wondom bru5 pc dsp configurable TPA 3255 "300w x 2" mini amplifier

[Mark185]

The TinySine DSP boards are very good entry level products to learn how to use DSP but most are based on the ADAU1701 chip. They make a 1452 board that looks very promising. I bought one but have not tried to do much with it yet.

ADAU1452 is the first in Analog Devices '350 Series' of DSP chips and is very capable. 1466 was the next step forward and has more memory and more Asynchronus Rate Comverters (ASRCs) if I am not mistaken. There was some kind of bug in the 1466 that did not affect most users but the company released the 1467 which fixed the bug. All 3 of these chips are very powerful in terms of clock speed and number of calculations that are possible. Realistically, the 1452 can do anything we might need in terms of crossovers, equalization, time delay, etc. The more advanced functions the 1466 and 1467 were targeted at are automotive integration, noise cancellation, etc.

I am working on a prototype using the Deyin 1452 DSP board sold on Aliexpress and some ES9018 based DACs. I am using I2S connections between the boards. No soldering is required. I am just using test jumper wires from one board to the other. The key here is to keep them short - 4" or less to avoid noise and crosstalk problems. The DACs were about $20 each on aliexpress and appear to be good designs. It takes 3 of them for a triamplified active speaker. This Deyin board is not the easiest path because the documentation is not very good and the board does not work properly out of the box. It took me many hours to figure it out. The advantage of this board is it makes virtually all of the pins on the 1452 available for use and opens the door for external potentiometers, DACs, etc. They also sell this board paired with a Cirrus Logic CODEC board with 6 inputs and 8 outputs using 3.5mm jacks for each pair of channels. The Cirrus Logic board is not the best compared to DACs from ESS and AKM but it is great for experimenting and prototyping. You can do your design with that and then convert to external DACs when you are ready. That is what I have done.

None of these approaches is turn-key but most 1452 boards allow you to scale up your design as you get more competent with Sigma Studio.

My complaint on the Wondom products is they forced me to spend way too much time figuring out why they were not working and not enough time learning how to use Sigma Studio.

 

[john61ct]

So, no finished products yet on the market?

I need at least six in, ideally 8+ out, 16 better

but daisy-chaining boxen via ADAT expansion for even more channels would be the ideal. The Master can have the active USB interface (TB) and BNC Clock

So I guess at this time just a wishlist, if anyone has links or ideas LMK

First pass at overall system plan, DSP multichannel - "simple version"

context, end goals https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/principles-time-of-arrival-delays-vs-phase-tuning.71596/post-2608572 https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/analog-crossovers-only-using-dsp-to-treat-issues-the-analog-system-cannot-fix.70409...

www.audiosciencereview.com

...

(dreaming, preamp controls on Master)

Balance/fader, ad hoc Tone knobs, maybe a programmable sub boost button, input select, Multi- vs 2ch vs Mono mode knob, also programmable

ideally adaptive Loudness contour tied to Volume control

or not, just leave it as set & forget DSP

 

[eric00886]

I will be very interested in your evaluation. Full disclosure, during my "sales pitch" I did not mention I have some age related HF hearing loss, so your subjective evaluation will be more accurate than mine. To my ears, it sounds great.

I believe theBru5 (and probably BDM9) AD/DSP/DA stuff all works at 44/48 kHz. That will disqualify it for HiDef audio fans, and will limit its s/n when measured. I will be particularly interested in how much impact you hear on sound quality.

The only 2 things I dislike about the amp are the flashing Bluetooth indicator, and that it defaults to the Bluetooth input on power up. It requires a tap on the "Pairing" button each time to get to Line in.

The BDM9 would seem to solve the flashing light issue. I see it has a Stereo/Mono line output for a separate amp/subwoofer. I will look more closely at it and will probably put one on order. I have already built a TPS3255 using the 3E board/power supply, so may be able to plug the BDM9 into that. NOTE if ordering, It seems to come with just 1 volume pot, the tone pots and additional cables plus the USB PC cable are available to order on the same page. The "Functional Cable Pack" appears back in stock.

