Some also have relatively big air core inductor and a common mode choke in font of this "clipper"
Of cause some usual X / Y caps and snuber for filtering.
But nothing special.
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Zero surge and surgeX are overpriced as hell
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Of cause some usual X / Y caps and snuber for filtering.
But nothing special.
I’m not able to measure the performance, but I trust their measurements, and I’m glad my equipment was protected.Ahh, I love the smell of anecdata in the morning
Product Oscillograms - Zero Surge
Introduction: For optimum protection from surges and noise, the goal is to keep the surge energy from exceeding the normal power wave region. As the surge energy travels, the sudden rise of voltage (dV/dt) and current (dI/dt) is what causes the degradation of sensitive electronics. We will...
zerosurge.com
All those measurements simply state that "their" technology is better. Whether you can trust that from the manufacturer of the kit is up to you.I’m not able to measure the performance, but I trust their measurements, and I’m glad my equipment was protected.
Product Oscillograms - Zero Surge
Introduction: For optimum protection from surges and noise, the goal is to keep the surge energy from exceeding the normal power wave region. As the surge energy travels, the sudden rise of voltage (dV/dt) and current (dI/dt) is what causes the degradation of sensitive electronics. We will...
But the discussion is whether any of these devices can protect from a nearby strike (for certain values of nearby). They can't. The energy in a lightning strike is well beyond what any surge supressor can absorb or block. It's obvious if you think about it. You'd expect air to be a really good blocker of surge energy - yet lighning can quite happly travel through upwards of 500m of the stuff. If that hits your house, it will simply bypass any protection devices you might have in line. Everything is toast.
In order for surge suppression to stand a chance, you probably need at least 1 step down transformer (to sacrificially detonate) between it and where ever the lighting hits the HV lines.
I look for a few things. One; the speed it reacts to a fault that is plugged into it. The second is how it react to a surge from an outside source.
Overcurrent is one thing undercurrent is another. I want the signals cleaned and maintained at 120vac on the button.. I also want the units to have at least OFC heavy copper wiring.
I use Trip-Lite 2400s and quiet them with a tube of 6.00usd silicone. 90% noise reduction. Silicone does not burn, at normal temperatures like a house fire.
I swap out 1/2 the outlets with Hubbell 125vac copper outlets. Anything that has a twisted wire nut is changed to HP cold-weld connector. 400.00 for the
best little unit around with all the mods. You don't like a rackmount, put it in a box or add a stick-on carbon fiber look.
BTW their price is fine and what others charge for bling is a choice you get to decide on. Nothing overpriced about it. I know a lot of people that carry a 500.00 pocket knife. Mine was 25.00 usd. I also carry a Queen Steel double fold with no lock that is over 80 years old. My fathers. He bought 4 for 20.00 dollars. I've been offered a
lot of money for the pair I have.
Mcintosh vs Trip-Lite there will be a difference just because of the name. I'm a huge Mac fan, Trip-Lite too for that matter.
I still use a Variac to bring up my older 110vac units and hold them there. No I'm not going to change. Tesla told me to do that in a vision.
Time to feed the chickens.
Overcurrent is one thing undercurrent is another. I want the signals cleaned and maintained at 120vac on the button.. I also want the units to have at least OFC heavy copper wiring.
I use Trip-Lite 2400s and quiet them with a tube of 6.00usd silicone. 90% noise reduction. Silicone does not burn, at normal temperatures like a house fire.
I swap out 1/2 the outlets with Hubbell 125vac copper outlets. Anything that has a twisted wire nut is changed to HP cold-weld connector. 400.00 for the
best little unit around with all the mods. You don't like a rackmount, put it in a box or add a stick-on carbon fiber look.
BTW their price is fine and what others charge for bling is a choice you get to decide on. Nothing overpriced about it. I know a lot of people that carry a 500.00 pocket knife. Mine was 25.00 usd. I also carry a Queen Steel double fold with no lock that is over 80 years old. My fathers. He bought 4 for 20.00 dollars. I've been offered a
lot of money for the pair I have.
Mcintosh vs Trip-Lite there will be a difference just because of the name. I'm a huge Mac fan, Trip-Lite too for that matter.
I still use a Variac to bring up my older 110vac units and hold them there. No I'm not going to change. Tesla told me to do that in a vision.
Time to feed the chickens.
