@JohnYang1997
I'm using a dac/amp which has quite strong residual 384khz switching noise, would this pose an issue at all if I were to use it as a source for the L30?
I mean, a fair number of devices can definitely push 131mW at 35 ohms as that's ~2.2v with that load(not to say there aren't a lot of devices with very anemic outputs!). Despite what many reviewers say, HE-400i's are not hugely difficult to power and I've definitely enjoyed them on my old LG...
The HE-400i has a sensitivity of 93.82 dB/mW SPL, so to get to 115 db SPL (very loud!) you would need an amplifier that could provide 131 mW at 35 ohms.
2w would probably destroy the drivers, or at the very least your ears as 120 db SPL would only require ~430 mW and that is definitely too...
This is completely incorrect, the only thing that dictates how high voltage you can run is the architecture and luck. If going past a certain voltage or clock speed causes instability it always will and no amount of "burn-in" will fix that.
I'd definitely be up for trying if poss, already using EqualizerAPO but this is a pretty cool sounding solution to make it easier for hoarders to EQ haha.
I'm currently switching between HE-400i's, Takstar Pro 82's and ATH-M50x's.
Mastodon - Crack the Skye
Opeth - Ghost of Perdition
Tool - Lateralus
Intronaut - Habitual Levitations
I could name a lot more off, but these are the ones off the top of my head that have a clear, detailed mix & lots of dynamic range. Usually when you get into the sub-genres of metal you...
I've always preferred progressive & jazz influenced metal on headphones, just because with a nice pair of cans you get that great critical listening aspect. Thrash & death metal is always fun to blast on whatever speakers with a tight, punchy low-end.
Good meme right there.
Yeah, unfortunately a LOT of gear doesn't match rated spec, and this site is here to simply be a discussion on audio engineering and to verify the design of products.
Mind you, yeah if you're picking up something for cheap (phone dongle) who cares, you just want something that doesn't sound...
To verify they have proper engineering and a well thought out design? Why would you want to pay for a DAC full of distortion products and noise from a poorly verified design when you can buy an objectively better performing device? (usually cheaper too!)