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wondom bru5 pc dsp configurable TPA 3255 "300w x 2" mini amplifier

Roland68 said:
In fact, the TPA3116 can operate at up to 26V by default, but 24V is more common for power supplies. The wattage is irrelevant as long as it's large enough.

However, this thread is about the BRU5 with the TPA3255, which, as stated in the thread title, can operate at up to 48V.
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The TPA 3116 I used with a 12V 1A (don't laugh) it got plenty enough for living room .
The BRU 5 I only got last friday, hooked it up to a 20V FSP 6,35A, and looks fine. Both the 3116 and the Bru5 is not even warm with these PSU-s
But with 48V it gets hot (from other members) I seen most user use it with a 36 V. I also planned to use 36V Meanwell 150W (for 2 BRU5 in a case) maybe even the JAB5 will share that enclosure.
 
HalasKYO said:
For the BRU5 wondwom states 48V, with which it gets toasty. In the forum the coservative ax is 36V. what would be the optimal for the TPA3255? Ain't 20-24 V enough if only sub 10W is needed from them ? (maybe a puffer condensator between PSU and amp ~50-60V ...)
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Yes, that is right, like a truck, Just because its max load capacity is 3,000 kg, that doesn't mean it's a good idea to load it to the absolute limit every single time. By running it slightly under capacity - say, at 2,900 kg - you put far less stress on the engine, brakes, and suspension. This approach ensures the truck runs reliably and, most importantly, significantly extends its service life by reducing wear and tear.

So, My view is Max 48V is suitable for the TPA3225, Max 26V is suitable for the TPA3116, follow this Max standard and slightly lower it according to your own needs.
 
scorlee said:
Yes, that is right, like a truck, Just because its max load capacity is 3,000 kg, that doesn't mean it's a good idea to load it to the absolute limit every single time. By running it slightly under capacity - say, at 2,900 kg - you put far less stress on the engine, brakes, and suspension. This approach ensures the truck runs reliably and, most importantly, significantly extends its service life by reducing wear and tear.

So, My view is Max 48V is suitable for the TPA3225, Max 26V is suitable for the TPA3116, follow this Max standard and slightly lower it according to your own needs.
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What do you think, can I run 2-3 BRU5 or JAB5 from a 20V supply , and if so do I need to puffer the input (add a condensator in paralell which exceeds the input voltage ) that should also help with bass delivery and filter some of the ripple from supply. (1 have 2 bru5 and 1 jab 5, that is why I ask), I will not use it on high power for sure.
 
Roland68 said:
In fact, the TPA3116 can operate at up to 26V by default, but 24V is more common for power supplies. The wattage is irrelevant as long as it's large enough.

However, this thread is about the BRU5 with the TPA3255, which, as stated in the thread title, can operate at up to 48V.
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Yes, you are right, I agree with you
 
So I made some measurements with the BRU5, with normal Hifi speaker, the sound is analytic and the noisefloor is OK. But with the Compression driver (without crossover as I planned to use the DSP for that)... well, a lot of hiss..
I must add an L-pad or series resistor to pull down the sensitivity of the CD , otherwise I must use a different amp.
Did anyone made some mod to the amp (reduce gain?) to lower the noisefloor ? Or is it jus a theory?
 
HarŴonics said:
Interested in 2x of these anyway to connect 2 of them to drive 2x tweeters(1 Bru5) 2x woofers(Second Bru5).
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This amplifier isn't suitable for the tweeter; it's very noisy, and when listening to music quietly, the noise is audible. It's a good choice for a subwoofer for listening at not too loud a volume.
 
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Some users of this amplifier do not know how to change the default input source, this is how to do it:

Default Bluetooth or RCA settings for the BRUM5:
1-Turn on the amplifier.
2-Press and hold the "PAIRING" button.
3-Turn the amplifier off and on using the volume control and continue holding the button for another 5 seconds.
4-Release the button.
5-Turn the amplifier off and on again; the default mode will switch to the opposite.
 
It is generally advised not to use Wondom products with sensitive speakers. (It doesn't matter if it is a compression driver, or a sensitive PA SUB/Midwoofer). If you want lower noise, you should look for Hypex, purifi, or 3E Audio products .
3e Audio website
ASR Review
Audiophonics website

They are quiete good in value, but they don't have DSP.
THe company will do specialized builts according to their website, so it is question how long stock will still be available, but I think these are the cheapest Class D- witch are quality design and build quality.

I have the BRU 5, decent for normal (not tooo sensitive speakers) the DSP even sweetens the pot.
I use it for testing changing bettwen BRU5 and JAB5.
BRU5 is a ready to go solution with 2ch and JAB5 is a 4ch amp (biamp scenario) and has 2 option for DSP - Has a simple surface or sigma studio for experts.
I would say BRU5 DSP software lays between the 2. More settings than the JAB5 simple surface (Miumi app) but much simpler as the sigma.
Sounds similar, noise is also similar.
 
Hi, everyone!

