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Yamaha RX-V6A 7.2 channel 4K / 8K Dolby AV Receiver Review

mjband4

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Long time listener, first time caller….. I own the Costco version of this. Considering that the intended use was 90% movie/video content and I paid, delivered, less than $350 for it, I don’t regret my purchase. Others have commented that they don’t use volume levels anywhere near -10dB. I would say that the majority of time I am at -40dB to -26dB. When using it to listen to music, at most I turn it up to -20dB. Even before reading this review, I had made two observations. Firstly, the very few times I did listen at higher levels, depending on input, it seemed to sound noisier/harsher at ~-14 dB. I never took it past -10dB. The other observation I made was relative to the unit it replaces, an Aventage RX-A550. On both units I set the default volume when the power is turned on to -40dB. On the RX-A550 this was always too low. On the TSR-700 (RX-V6A), this is often sufficient for normal TV watching. Perhaps the extra power of the TSR-700 is allowing me to run it at significantly lower volume settings than the Aventage.

Reading the review, I took away, maybe erroneously, the unit has lackluster digital performance, both from the DAC aspect and the digital crossover involved with speaker size selection, and relatively poor amplification performance at reference level. The other thing I have taken away from the review, which others have also commented on, is that at volume settings in line with what appears to be common use cases from those of us that own the unit, the amplifier performance is perhaps a bit better than at reference volume. My question is, would this unit potentially benefit from the use of a decent, modestly priced external DAC like a Topping D10s, DX3 Pro, E30, Schiit Modi 3, or an Allo Boss/Mini Boss on a Pi? I am certain that the amp section at its best doesn’t warrant a DAC that costs as much as it does, but in my case, a DX3 Pro would find double duty for this use and as a headphone amp, so it would provide additional value.
 
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NewbieAudiophileExpert

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Long time listener, first time caller….. I own the Costco version of this. Considering that the intended use was 90% movie/video content and I paid, delivered, less than $350 for it, I don’t regret my purchase. Others have commented that they don’t use volume levels anywhere near -10dB. I would say that the majority of time I am at -40dB to -26dB. When using it to listen to music, at most I turn it up to -20dB. Even before reading this review, I had made two observations. Firstly, the very few times I did listen at higher levels, depending on input, it seemed to sound noisier/harsher at ~-14 dB. I never took it past -10dB. The other observation I made was relative to the unit it replaces, an Aventage RX-A550. On both units I set the default volume when the power is turned on to -40dB. On the RX-A550 this was always too low. On the TSR-700 (RX-V6A), this is often sufficient for normal TV watching. Perhaps the extra power of the TSR-700 is allowing me to run it at significantly lower volume settings than the Aventage.

Reading the review, I took away, maybe erroneously, the unit has lackluster digital performance, both from the DAC aspect and the digital crossover involved with speaker size selection, and relatively poor amplification performance at reference level. The other thing I have taken away from the review, which others have also commented on, is that at volume settings in line with what appears to be common use cases from those of us that own the unit, the amplifier performance is perhaps a bit better than at reference volume. My question is, would this unit potentially benefit from the use of a decent, modestly priced external DAC like a Topping D10s, DX3 Pro, E30, Schiit Modi 3, or an Allo Boss/Mini Boss on a Pi? I am certain that the amp section at its best doesn’t warrant a DAC that costs as much as it does, but in my case, a DX3 Pro would find double duty for this use and as a headphone amp, so it would provide additional value.
Yeah allegedly this AVR is at reference at -16dbs.... 0dbs is RIDICULOUS and would result in noise complaints. I too have it set to -40 dbs at default and this is perfect for watching at night and during the day -25dbs is sweet... even -20dbs is too much IME.

I don't think it's necessarily the DAC that's 'not good', but a combination of factors, which can be vast in the context of an AVR such as the V6A - so connecting a DAC might not get rid of the noise at -14dbs and up... to test this, i just chuck it on for example 'audio 3' and turn up the volume to hear the distortion going on.

