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Would you give the McIntosh MHA200 a chance?

It probably looks worst than it is with the lots of averages as here and also the pattern looks almost like it's clipped.Typical tubes I guess.
Looking forward to see THD+N vs Level!
I would play a little with grounding and wiring.
 
It probably looks worst than it is
It's true!
the pattern looks almost like it's clipped.Typical tubes I guess.
No, it wasn't that far. All input and output amplitudes were double checked with a True RMS multimeter. It was -15 dbFS measurements for all devices.
 
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Thanks for the pertinent question!

I measured it with a balanced connection for one output channel going to an AES17 1kHz notch filter going to an isolated ADC with THD+N@-127dB and then digitized by a grounded PC with ASIO drivers, Multitone @ REW software.

Notes: The MHA200 is not a grounded device by manufacturer's choice. It uses a two-wire power cord.

View attachment 401182

If you look at my old “Three generations of Marantz” integrated measurements, all three are two pronged AC power but even when running the whole system off a laptop with no AC power, I was able to improve the AC mains noise by adding an extra grounding wire. Looking at the user manual, it seems like the output is just +/- from the XLR out. It maybe be worth seeing if that changes the 60 Hz peak.
 
Let's continue! Today I measured the frequency response and THD vs Frequency & Power of the MHA200.

Test conditions:
Input: 2Vrms
Load: 300 Ohm
All connections are balanced.

Left channel:
MHA200_FR_Left.jpg

Full range frequency response

MHA200_FR_Left_20-20K.jpg

20 Hz - 20 kHz

MHA200_FR_Left_20.jpg
MHA200_FR_Left_20K.jpg

20 Hz -0.81 dB, 20 kHz -0.56 dB

Right channel:
MHA200_FR_Right.jpg

Full range frequency response

MHA200_FR_Right_20-20K.jpg

20 Hz - 20 kHz

MHA200_FR_Right_20.jpg
MHA200_FR_Right_20K.jpg

20 Hz -0.81 dB, 20 kHz -0.37 dB

MHA200_FR_Match.jpg

The channel mismatch is 0.2 dB in the range of 10 kHz –20 kHz.

index.php

THD vs Frequency, Left channel.

MHA200_Right_THD_vs_Freq.jpg

THD vs Frequency, Right channel.

MHA200_Left_THD_vs_Power.jpg

THD vs Power, Left channel.
The limitations of my measuring equipment did not allow me to measure the range above 350 mW.
Since the distortion curve looks fairly linear, I drew a hypothetical line in the range 350-500 mW, which gives us 0.18% at 500 mW.

MHA200_Right_THD_vs_Power.jpg

THD vs Power, Right channel.
The limitations of my measuring equipment did not allow me to measure the range above 350 mW.
Since the distortion curve looks fairly linear, I drew a hypothetical line in the range 350-500 mW, which gives us 0.14% at 500 mW.

Conclusions:
- Frequency response 20 Hz - 20 kHz +0, -0.8/-0.4 dB
- Channel mismatch 0.2 dB
- THD 0.18% (-55 dB) or less at 500 mW.
- Meet or exceed manufacturer provided specifications.

Differences in frequency response and THD between channels can be attributed to variations in vacuum tube/output transformer characteristics, but all are within tolerances.
 

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Not a chance. Overpriced and it uses outdated tubes. It makes no sense to waste money on something like this. I wouldn't use this or something like it even if it was priced at $50.

I can't believe people are still buying audio gear of any type with tubes other than used guitar amps.
Brian, I want to show respect for your experience in audio engineering.
Have you had a chance to listen to a tube headphone amp with 0.05% THD, which was dominated by 2nd order harmonic distortion?
 
Brian, I want to show respect for your experience in audio engineering.
Have you had a chance to listen to a tube headphone amp with 0.05% THD, which was dominated by 2nd order harmonic distortion?

There is no point in wasting time with tube gear. Some may sound ok, but why bother when superior solid state gear is available.

I do not want my sound equipment to glow and be distracting.
 
You can rotate the figure-8 AC connector on the rear panel- often that will make a change to mains related issues in the FFT.

It is a very cool looking unit, I have to say. :)
 
It's a wonderful typical McIntosh but I think the layout for display purposes should include the tubes being at the front and the transformers at the rear.
They (Mac) have copied (their own) Mac amplifier aesthetic...

be they vacuum tube appliances...
1729859550755.jpeg

or soiled solid state appliances...
1729859613841.jpeg


Sort of like Morgan sports cars. :)

1729859760123.png



Just as Mac went from vacuum tubes to solid state (well... at least partially...), Morgan did make the switch from three wheels to four somewhere along the line. ;)
1729859848173.jpeg
 
Thanks for the review and measurements, this is cool. I can’t resist a Mc device.

From the below, it looks like there is a ringing oversampling filter in action:

IMG_9527.jpeg


Is the signal converted to digital in this unit?
 
