar location to what you've done. However, I'm hoping I can build a riser with some venting in it to do it under there. Nothing fancy, just conventional sub under the riser.

Thanks. Backup plan is two additional subs under the second row riser. Thoughts?

And a slight update: this design puts swaps the extra layer of 5/8" (with Green Glue) from the back of the wall to the front of the wall to 1) provide more rigidity to the front wall especially around the center speaker and 2) slightly break up the horn-iness of the concave front wall.

So here's my front wall design... this image has Monolith subs but sized to VTF-15H MK2 since I couldn't find a head-on image of the VTF

Agreed