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wuzhi audio sorunu

wax123

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I bought a Chinese amplifier from Wuzhi Audio brand and even got 150W. My problem is that when I connect via Bluetooth or AUX, the music sound comes from the body of the devices. No matter if I connect speakers or not.
 
Wtf :D

You could try to take it apart and find the precise sound source, then try to do something about, but I'm not sure if it's worth the effort.

Also, taking apart Amplifiers is inherently risky due to the capacitors potentially contained within.
 
Wtf :D

You could try to take it apart and find the precise sound source, then try to do something about, but I'm not sure if it's worth the effort.

Also, taking apart Amplifiers is inherently risky due to the capacitors potentially contained within.
Yes, trying to replace all the parts is time consuming and risky.
 
Yes, trying to replace all the parts is time consuming and risky.
I fear we may never get to the bottom of this.

In fact I'm sure we won't .

Just look at it this way , you bought an amp . Turns out you got bonus speakers . Somewhere . In that little box .
 

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Ok no high voltage here. You just can thouch the parts with your dry finger to see/hear what vibrates with the music. If you know what makes the sound evtl. some clue helps. just tell us first. Could be the heatsink on the chip. Or maybe a output induktor. You can listen and thouch to hear/see where it comes from. No danger.
 
Ok no high voltage here. You just can thouch the parts with your dry finger to see/hear what vibrates with the music. If you know what makes the sound evtl. some clue helps. just tell us first. Could be the heatsink on the chip. Or maybe a output induktor. You can listen and thouch to hear/see where it comes from. No danger.
I touched them all one by one, I took out the cooler but the sound is still there. I pressed and squeezed but it is still there. There are 2 black ones and the others.
 
It is almost certainly some of the output filter components that are making the racket. Could be the inductors (see coil whine), but also the bigger brownish ceramic capacitors next to them (which are piezoelectric - yeah, like piezo beepers). That's what you get when things are designed to be as small and cheap as possible - I assume equivalent polyester film caps would have fit neither the board space nor the parts budget.

BTW, there is something missing from the left inductor. Was it like that when opened? The DC power jack also looks crooked. Some first-rate assembly quality right there...
 
It is almost certainly some of the output filter components that are making the racket. Could be the inductors (see coil whine), but also the bigger brownish ceramic capacitors next to them (which are piezoelectric - yeah, like piezo beepers). That's what you get when things are designed to be as small and cheap as possible - I assume equivalent polyester film caps would have fit neither the board space nor the parts budget.

BTW, there is something missing from the left inductor. Was it like that when opened? The DC power jack also looks crooked. Some first-rate assembly quality right there...
The left inductor was not like this when it was opened. I removed the outer part to test it. Even if the power input is direct, the sound is still there. I tried many adapters, 12v 2A, 24v 4A.
 
I was thinking something like WIMA MKP 2 series, 63 V rated should do easily if 24 V is the highest-voltage power supply you have. While SMD films do exist, the leaded variety may be more flexible in placement anyway. Which chip is this amp based on?

In order to determine the capacitance needed, you can either unsolder one and measure, or we can do the math based on some assumptions and this design document:
They have some example values but for a compromise 6 ohm load, those would be L = 22 µH and C = 1.2 µF. We know we have 10 µH inductors (yup, cost-cutting again), so in order to match these, we'll have to do the math in p.6 using (4) and (5). Since this is for a BTL circuit, we must enter half the load resistance, i.e. R_L = 3 ohms. Then
(4) <=> ω_0 = (R_L * √2)/L = 424.2 kHz
(5) C = 1/(ω_0 * R_L * √2) = 0.555... µF ~= 560 nF

Hmm. They're making MKP2 in either 0.47 or 0.68 µF (I would use the latter then), and in 63 V they're 8.5 mm wide x 7.2 mm long x 14 mm high. I think that's roughly the same footprint as the inductors but higher. (You can probably guess why they didn't want to use something like those - and then there's pricing.) I might consider the smaller MKS2 series but their impulse ratings seem insufficient for this use case.
 
Get a better amp and don't destroy it by breaking off inductors or other parts. This one was simply too cheap.
 
Get a better amp and don't destroy it by breaking off inductors or other parts. This one was simply too cheap.
Do you have any suggestions? I use these amps to drive Rodin coils.
 

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These amplifiers work well. The only problem is the music crackling sound coming from the body.

If you not find where the vibration comes from? Get another amp or put a second better isolated case around. No other idear sry. But to be honest if you just drive that coil i not realy get your proplem ????? A experiment that makes a tiny bit of noise? Who cares?
 
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