I just got this amplifier, and I'm really annoyed by the high-frequency continuous whining noise when connecting via Bluetooth.
I took it apart and I tried to increase the filtering of the BP1048B2 IC power supply. I replaced the capacitors on the LDOIN and LDO33DO pins, which were audibly whining even without a speaker connected to the output. I tried replacing the ferrite bead with another one that filters the radio frequency part. I reduced the BP1048B2 power supply voltage from 4.24V to 3.4V to see if it would improve its performance, as it heated up to around 60 degrees Celsius on the thermal camera. I hoped that with the reduced voltage it would produce less noise, but none of my attempts so far have been successful. In my final desperation, I reduced the gain of the NE5532s by -12dB, which reduced the noise, but it is still very disturbing.
Is there a fault in the DSP chip of my amplifier, or is Bluetooth just as annoyingly unusable for others too?
 
If you have it connected to a PC by mini USB, the noise is normal. Pull the USB plug and it is perfectly silent. This is for unmodified BRU5, of course.

I fear you tried to fix something that was not broken, it might be now. The USB is only for adjusting the DSP, not for audio!
 
Wolf11Man said:
If you have it connected to a PC by mini USB, the noise is normal. Pull the USB plug and it is perfectly silent. This is for unmodified BRU5, of course.

I fear you tried to fix something that was not broken, it might be now. The USB is only for adjusting the DSP, not for audio!
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Hi, if you wrote this to me, I don't know what made you think that. English is not my native language, so I may have phrased it ambiguously. Of course, the Bluetooth input noise is not caused by the USB cable. I connected it to computer to adjust the amplifier's DSP settings, but effects don't help with radio frequency interference. Just because a product is not defective (although I don't think the BP1048B2 works perfectly in this case) does not mean that the device is not faulty in design. Since I changed the 10k resistor at the input of the two channels to 39k, the hiss of the amplifier has practically disappeared, and the sound quality of the RCA inputs in wired mode has improved significantly. So I recommend this modification to anyone who has the necessary soldering experience. It involves replacing 0603 size resistors. The noise floor dropped dramatically, the decrease in the TPA3255's preamplification can be easily compensated by adjusting the DSP settings.

If you are interested in the processor, you can read about it here, although I have not been able to find an explanation for its very high noise level.
yOAkm6kJ.jpg
 
Tartarus said:
Since I changed the 10k resistor at the input of the two channels to 39k, the hiss of the amplifier has practically disappeared, and the sound quality of the RCA inputs in wired mode has improved significantly. So I recommend this modification to anyone who has the necessary soldering experience. It involves replacing 0603 size resistors. The noise floor dropped dramatically, the decrease in the TPA3255's preamplification can be easily compensated by adjusting the DSP settings.
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Not easy to guess schematic from photo, but it looks like 2 inverting opamps with gain -1 each. Since DSP chip outputs 1V RMS and amps have gain of 12, it would mean that maximum power for 4 Ohm is 144W.
Replacing 10k with 39k reduce maximum power to about 10W and no DSP programming can compensate.
If my guess of schematic is correct, then unmodified BRU5 won't profit from supply voltage higher than 36V.
 
My amp arrived. I did some tests. Here my obserwations.

I have cleared all DSP effects, disabled mic DAC, added dither option to output DAC. I can't disable 3-rd DAC, so I have set minimal gain for it.
I have estimated, that 0dB of input gain is about 1V RMS sensivity. Default settnig is +1.6dB, which could be 0.85V, like in chip manual. I have set input gain to -6.4dB, which should allow 2V input from my streamer. I have done configuration with program provided by seller. I was not able to flash changes with newer versions.

I can hear noise, when very near a speaker. This is idle noise, at the level, which can be tolerated. But there is some noise gate active, even after clearing DSP effects. When music starts, noise increases. I listen at low volume, which makes this nois unacceptable. When playing sinus wave at -60dB, noise is at similar level as tone. For comparison, I can't hear any nois, when doing this test with Fosi TB10D.

Edit: decided to remove dither option from DAC and it is much less noisy.
 
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popej said:
My amp arrived. I did some tests. Here my obserwations.

I have cleared all DSP effects, disabled mic DAC, added dither option to output DAC. I can't disable 3-rd DAC, so I have set minimal gain for it.
I have estimated, that 0dB of input gain is about 1V RMS sensivity. Default settnig is +1.6dB, which could be 0.85V, like in chip manual. I have set input gain to -6.4dB, which should allow 2V input from my streamer. I have done configuration with program provided by seller. I was not able to flash changes with newer versions.

I can hear noise, when very near a speaker. This is idle noise, at the level, which can be tolerated. But there is some noise gate active, even after clearing DSP effects. When music starts, noise increases. I listen at low volume, which makes this nois unacceptable. When playing sinus wave at -60dB, noise is at similar level as tone. For comparison, I can't hear any nois, when doing this test with Fosi TB10D.

