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Yet another Revel F206 thread

dped90

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I own f228be in one stereo system. They are terrific. The tweeter material won’t mean anything after you hear them. They sound beautiful, all over my large room. My other system has Harbeths, so if anyone should be primed to hear hard treble, it would be me, but I don’t. Great speakers.

Speaking of which, is my room truly large enough for the F228be, if even the F226be? It's 20 ft x 11 that empties into an 9 ft x 8 kitchen. The triangular ceiling over both slopes from 11 ft to 8 ft.

Assuming my room size is okay, then if that BE tweeter sound's like on the "sweet" or "warm" side of neutral than at least it shouldn't make my movies with over compressed and/or poorly miked soundtracks sound objectionable.

Examples:

The Good:

The Good or Okay:

The Bad:

And the Really Bad:
 
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Lsc

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Ok, they are more detailed sounding vs F206 – though I thought the spins showed a bit more output in certain areas of midrange or tweeter which would account for that. Could be wrong, don't have them on hand.
The F206 is a very good speaker. These differences within the same brand is expected but it doesn’t diminish the F206 in any way.
 

Looneybomber

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But the big questions is how would my ears would like the beryllium tweeter with the less than pristine 60s pop recordings TV episodes and movies-though mostly pressed on major label CDs, DVDs and BDs?
Garbage in, garbage out. That said, it’s better to have a sonically accurate speaker than a garbage speaker. You can then fiddle with the EQ to make bad recordings more tolerable.
 
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Hey as far as plugging the port, if my avr xover is set at 40hz, playing songs with deep digital bass, in a smallish-medium room kinda loud at times, I would like info as to if I should be worried I'm getting imd due to the woofers playing some where they are not much loaded, keeping the port unplugged
 

Looneybomber

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If I understand your post correctly, you have your F206s set to small with a 40hz crossover and you’re also concerned about excursion below the tuning point of your speaker causing doppler induced intermodulated distortion. Is that correct?

If so, I can’t speak on just how impactful IMD would be. It increases as excursion increases, but I haven’t seen it measured anywhere.

I listen to 2.0 channel music. With my Yamaha receiver, I also set mine to small at 40hz to keep excursion in check below the tuning point. That will protect the woofers during loud playback and subsequently reduce IMD - the amount is up for debate without measuring.

*edit* Fixed a gross misspelling.
 
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archerious

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One property that the F208 shares with its smaller sibling is the virtual absence of audible distortion at the lower end of the tweeter's range. If part of what impressed you with the F208 was its bass performance, you should demo the F206 before buying it, and avoid assuming that the F206 will be the same as the F208 in terms of bass performance. The price difference for a pair of F206 vs. F208 is $1500, and you should be able to save at least half of that by buying a pair of F206 and then supplementing the pair with a good subwoofer. If you aren't opposed to pre-owned, you might get lucky by finding something like a pair of F52 on one of the used audio sites.
How would you compare the F52 and F206? Both can be found used around $2000 a pair.

Debating on either set as a retirement gift to my parents.

Absolutely love my F226Be and they seem to enjoy my pair when they visit me.

I was also considering Kef R7 and R11 since bestbuy had them cheap ($950 > each) but sadly not in my area anymore.
 

Alice of Old Vincennes

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How would you compare the F52 and F206? Both can be found used around $2000 a pair.

Debating on either set as a retirement gift to my parents.

Absolutely love my F226Be and they seem to enjoy my pair when they visit me.

I was also considering Kef R7 and R11 since bestbuy had them cheap ($950 > each) but sadly not in my area anymore.
F206. Buy B stock with warranty. Music Direct recently was selling B stock for $1000 each. Look up authorized dealers including internet. Most authorized internet dealers offer free shipping. Be patient for deals. Look frequently.
 
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At the volume you listen at the 105's can't be crossed lower than 120hz? I was just doing quite a bit of switching between 60 and 70hz on my avr with the 206's, I'm pretty certain the later gave me (more) localization of the subwoofer. (in my small for an american audiophile room, with bass heavy music, turned up a decent amount at moments, I'm pretty sure I can cross over to the 206's at the least at 50hz, it's at 60 due to a pretty deep suckout of their response at like 53hz at my listening position)
Feel I shouod correct myself, I guess cuz as of late I've discovered some songs with significant deep bass info that I'm into I've come to realize that for lots of people these need to be crossed over at like 90hz. I'm actually wanting to ask somewhere, when running a tone sweep starting at 20hz, even with my avr set to a level where music is not coming off as "loud," the first handful of hertz definitely cause the 206's woofers to makes a lot of distortion, is this to be expected when my denon avr4310 is set to a 90hz xover? Slightly worried something could be amiss with my pair
 

TurtlePaul

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New (used) speaker day. Got them for a great price.
 

Laserjock

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Feel I shouod correct myself, I guess cuz as of late I've discovered some songs with significant deep bass info that I'm into I've come to realize that for lots of people these need to be crossed over at like 90hz. I'm actually wanting to ask somewhere, when running a tone sweep starting at 20hz, even with my avr set to a level where music is not coming off as "loud," the first handful of hertz definitely cause the 206's woofers to makes a lot of distortion, is this to be expected when my denon avr4310 is set to a 90hz xover? Slightly worried something could be amiss with my pair
Crossover isn’t a “brick wall”.
Are the sub/subs on or off ?
 