I see that Wiim is promising that parametric EQ will finally be added to their streamers next month, so more cheap DSP options are becoming available.

Haha, I’ve been bothered by this blue light too!

1. It's way too bright.
2. It defaults to Bluetooth instead of RCA, which is what I actually use.

By the way, I’m not sure if you noticed, but the left and right audio channels are actually reversed between Bluetooth and RCA!

 

[GGroch]

Amazon US has reduced the BRU5 for the moment to $29.62. This is the best price I have seen in the U.S.

The Amazon listing says it has the newest firmware which allows you to change the default input to AUX instead of Bluetooth. This firmware, so far as I know, cannot be updated by the user on older BRU5s.

The manual says this is how you change the default input:

BRU5 has two input methods: Bluetooth and RCA. By clicking the button once, you can switch between these two input methods.
However, when you restart BRU5, the input method will be restored to the default input method. If you want to modify the default input
method, please follow the steps below:
1. Power off (by rotating the knob) . 2
2. Press and hold the 'PAIRING' button 1 without releasing it.
3. After holding the 'PAIRING' button 1 , power on the device(by rotating the knob) and continue holding the button for 10 seconds.
4. Release the 'PAIRING' button , power of 1 f the device again, and then power it on.
5. The default input method will be successfully changed upon startup

 

[eric00886]

Amazon US has reduced the BRU5 for the moment to $29.62. This is the best price I have seen in the U.S.

The Amazon listing says it has the newest firmware which allows you to change the default input to AUX instead of Bluetooth. This firmware, so far as I know, cannot be updated by the user on older BRU5s.

The manual says this is how you change the default input:

BRU5 has two input methods: Bluetooth and RCA. By clicking the button once, you can switch between these two input methods.
However, when you restart BRU5, the input method will be restored to the default input method. If you want to modify the default input
method, please follow the steps below:
1. Power off (by rotating the knob) . 2
2. Press and hold the 'PAIRING' button 1 without releasing it.
3. After holding the 'PAIRING' button 1 , power on the device(by rotating the knob) and continue holding the button for 10 seconds.
4. Release the 'PAIRING' button , power of 1 f the device again, and then power it on.
5. The default input method will be successfully changed upon startup

Super useful info, thanks! Though I'm guessing mine is probably the older version

 

[Mark185]

The BRU5 I purchased on Aliexpress supposedly had the correct firmware to change the default input method but I tried many many times to get that to work without success. Mine actually became stuck in bluetooth mode and would not come out of it. $29.62 is a very attractive price but not if the firmware is defective. At least with Amazon, it is not difficult to return if it is defective.

 

[GGroch]

I just received a Bru5 from the Amazon sale and can confirm it has the new firmware and the default input change works perfectly. You can switch it so it defaults to either Bluetooth or Aux, and since I never Bluetooth it, a good thing.

NOTE, I was very confused at first because the Bluetooth Pairing light continues to flash regardless of what mode it is in. I did not think the button would change inputs...it did, but the flashing kept up without interruption. That fooled me into thinking it would not switch inputs. I discovered it worked only by playing music through it while pushing the button. Perhaps it stops flashing when it is paired. Its quite bright and distracting.

I was considering opening the chassis and snipping the LED, but a Light Dim...full strength black-out edition, solved it in a second. I cannot see the LED at all. I bought a few packs in various strengths many years ago, I only use 4 or 5 a year but when you need them you need them.

 

[truth_soldier]

I just received a Bru5 from the Amazon sale and can confirm it has the new firmware and the default input change works perfectly. You can switch it so it defaults to either Bluetooth or Aux, and since I never Bluetooth it, a good thing.

NOTE, I was very confused at first because the Bluetooth Pairing light continues to flash regardless of what mode it is in. I did not think the button would change inputs...it did, but the flashing kept up without interruption. That fooled me into thinking it would not switch inputs. I discovered it worked only by playing music through it while pushing the button. Perhaps it stops flashing when it is paired. Its quite bright and distracting.