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Is the signal converted to digital in this unit?
No, the amplifier is purely analogue and has no digital connections. The test signal was provided by the RME ADI-2/4 Pro SE unit.
From the below, it looks like there is a ringing oversampling filter is action
Good catch! For some reason my ADI-2 DAC's filter settings were set to SD Sharp. The default filter should be Sharp. I switched it back to its original setting.

SD Sharp is IIR filter (also called minimum phase), which is not phase-linear and mostly cause post ringing. The advantage of IIR is the very low latency of a few samples only, which is welcome in a studio monitoring situation.

Sharp is FIR filter that cause post and pre-ringing. FIR in general has a higher latency, but is phase-linear over the whole frequency range.

1729891080783.png
 
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What do you think it sounds like?
All things controlled, with a SINAD of almost 70dB and very low noise, I think most listeners would be hard pressed to find differences, if only a bit more "relaxed"on sharper transients due to the 2nd order harmonic distortion (which, in fairness, is not all that dominant in relation to the other harmonics).

On dynamic headphones, if the output impedance is not well behaved, this might end-up sounding indeed warmer.
 
Thank you!

Did you calibrate the RME in loopback with REW? I’m still surprised by the ringing.

What were the settings for the measurements? 24/196? Or maybe more?
 
Did you calibrate the RME in loopback with REW? I’m still surprised by the ringing.

What were the settings for the measurements? 24/196? Or maybe more?
Yes, the RME unit is calibrated and completely transparent. This particular FR test was done with 24/48k.
You can see a couple of previous screenshots with FR measurements at full range (24/384k), and at 10-20kHz the response was absolutely flat.
 
What do you think it sounds like?
If you’d have asked me before I done one of them how much distortion can I hear tests I’d have said awful,since then I really don’t care any more because I can’t hear much of it so it probably sounds pretty much the same as anything else.
 
Let me describe my observations of this headphone amplifier from McIntosh.

First about the positive aspects:
- attractive appearance, combined with classic notes of audio equipment of the past, black metal chassis, chrome top, beautifully executed transformer boxes.
- fully balanced XLR connections for inputs and outputs.
- excellent overload capacity of the input, operating without distortion in the range from 2 Vrms to 16 Vrms (!).
- automatic (relay) switching of transformer outputs in accordance with the position of the headphone impedance selector knob.
- compact footprint for a tube device.
- sufficient output power reserve for most headphones
- low level of the output noise, absolute silence in the headphones during pauses between music tracks. Measurements show a value of about -108 dB for the noise floor.
- low (for tube devices) harmonic distortion, driven mainly by the value of the 2nd harmonic, which, according to some information, has a pleasant sound for listeners. I can't hear them, with a value of 0.05% at my listening volumes in Sennheiser HD650 headphones.
- transparent sound. Frequency response measurements show that the amplifier has a uniform gain in the entire frequency range from 20 Hz to 20 kHz, and the imbalance between the channels is minimal (0.2 dB), by ear the left and right channels sound equally smooth.
- absence of any hint of warm tube sound. The sound is completely analytical. I will attribute this to the pluses, since the device does not introduce improvisation into the reproduced sound. In a blind test, I would not distinguish this tube amplifier from a high-class solid-state amplifier.

Now about the negative aspects:
- the device is susceptible to EMI from nearby Wi-Fi routers, mobile phones and Bluetooth devices. In general, everything that works in the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz frequency ranges. I had to move the amplifier away from my Wi-Fi router, otherwise, at rest, digital communications modulations were heard in the headphones. Some searching on the Internet revealed that this drawback is inherent in many tube amplifiers, and is caused by the design of the vacuum tubes, the internal electrodes of which act as mini-antennas for interference, then amplified by them. I had to reinstall the metal mesh covering the tubes as this significantly reduced the amplifier's susceptibility to electromagnetic interference, but at the same time reduced the aesthetic appeal of the tubes' glow.
- with such a high price, there are manufacturing quality control flaws. One of the 12AT7 tube sockets is soldered to the mainboard at an angle and sits slightly below the surface of the top case cover. This causes the tube to sit crooked when fully inserted. To make it look even with the rest of the tubes, I had to pull it out at a slight angle. I'm guessing the mainboard and tube sockets are not made in the US and import quality control is lame.
1000037310.jpg

Another quality issue was with the screws that hold the mesh tube cover in place. The threads are in the stamped cover itself, which is thin metal and only has 1.5 threads. It is weak and the threads were stripped on one screw when the new unit arrived.
- everyone hates the volume knob on this amp. It's loose, very inconsistent in its steps, and way too sensitive in the most useful volume range. Basically, the most useful volume range is from the 12:30 to 2 o'clock position of the knob. My measurements of the output signal showed that the value jumps between predefined output volume levels. This does not look like an analog volume potentiometer, but more like a rotary encoder. My guess is that it goes to an analog input on the board's microcontroller, the potentiometer position is digitized, and then fixed gain settings are applied to the tube circuit. This works poorly, and is one of the major design flaws of this amp.
 
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