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Crossover isn’t a “brick wall”.
Are the sub/subs on or off ?
With room correction (by ear lol) applied with the sub in the mix, at higher volumes one hears distortion when playing tones in the low 20hz..I was just playing a song with a lot of plenty low bass with the crossover set to 80hz, certainly seemed to me that playing it kinda loud was causing at the least noticable IMD (...this is with room correction by ear applied, significant but not all that deep or broad cuts, lots of them, lol). I once read someone mention they don't like to plug bass reflex ports because you're essentially wasting space, wasting what was put into the the speaker by doing so, if I've already got the crossover set at 90hz am I not really wasting much of anything by plugging the ports?
 
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Man, you know, been doing the sub integration and room correction all by ear (ridiculous, I know),..it's amazing how much I change my mind about what I feel I'm hearing. Probably not contributing info of much of any worth. But, I just moved the sub "level" setting up several notches. If it's worth anything as far as the level of bass these speakers put out, I've got my denon 4310 avr set at the +3db subwoofer "level" at a crossover at 90hz, and 0 "level" on the nob on the back of my paradigm studio sub 12
 
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Just buy a UMIK-1 already.
Lol
...No more posts from me lool..Not easy contributing anything useful. I would like some feedback as far as if keeping the ports open when using a 90hz crossover is fairly pointless. ...At least with my real unsymetrically..room-loaded mains, I just realized how wonderfully more even the bass is sounding moving the xover from 80 to 90hz lol, even just with one sub
 

TurtlePaul

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Lol
...No more posts from me lool..Not easy contributing anything useful. I would like some feedback as far as if keeping the ports open when using a 90hz crossover is fairly pointless. ...At least with my real unsymetrically..room-loaded mains, I just realized how wonderfully more even the bass is sounding moving the xover from 80 to 90hz lol, even just with one sub
It is hard to answer without measurements. Can you implement delay on your sub or mains? If not, which setting gets them in phase at the x-over point. What is the slope of the crossover for the sub and the mains, what is the effective slope if you include the roll of of the mains (which is about 2nd order between 60 and 40 hz and 4th order below 40 hz when ported).

The ideal sub integration results in flat frequency response and ideally the drivers being in-phase near the crossover point. My experience is this is impossible to do by ear.
 

CapMan

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I’ve had some F206s at home for a week to demo. Have been impressed by scale, detail, neutrality , bass articulation and eveness.

Finally got around to measuring with MM technique. Fairly tight figure of 8 pattern.

Top is right followed by left . No EQ.

My room is small, asymmetric - sloped door way on right. Pretty sub optimal. You can see it in the lower bass .

Super impressed, however, by this response which pretty flat to 120 Hz. I will be crossing over to a pair of SVS Micro 3000 so hope to fill in some of the funky variance below 120hz.

I have been using small Harbeth P3s and the subs - they are lovely, but the response is nothing like as flat in room and has big suck outs below 200hz.

Science wins again :)

Also have both Dirac and Audyssey to play with on my Denon 4800.

I can get a cracking deal on new 206s so think I’ll pull the trigger :)
 

coptician

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I'll be going to buy these second-hand tomorrow to replace my M105's. Still gonna need a sub judging from what I know, but I need a second setup anyway due to an upcoming move.

Very much looking forward to it. First set of floorstanding speakers for me.

Anything I need to know when I take a look at them tomorrow?
 

CapMan

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I'll be going to buy these second-hand tomorrow to replace my M105's. Still gonna need a sub judging from what I know, but I need a second setup anyway due to an upcoming move.

Very much looking forward to it. First set of floorstanding speakers for me.

Anything I need to know when I take a look at them tomorrow?
Can’t think of anything - make sure they have the accessories - two foam bungs and the screw in feet.

They are very glossy so maybe take a flashlight to look for any obvious scratches!

Hope they work out for you
 
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It is hard to answer without measurements. Can you implement delay on your sub or mains? If not, which setting gets them in phase at the x-over point. What is the slope of the crossover for the sub and the mains, what is the effective slope if you include the roll of of the mains (which is about 2nd order between 60 and 40 hz and 4th order below 40 hz when ported).

The ideal sub integration results in flat frequency response and ideally the drivers being in-phase near the crossover point. My experience is this is impossible to do by ear.
Lol :) how would being in, or out, of phase sound? ...I've been using a "sinusoidal wave" sweep to integrate the sub and do room correction. I guess I've realized that this is a super hard task because of the greater sensitivity our ears have for the overtone frequencies than the lower bass fundamental frequencies. As far as getting the best level matching, I guess putting the sub as loud as I can without it standing out while playing music is the best way to do things if working by ear? With the 206's up against the wall and my paradigm reference sub also against the front wall between them, it seems like +6 decibles on my denon avr gives me about matching level, whether the crossover point is 90, 80, or 60hz. Anyone think that can't be right (what the hell is the word or phrase for when a settings nob is built so that the nob clicks into place at the zero/neutral setting, that's where the gain nob on my paradigm reference sub 12 is set)?
 
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