Otherwise, I just have a stereo amplifier connected to the V6A's front pre-outs and use that for the front speakers, and my D10S is also connected to this stereo amplifier and sounds amazing for music listening from my macbook pro's apple music service.
 

BN1

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Long time listener, first time caller….. I own the Costco version of this. Considering that the intended use was 90% movie/video content and I paid, delivered, less than $350 for it, I don’t regret my purchase. Others have commented that they don’t use volume levels anywhere near -10dB. I would say that the majority of time I am at -40dB to -26dB. When using it to listen to music, at most I turn it up to -20dB. Even before reading this review, I had made two observations. Firstly, the very few times I did listen at higher levels, depending on input, it seemed to sound noisier/harsher at ~-14 dB. I never took it past -10dB. The other observation I made was relative to the unit it replaces, an Aventage RX-A550. On both units I set the default volume when the power is turned on to -40dB. On the RX-A550 this was always too low. On the TSR-700 (RX-V6A), this is often sufficient for normal TV watching. Perhaps the extra power of the TSR-700 is allowing me to run it at significantly lower volume settings than the Aventage.

Reading the review, I took away, maybe erroneously, the unit has lackluster digital performance, both from the DAC aspect and the digital crossover involved with speaker size selection, and relatively poor amplification performance at reference level. The other thing I have taken away from the review, which others have also commented on, is that at volume settings in line with what appears to be common use cases from those of us that own the unit, the amplifier performance is perhaps a bit better than at reference volume. My question is, would this unit potentially benefit from the use of a decent, modestly priced external DAC like a Topping D10s, DX3 Pro, E30, Schiit Modi 3, or an Allo Boss/Mini Boss on a Pi? I am certain that the amp section at its best doesn’t warrant a DAC that costs as much as it does, but in my case, a DX3 Pro would find double duty for this use and as a headphone amp, so it would provide additional value.
I have the RX-A660 avr and it does many things all quite well. Would I like more power, sure, or a better DAC, likewise, but it serves my purpose very well and, like you, I don't run it at anywhere near max volume where apparent problems can occur (and most users don't). Just enjoy it. Now, with all that said, would I like to have a new Yamaha RXA6A, oh yes and maybe a few years down the road ...
 

Sal1950

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^^^^
Good posts gentlemen.
Although this AVR didn't get Amir's highest rating, it didn't get a decapitated pinky either. :)
You do get an aweful lot for a little money here and although they could have put a little more effort into the design
they didn't do too badly. Enjoy your systems now and if sometime in the future your ready to spend considerly more,
keep in touch and see what tomorrow's reviews may bring.
cent' anni
 

oatmeat

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I recently bought this AVR along with an Emotiva amp and a pair of Klipsch speakers. With my old Yamaha AVR and pair of bookshelf speakers my usual music listening volume was around -20db. At this level my new setup is kind of underwhelming. It isn't until around -10db that the system really starts to shine. Is it possible that the AVR isn't driving the amp to near it's full potential at "lower" to moderate volumes? The input sensitivity on the amp is 1.2v. Would an Art Cleanbox Pro help with this or is the voltage differences negligible? Am I worrying about this for nothing?
 

Skyro

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My issue with this avr was never sound quality but the whole hdmi 2.1 port fiasco and the earc dropouts which finally seem to be resolved. In fact this might be the cheapest avr I've seen that has preouts (LR only though). Yes the room correction kinda sucks (well more like it doesn't really even seem to do anything) and yamaha's streaming app (musiccast) is also terrible but for what I got it for ($320 on sale at costco) I have no complaints using it in my modest 5.1 living room setup
 