I was considering opening the chassis and snipping the LED, but a Light Dim...full strength black-out edition, solved it in a second. I cannot see the LED at all. I bought a few packs in various strengths many years ago, I only use 4 or 5 a year but when you need them you need them.

There was a post on DIYAudio back in 2024 (so old amps and firmware) that said he was able to set the default to RCA successfully in the DSP software here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/wondom-sure-bru5.397884/post-7571681

"I've now got it running so that the rca is the default input - by clicking off the mic input and then 'downloading' to 'flash' (aka the amp)."

I so far have not been able to do it in my BRU5. I have the two mic input check boxes not selected when I download/flash but it doesn't work for my amp - which is the TPA3244 version not the TPA3255, the rest of the DSP adjustments and flashing works fine though. I wonder where is the "mic input" he's talking about. Maybe I deselected the wrong one or on the wrong page/tab?

I set it up with LPF to test running it just as a bass amp for a bi-amped speaker project.
It works. So anyway, I will order the TPA3255 version now that I know it works. It's so cheap there's no reason to use the lower powered TPA3244 amp for bass-amp duties.

 

[GGroch]

It works. So anyway, I will order the TPA3255 version now that I know it works. It's so cheap there's no reason to use the lower powered TPA3244 amp for bass-amp duties.

Don't forget the Lightdims

 

[truth_soldier]

Don't forget the Lightdims

A black Sharpie will do. Btw, any way I can tell when buying on Aliexpress if it's the new version with the updated firmware vs old?

 

[Power Pop 23]

I just received a Bru5 from the Amazon sale and can confirm it has the new firmware and the default input change works perfectly. You can switch it so it defaults to either Bluetooth or Aux, and since I never Bluetooth it, a good thing.

NOTE, I was very confused at first because the Bluetooth Pairing light continues to flash regardless of what mode it is in. I did not think the button would change inputs...it did, but the flashing kept up without interruption. That fooled me into thinking it would not switch inputs. I discovered it worked only by playing music through it while pushing the button. Perhaps it stops flashing when it is paired. Its quite bright and distracting.

I was considering opening the chassis and snipping the LED, but a Light Dim...full strength black-out edition, solved it in a second. I cannot see the LED at all. I bought a few packs in various strengths many years ago, I only use 4 or 5 a year but when you need them you need them.

Thank you for the referral to 'LightDims'......

It may incentivize me to sample a TPA3255 amp that often sells for $40 at Amazon USA, albeit one with a bright ring of light around the volume control - per a customer photo

Amazon.com: LEAUDIO Cattle PRO High Performance Class D Power Amplifier Two RCA inputs 2.1 subwoofer TPA3255 : Electronics

Buy LEAUDIO Cattle PRO High Performance Class D Power Amplifier Two RCA inputs 2.1 subwoofer TPA3255: Amplifiers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Note - the above amp ships with 24 volt, 3 ampere power supply unit.

 

[GGroch]

Thank you for the referral to 'LightDims'......
It may incentivize me to sample a TPA3255 amp that often sells for $40 at Amazon USA, albeit one with a bright ring of light around the volume control - per a customer photo.

HAH....I'm a sucker for cheap amps, and the Cattle Pro was my last Dimming project. I swear I'm not an LD shill, (perhaps you are though I do not know how they would know I had a CPro.) The CP lights are very bright; blinding in a darkened room (mine is just above my computer desk). In this case instead of Blackout, I used their Original Strength, because I wanted to be able to see the power, source, and volume lights...just not so bright.

On the Cattle Pro all of the lights are on a board screwed to the back of the front panel. So, dissemble the case, unscrew the panel, and you can stick the dims to the board so they are totally invisible from the outside. I think I used 2 layers on the volume knob light as with 1 it was still too bright. My camera phone tries to brighten everything, but the 1st photo is near darkness. The source lights are visible but not bright in all light. The volume light can be seen only in a darker room. I understand you can use paint or electrical tape. I looked it up, I purchased a variety pack in 2018 for $16 and still have 3/4 of them. So, its not a major expense since I figure I have a least another decade before I'll need a refill.

