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220V amplifier in 110V country... oops!

Speedskater

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The reason for a 4 wire 240 Volt circuit (Hot a, Hot b, Neutral & Safety Ground) is:
There may be 120 Volt circuits, lights or receptacles in the appliance.
 

sam_adams

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There are many buck/boost transformers on Amazin'. Most of them claim overly-optimistic, multi-kilowatt ratings. This one comes with an enthusiastically approving girlfriend—at least according to the video. Few—if any—are UL/ETL/CE/CSA certified. If you must, use at your own peril.
 

Zapper

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There are many buck/boost transformers on Amazin'. Most of them claim overly-optimistic, multi-kilowatt ratings. This one comes with an enthusiastically approving girlfriend—at least according to the video. Few—if any—are UL/ETL/CE/CSA certified. If you must, use at your own peril.
Buck/boost refers to a specific switched mode power supply topology. These are just autotransformers.
 

sam_adams

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Cool. That's the first time I've seen "buck-boost" applied to transformers, and I've design buck-boost SMPSs. But how is "buck-boost" different from "step-up/down", which is the terminology I'm familiar with?

It's pretty much the same, just colloquial use terminology-wise. Technically, a buck/boost transformer is supposed to be used to adjust minor differences in input/output voltages but can be used to "pump" the output higher. Say if you needed 208V with a 220V line input (buck) or 220V from a 208V line (boost). The big ones are always multi-tap and require knowledge of how to wire them correctly. Phased wrong, copious amounts of magic smoke can be produced.
 

solderdude

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Open the lid.
Set the internal voltage selector switch (near the backside) to 110V and you're done.
Don't forget to write on the back it is a 110V version now.
 
OP
M

mike7877

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Domestic power only uses 2 phases 180 degrees apart. If one phase is 120V, phase to phase is 240V.

Commercial 3-phase power has 3 phases 120 degrees apart. If each phase is 120V, phase to phase is 208V.

I would proceed as follows:
  1. Check the back of the amp for the voltage selector switch as shown by @sam_adams. If it has one, switch it to 115V.
  2. If not #1, open the cover and examine the power path between line in and the transformer. Can the wiring be changed as per the schematic shown in Sam Adam's comment? If so, get out the soldering iron and do it.
  3. Don't want to solder? Then do your 240V extension idea. I don't know if it meets code or not, but there is no issue with the amplifier. The voltage is applied across the primary windings, and the primary doesn't care if the power is line to line or line to neutral. Line to line is balanced, so it is less likely than line to neutral (unbalanced) to cause hum.

Domestic power in Canada can be 3 phases - it's especially common in apartment buildings (a lot of them), and, less commonly, subdivisions (for balance, some houses get 1&2, others 2&3, and others still get 1&3) . Basically to see if I have 180, the way to tell is the two hots from the dryer plug will measure twice a single phase, and 120 will measure single phase (eg. 117.2V) doubled, multiplied by 208 / 240.

180 deg Voltage
117.2V * 2 = 234.4 V

120 deg Voltage

117.2V * 2 * (208 / 240) = 203.2V will measure to see that whatever I get from the 240V outlet is double of a single phase.

I think you didn't answer part of my question because you thought it wasn't possible to have 3 phase at home. But since it is where I am (100% sure- my last oven had 208V/240V on its sticker...)
Basically the question was would the virtual neutral (I don't know what you'd call it...) created from floating the transformer across phases start jumping around +-~40-50V?
 
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mike7877

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Open the lid.
Set the internal voltage selector switch (near the backside) to 110V and you're done.
Don't forget to write on the back it is a 110V version now.

:eek: there's an internal switch?!

I'm not home, but I'm excited to check that now!
 

Count Arthur

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:eek: there's an internal switch?!

I'm not home, but I'm excited to check that now!
Looks like it:

1707221850159.png


1707221936257.jpeg
 
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mike7877

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1707221960708.png

For a future project I need 30W @ 240VAC. I bought the above early to try something out. Specifically, I was curious how using it would affect the A18's power factor, measured at the wall (this loosely represents the quality of the waveform the A18 receives)

Plugged in with effectively no adapter, the A18's power factor is 0.80

When this little thing is put in its path, power factor at the wall is 0.76

On the A18's rear, consumption is listed as 350 watts. Since W isn't always VA, and definitely isn't when it comes to transformers in audio amplifiers , I'll extrapolate (re: all the other amplifiers/AVRs/schtuff I've ever seen - stuff designed by courteous people who decided to include all the pertinent facts!)

My Arcam A18 toroidal transformer VA rating approximation: 470VA to 500VA

This "70WATT Max" (lol) device (which measures 2 inches wide 3 inches tall, and maybe 1 and 3/4 deep), probably has a 50VA transformer in it.

I was curious - what happens to power factor when 10x higher rated + inherently superior transformer is attached.

Answer? It drops 0.04 (oops, I put it at the beginning... lmao!). Not bad!

I honestly thought it was going to be a lot worse. This is relatively good news for the shape of the waveform. Now I'm not so set on getting 1600/1800/2000/2400W toroid - the 500VA one will probably be sufficient. Of course, I'll check how its AC output behaves with my scope when I get it - if it drops too much I'll have to exchange it


Some other information:
After this little guy powered A18 for 8 hours straight at basically idle (19.0W) {you could consider this background music level as well, because most amplifiers, when outputting less than a watt per channel, usually aren't drawing any more than +5 watts (above idle) from the wall}, the hottest external spot on the adapter is at the front under the outlet, and varies depending on the exact location - the top half of the front under the outlet ranges 53 to 58 deg C, while the rest of the package is is 30-45 C. Knowing this, the hottest part of the transformer inside is probably somewhere around 70 C. This makes me think that the "70WATT Max" rating is "Max" in the traditional sense. As in, Pyramid car subwoofer amp "Max" - it's actually rated for "35 watts maximum continuous power" lol. And then, even that is probably a bit of a stretch... Everyone knows that when electronics start getting toasty they give off a smell... This smell isn't necessarily a bad thing - most often it's just a few VOCs evaporating. If temp is above specifications though, and it's not just a few VOCs you're smelling, but the insulation on a coils? Then you're screwed. There's usually a difference in smell - and even if a component's cooking smells very similar to its burning, the rapid onset and severity is usually enough of a clue. Unless you're going WAY overboard - then you don't even smell it 'til it's fried!
 

Zapper

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I think you didn't answer part of my question because you thought it wasn't possible to have 3 phase at home.
True. Thanks for the info on that.
Basically the question was would the virtual neutral (I don't know what you'd call it...) created from floating the transformer across phases start jumping around +-~40-50V?
Yes, that's right. If my trig is right, the midpoint between phases will have an AC amplitude of 1/2 the single phase voltage wrt ground, and a phase of 60 degrees, halfway between the two 120 degree phases.
 
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