NewbieAudiophileExpert

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I recently bought this AVR along with an Emotiva amp and a pair of Klipsch speakers. With my old Yamaha AVR and pair of bookshelf speakers my usual music listening volume was around -20db. At this level my new setup is kind of underwhelming. It isn't until around -10db that the system really starts to shine. Is it possible that the AVR isn't driving the amp to near it's full potential at "lower" to moderate volumes? The input sensitivity on the amp is 1.2v. Would an Art Cleanbox Pro help with this or is the voltage differences negligible? Am I worrying about this for nothing?
Do you find there to be any distortion at -10dbs?
My issue with this avr was never sound quality but the whole hdmi 2.1 port fiasco and the earc dropouts which finally seem to be resolved. In fact this might be the cheapest avr I've seen that has preouts (LR only though). Yes the room correction kinda sucks (well more like it doesn't really even seem to do anything) and yamaha's streaming app (musiccast) is also terrible but for what I got it for ($320 on sale at costco) I have no complaints using it in my modest 5.1 living room setup
The room correction isn't the best, but it definitely does something - regarding the music-cast app, i'd say that it's quite good actually, especially compare to other av receiver brand's offerings..
 

Frontino

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I have an older and lower class model (RX-V381) but with similar performance.

I can attest that SINAD changes based on which channels you turn off.

If you turn off the Sub, SINAD rises by 24 dB.

If you turn off Surrounds and/or Center, SINAD rises by 5.5 dB.

I also performed a test with a 100 Hz full scale sine with uncorrelated phase on the 3 front channels in DTS-HD MA 5.1 and the amp voltage peaks at 21-22 RMS at -4.5 on the master volume.

When I listen at reference (105 dBC on master volume 0), I have channel trims at -9.5 and, apparently, it still sounds clean.

I haven't compared it to a McIntosh yet, though. I wish I could afford one.
 

NewbieAudiophileExpert

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Hey all, so i am trying to do a proper calibration of my V6A - so far i've used an 'OK' mic, REW SPL meter, and the AVRS internal 'test tones' - I've taken some time and managed to get all of the speakers emitting the same sound level and boy does it sound different and better than the YPAO auto calibration.

Now the next step would be to send test tones to each speaker, individually - however, I can't seem to figure out how to do this... does anybody else have experience doing the same?
No distortion that I can notice. But of course I don't have the fine tuned ear that I'm sure most on here have.
Hmm based on my understanding that's above reference as well.
 

Mozi

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Now the next step would be to send test tones to each speaker, individually - however, I can't seem to figure out how to do this... does anybody else have experience doing the same?
Enable the test tone, then back out of that menu and go to the speaker levels menu. The test tone will emit from whichever you are currently adjusting.
 

NewbieAudiophileExpert

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Enable the test tone, then back out of that menu and go to the speaker levels menu. The test tone will emit from whichever you are currently adjusting.
Thanks dude, I've just followed your instruction and have further 'purified' the signal.

The right rear speaker was especially burdensome, since for some reason it sounds wayyy louder than the left rear speaker, even though they're about the same distance apart - it must be the fact that the rear right in in a tighter spot, affecting its acoustics.

Otherwise, since i'm using the V6A's front pre-outs to feed a signal to my integrated amp, i can't use YPAO, so this is the only method.. whenever I run YPAO and use the preout signal to power the fronts, it doesn't register the right speaker and provides me with the error code, 'E-1'.

This is what I have set up - please note that the 'front presence' or ATMOS speakers are 'artificially high', i.e. I've turned them up by 3dbs to get more of an atmos effect, when it does present it self and also set the ATMOS to 'small' with the cross over at 160hz for more directionality.

Screen Shot 2022-08-18 at 1.36.35 pm.png


Do you know of any other 'tips and tricks' like this for the V6A?
 
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Mozi

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You may already know this, but if you connect the receiver to your local network, go into the network settings and check its IP address. Then go there on your PC browser and add '/setup' to the end (example: http://192.168.0.100/Setup/) and you can easily manage all the settings from there.
 

NewbieAudiophileExpert

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You may already know this, but if you connect the receiver to your local network, go into the network settings and check its IP address. Then go there on your PC browser and add '/setup' to the end (example: http://192.168.0.100/Setup/) and you can easily manage all the settings from there.
Yuhp - already do this and it's one my favourite things to do... watch a movie and adjust the speaker settings.. also, i've updated the post above.
 

dougi

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Hey all, so i am trying to do a proper calibration of my V6A - so far i've used an 'OK' mic, REW SPL meter, and the AVRS internal 'test tones' - I've taken some time and managed to get all of the speakers emitting the same sound level and boy does it sound different and better than the YPAO auto calibration.