Edit: decided to remove dither option from DAC and it is much less noisy.
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I remember that at the top of the DSP settings list there's a noise gate effect too
 
I recently purchased a BRU5 amplifier on Aliexpress. After some difficulty, I found a download link for ACPWorkbench and installed on my Windows 11 machine. I read most of this thread and understand how the software is supposed to work. It still took me a while to figure it out and I have to say, it is some of the most non-user friendly software I have ever seen. BRU5 current price is closer to $50 than $30 as reported in earlier posts. It really is not worth it at that price.

After the frustration, I bought a Tinysine DSP board and it just flat out works with no drama and no wasted time. Connects with ease to Sigma Studio and programming it is much more straightforward after you watch some tutorial videos on YouTube. I have also experimented with the Wondom DSP boards and programmers sold by Parts Express. There are problems with connecting the board to a PC running Sigma Studio consistently and the analog outputs are not as easily configurable as the TinySine board.

My time is worth something. TinySine is a bit more expensive but not by a lot and their stuff works reliably. I am done with Wondom products.
 
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EDzhogan said:
Some users of this amplifier do not know how to change the default input source, this is how to do it:

Default Bluetooth or RCA settings for the BRUM5:
1-Turn on the amplifier.
2-Press and hold the "PAIRING" button.
3-Turn the amplifier off and on using the volume control and continue holding the button for another 5 seconds.
4-Release the button.
5-Turn the amplifier off and on again; the default mode will switch to the opposite.
Click to expand...
This does not work with my BRU5. I have tried literally for hours to get this amp to work with the RCA inputs. It is stuck on bluetooth pairing mode. I read the manual. I searched the internet. I even tried using Google Gemini AI to help me. Nothing worked. I know I said I was done with Wondom but I still have hope I can solve this problem. In the meantime, I have already programmed a Tinysine DSP using Sigma Studio and purchased a couple of Wuhzi Audio TPA3116 amplifiers. I am building a portable stereo in a Harbor Freight Apache 3800 case. DSP for active crossover and parametric EQ. Front end is an older Teyes android head unit with optical out. I attached CDT Audio full range speaker pods to the case for frequencies above 300 Hz. I am using a very old pair of Morel MW144 5" woofers for the low end in their own separate enclosures.

I was really hoping to use the BRU5 to drive the Morels and TPA3116 chip amps for the CDT Audio pods. The 3116's can run on 12 volts and I am adapting Milwaukee 18 volt tool battery to power the woofer amplifer. You can buy battery adapters that enable using tool batteries for these portable boom boxes and they have low voltage drop out safety circuits built in so you don't drain the battery to the point of damage. For now I will use TPA3116 amps for pods and woofers.

If anyone is thinking of following a similar path for a DIY system with DSP, I can tell you it took me a couple of days to watch Sigma Studio tutorial videos in my spare time and then about 4 hours to design my own signal processing suite for the TinySine 1701 DSP board. This DSP is far more capable than the one in BRU5 and has a much better user interface. I think I spent $50 on the TinySine DSP board including external potentiometer kit for volume and tone controls. ZK1002 amplifiers with the 3116 chips were $20 each. Sigma Studio software is free. Google Gemini is actually very helpful for explaining how to program in Sigma Studio in that it will explain things the YouTube videos do not explain. You just have to ask the right questions with the AI. I am very impressed.

Long story short, The TinySine and ZK products are better than Wondom parts by a wide margin. I have invested considerable time in both product lines learning how to use them. I am a EE so I understand the technology. My frustration with Wondom is not due to incompetence. Their products are buggy and manufacturer support is not good.

In my bedroom sound system, I am currently using a pair of Fosi V3 Mono amps for satellite speakers and an Aiyima A07 Max in mono mode to drive a small subwoofer. They sound great for the money. The quality of those amps for the dollar underscore how bad the BRU5 is. When it was $30, it was worth experimenting with. At $50, I say buy the Aiyima on sale and get a TinySine 1701 board. You will not be disappointed.
 
Mark185 said:
This does not work with my BRU5. I have tried literally for hours to get this amp to work with the RCA inputs. It is stuck on bluetooth pairing mode
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Blue LED never stops blinking, when in RCA mode, but switching inputs works for me. Short press to switch temporary, 15 second press while turning on to switch defaults.
 
Can anyone recommend an amp about this size that runs mono, or is bridgeable? It would be great if the PSU is built in but I realize that's highly unlikely. BT is not necessary, will be using wired connection
 
popej said:
Blue LED never stops blinking, when in RCA mode, but switching inputs works for me. Short press to switch temporary, 15 second press while turning on to switch defaults.
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Tried this and my unit will not play anything from RCA inputs. It is stuck in bluetooth pairing mode. The Wondom version of ACPWorkbench does not allow any control over bluetooth function and factory reset has no impact on this situation. I am under impression that other vendors' versions of the software give you control over bluetooth function and other enhanced features. I may try another version to see if it can work with BRU5 and solve my problem.

The other lesson learned is do not expect much in the way of customer support from Wondom on Aliexpress. At least with Amazon, you have the option to return defective items. Aliexpress says returns are possible but long delays make this option one I do not care to try.
 
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