BTW, the CP is a very nice amplifier. I left an Amazon review mentioning the 24v power supply it comes with which for my desktop is fine, but I think a 32-36 volt would be optimal and not overheat. It sounds....well like most all TPA3255 amps, near perfect.

 

[truth_soldier]

HAH....I'm a sucker for cheap amps, and the Cattle Pro was my last Dimming project. I swear I'm not an LD shill, (perhaps you are though I do not know how they would know I had a CPro.) The CP lights are very bright; blinding in a darkened room (mine is just above my computer desk). In this case instead of Blackout, I used their Original Strength, because I wanted to be able to see the power, source, and volume lights...just not so bright.

On the Cattle Pro all of the lights are on a board screwed to the back of the front panel. So, dissemble the case, unscrew the panel, and you can stick the dims to the board so they are totally invisible from the outside. I think I used 2 layers on the volume knob light as with 1 it was still too bright. My camera phone tries to brighten everything, but the 1st photo is near darkness. The source lights are visible but not bright in all light. The volume light can be seen only in a darker room. I understand you can use paint or electrical tape. I looked it up, I purchased a variety pack in 2018 for $16 and still have 3/4 of them. So, its not a major expense since I figure I have a least another decade before I'll need a refill.

BTW, the CP is a very nice amplifier. I left an Amazon review mentioning the 24v power supply it comes with which for my desktop is fine, but I think a 32-36 volt would be optimal and not overheat. It sounds....well like most all TPA3255 amps, near perfect.

That mooo amp (Cattle Pro) got some bad reviews about badly noisy output when the volume is turned up. Which sucks because it has some things going for it for such a low price like the dual-RCA inputs and the huge internal heat sink. But my quick look into it found a comment that it doesn't handle full 2 volt input well and it performs better if fed 1.5V.
I wonder if that's why it got some bad reviews from people who didn't know about that limitation/flaw?
That could explain why it now sells for less than half of it's initial $90 price. They should put out a V2 fixing that bug.

I also wonder if the amp chip is an authentic TPA3255 given 1) the power supply they provide with it - ok, this could be just cost cutting, and 2) the reports of distortion when driven hard. Anyone tried it with a 48V brick? that'd be the tell.

 

[truth_soldier]

BTW, the CP is a very nice amplifier

what were you driving it with and with what the default PS brick or what?
I'm curious if that comment about not handling 2V input is true or not.
in any event, since it doesn't have DSP it doesn't suit my needs for the current project.

 

[GGroch]

I have used the Cattle Pro with both its original 24v 3A power supply and a Nobsound 36v 6A and it stayed quite cool. I used it both on my main and desktop systems for about six weeks and noticed no issues at all. My WiiM Ultra is set for 2v max but I'm certain I never ran it at full volume. No issues. With the CP volume turned up, it gets VERY loud with the WiiM at 60%. I guess if you are using a DAC with no volume control you might run into the issue.

I noticed no noise. It is quieter on my system than the Wondom Bru5, but neither has a noise issue for me.

LeAudio is a major distributor of SMSL and Moondrop, I think they would be unlikely to create amplifiers using fake parts, but I have no direct knowledge.

Some of the Amazon reviewers appear to be confused. One complains the power supply is too small and then that the amp gets too hot. It certainly doesn't with its included supply. Another said it would not turn on. Perhaps, but you have to hold the power button down for about 2 seconds for it to boot. I thought mine might be defective until I realized that. Nice thing about Amazon is free returns.

 

[truth_soldier]

I have used the Cattle Pro with both its original 24v 3A power supply and a Nobsound 36v 6A and it stayed quite cool. I used it both on my main and desktop systems for about six weeks and noticed no issues at all. My WiiM Ultra is set for 2v max but I'm certain I never ran it at full volume. No issues. With the CP volume turned up, it gets VERY loud with the WiiM at 60%. I guess if you are using a DAC with no volume control you might run into the issue.