Now the next step would be to send test tones to each speaker, individually - however, I can't seem to figure out how to do this... does anybody else have experience doing the same?

Hmm based on my understanding that's above reference as well.
You mean, your own test tones? Yes you can, there is a guide for REW with multichannel somewhere around the web. I followed it and successful used to teset the RX-A2A version of this to measure individual in-room responses of each speaker. Under window, best to use FlexAsio under it to get access to each channel and use seperate audio interface for your microphone. Of course, you need to use PC HDMI out and setup windows (I think this is required) to use multi-channel (5.1 or 7.1 ).
 

NewbieAudiophileExpert

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You mean, your own test tones? Yes you can, there is a guide for REW with multichannel somewhere around the web. I followed it and successful used to teset the RX-A2A version of this to measure individual in-room responses of each speaker. Under window, best to use FlexAsio under it to get access to each channel and use seperate audio interface for your microphone. Of course, you need to use PC HDMI out and setup windows (I think this is required) to use multi-channel (5.1 or 7.1 ).
Damn, that sounds pretty serious - I'd probably get one of those special microscopes which have been calibrated for this sort of thing.. like the UMIK-1 or the dayton audio one... at the moment I use one that I'd purchased off of amazon.com.au lol!

Did you get much out of the multichannel testing of the RX-A2A? If so, which of the metrics did you change around?
 

dougi

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Damn, that sounds pretty serious - I'd probably get one of those special microscopes which have been calibrated for this sort of thing.. like the UMIK-1 or the dayton audio one... at the moment I use one that I'd purchased off of amazon.com.au lol!

Did you get much out of the multichannel testing of the RX-A2A? If so, which of the metrics did you change around?
Yes worth getting a Umik-1 if you are serious about making any adjustments based on measurements.

I used the measurements to both check sub integration as well as improve the performance of the centre channel at my wife's very off-centre position. For that, under normal YPAO it was showing high upper bass levels, colouring the vocals (but not at my seat). I ended up turning YPAO off, turning the centre channel upside down (a two-way that is horizontal) and tweaking the basic GEQ settings to get a good balance for her and my positions. plus checking that all was roughly OK on the other speakers as well.
 

NewbieAudiophileExpert

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Yes worth getting a Umik-1 if you are serious about making any adjustments based on measurements.

I used the measurements to both check sub integration as well as improve the performance of the centre channel at my wife's very off-centre position. For that, under normal YPAO it was showing high upper bass levels, colouring the vocals (but not at my seat). I ended up turning YPAO off, turning the centre channel upside down (a two-way that is horizontal) and tweaking the basic GEQ settings to get a good balance for her and my positions. plus checking that all was roughly OK on the other speakers as well.
That's interesting - do you know what differences the YPAO EQ settings make, if any at all? There's options for 'Off', 'GEQ', and 'YPAO' under various modes.
 

dougi

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That's interesting - do you know what differences the YPAO EQ settings make, if any at all? There's options for 'Off', 'GEQ', and 'YPAO' under various modes.
Yes, I have measured them. Flat is yes, more flat than natural (but natural better suited to the expected treble rolloff in my room) and indeed "front" does try to match to the front speaker response (within reason). I'll try and post some examples when back to my PC with the REW results.
 

NewbieAudiophileExpert

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Yes, I have measured them. Flat is yes, more flat than natural (but natural better suited to the expected treble rolloff in my room) and indeed "front" does try to match to the front speaker response (within reason). I'll try and post some examples when back to my PC with the REW results.
Sure - sounds good.

Have you tried the front pre outs on your amplifier?

Also curiosu what made you go with the A2A vs the good ole V6A - it wasn't the 'fifth pillar', was it?
 
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