All those measurements simply state that "their" technology is better. Whether you can trust that from the manufacturer of the kit is up to you.
But the discussion is whether any of these devices can protect from a nearby strike (for certain values of nearby). They can't. The energy in a lightning strike is well beyond what any surge supressor can absorb or block. It's obvious if you think about it. You'd expect air to be a really good blocker of surge energy - yet lighning can quite happly travel through upwards of 500m of the stuff. If that hits your house, it will simply bypass any protection devices you might have in line. Everything is toast.
In order for surge suppression to stand a chance, you probably need at least 1 step down transformer (to sacrificially detonate) between it and where ever the lighting hits the HV lines.
Yes, manufacturer published performance measures are not as credible as third party published measures. All other things being equal, it would be nice to have third party objective performance measures.
Sure, nothing can protect against a direct strike. My losses were very likely downstream from the actual strike, since the power company also had to repair equipment to restore service.
I thought the purpose of a ground rod was to divert strikes or over currents to ground, before they hit the domiciles main service panel. If it hits the house or the house is prone to strikes you add lightning rods with stringers. I was told by my uncles in the 60s of dry strikes on grain silos from the dust bowl. They insisted there were several hundred strikes during a severe dust storm lasting for days. Silos were blowing up where there was enough water to grow grains. Pyroclastic visuals they said?
Regards
It's definitely much easier to DIY. However, here comes the problem. How can one be sure that his/her design will work as intended in a real power surge??
This is where certification becomes important. It is expensive to get a product certified and even more expensive to design a product that conform to the what's required in the certification.
Certifications may not that important for home use but when it comes to industrial use, esp. harzadous industries (eg. Chemical), it's extremely important. Using the wrong product or an uncertified oneay even result in a catastrophic failure and explosion.
Yes, 3rd party measurements means that's the testing company actually certify that the product meets the required specs specified in the standard.
Apart from credibility, there are also legal implications. Alot is at stake here.
I read through the datasheet. 1283 and 22.2 no.8 are pertaining to EM interference and filter.
I know some of the models conforms to UL 1449 which is surge protection. Btw I just saw their PDF, conforms likely means meet the standard but not certified...
So I believe this model is not certified. While it's adequate for home use, it may not be suitable for use in more critical applications.
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So buy a 2 outlet protector and plug a power bar into it.
"As the surge energy travels, the sudden rise of voltage (dV/dt) and current (dI/dt) is what causes the degradation of sensitive electronics."
This sounds like BS. It means that a real fast voltage rise to 300volts is worse for electronics than a slow rise to 1000volts.
This sounds like BS. It means that a real fast voltage rise to 300volts is worse for electronics than a slow rise to 1000volts.
Their marketing guys are very creative.
The designs are pretty standard and simple. That is, MOVs go across voltage sources, and fuses go in series with the current source on the live, not neutral wire, as an example. I have built a surge box for my home audio setup. At my workplace, which manufactures surge protection devices, among other things, I have done extensive lightning surge testing using industry standard surge regimens on various combinations of surge devices. Of course, the real difficulty is not designing and building a competent surge protector, but getting it certified by authorities like UL or CE, to name two. You jump through endless hoops to get that. It's also very expensive to get these approvals.
It's simple to you because you are in this industry. How about a doctor or a dentist? Do you think they will be able to build one? What's simple to you might not be simple them vice versa.
For myself, I am in IT. While I do know about surge protection, I have no idea how the insides of a surge protector work (other than MOV). Protection for building is done by the facilities dept so I have no idea about it.
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I agree with you on that. Not everyone has experience in that field. I know not a whit about IT. Electrical circuit design is my game.
Thanks for your reply. I would say that for the rest of us who hardly know about electrical circuits, instead of trying to DIY, the best way is to simply buy a product designed by experts like you.
I wanted to say that most of the time, you don't need something exotic to work.
What is much harder is to get the suitable material for the intended purpose. Eg. for the inductor, what is the suitable inductance value?? For MOV, what should be the correct one to use? There are so many types and so many different ratings.
Look at the various types of varistors by littelfuse, which one should a person choose?
Radial Leaded Varistors - Littelfuse
And then, look at the datasheet. So, basically, they did all the hard work, design, manufacture and certification. We simply pick which is the situable one for the application.
Many will sell you a magic stone that protect your system with money back guarantee and 99,9% satisfied customers.
The only hard (and this means expensive) part is certification.
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