I noticed no noise. It is quieter on my system than the Wondom Bru5, but neither has a noise issue for me.

LeAudio is a major distributor of SMSL and Moondrop, I think they would be unlikely to create amplifiers using fake parts, but I have no direct knowledge.

Some of the Amazon reviewers appear to be confused. One complains the power supply is too small and then that the amp gets too hot. It certainly doesn't with its included supply. Another said it would not turn on. Perhaps, but you have to hold the power button down for about 2 seconds for it to boot. I thought mine might be defective until I realized that. Nice thing about Amazon is free returns.

me, trying to get Douk to create a better BRU5

Douk A5 Budget Stereo Amplifier Review

Thanks for assistance DanielT! I'm not very good in audio theory so excuse me for dumb questions. Let me bring it this way: I have Monitor 3 speakers, Paradigm recommends an amp between 15-150W and they're rated at 100W max input power. The above chart (not sure if it's even accurate) explains...

www.audiosciencereview.com

 

[truth_soldier]

Bought a quartet BRU-5s and immediately hated the software. Had a few weeks holliday in february and discovered vibecoding. Ended up making a tool for STVs Port Optimizer that spits out STLs, a speaker placement optimizer, a skin for the Hypex FA plateamp DSP designer and lots more. Also had a quick look at the BRU-5. Saw action in this thread yesterday and remembered that I did something, but not what. Found a beta version of an interface.

The BRU5 DSP Controller makes it much easier to access and use the controls. I made it public at: freespeakertools.com

There is an explanation of why you will need a "bridge" (some code thingy - dont ask me, Im vibecoding) to connect the browser to the USB of BRU5. Its something about the implementation of USB used for audio stuff like the BRU5. I have tried it out on two other PCs and everything works fine.

Here are screenshots of easy parametric EQ and the sort of advanced filters:

View attachment 532239

View attachment 532240


Have a look if you want.

What needs looking into that I remember:

• The way the DSP is run there is no "0" dB value on some settings just an approx. Someone should verify the dB settings. Not totally convinced +3dB is exactly that.
• The same goes for Q values and frequencies. (all might be fine but should be verified).
• The same goes for all other gain settings. Need to verify 0dB gain is exactly that. Hooking the thing up to REW and measuring should give peace of mind
• On the hardware side, there is som whining from the tweeter on my testspeaker. But thats a high sensivity horn-design. I find it totally acceptable for background listening.
• I also made a version for running two BRU5 controlling the crossover on both at the same time. Need to check it up before publishing. It worked well as I can remember.

@Naturlyd, thanks!... I used your BRU5 Config App and it worked to set the values, then I ran the ACPWorkbench to flash the BRU5.
I only use Linux but it worked running Windows in a Virtualbox VM with USB port Guest/Host passthrough configured.

 

[GGroch]

@Naturlyd, thanks!... I used your BRU5 Config App and it worked to set the values, then I ran the ACPWorkbench to flash the BRU5.

Do you have to use both the Bru5 config app and ACPWorkbench to make the PEQ values permanent? That is, can the Config App not flash the Bru5?

 

[truth_soldier]

That is, can the Config App not flash the Bru5?

I didn't see any flash button or way to do it from the FreeSpeakerTools Config App, so yeah I had to use ACPWorkbench [download] to flash it.
I think that is what @Naturlyd said above.

I ran the FreeSpeakerTools to easily set all the values, then started the USB bridge app (bru5_bridge_v0.3.5.exe) and then when I opened ACP-WB all the filter values were already set/populated and all I had to do was flash it.

The only snag I hit was by default ACP-WB had some unchecked values in the "PGA Tab" which disabled the RCA-inputs [Line1 Line2 Line4].
Once I selected all these and flashed it again it worked.

My BRU5 is an old version so I could not config the RCA input as default