If you don't need the DSP function, I would advise against it. It also has very little power, as many of the components are undersized.
From what I read it seems it has plenty of power into 4ohm with the 48v 10a power supply. Is that BS???
Where did you read that?
I have speakers with 8" chassis and 93 dB efficiency, 30 watts is enough to make people run away, something like that has zero meaning.
Yea that's what I was trying to save save as much $ as possible since it's just for the rears. I think I'm just going to go with an Audiosource Amp100. Should do better then both of those choices. The Bru5 with aiyima 48v 5a would be $50. Just found a mint audiosource amp100 basically new for $38 with shipping. That's a no brainer. Thanks for your input brother. Appreciate it.
Side note on Audiosource amp: I have close to a dozen of these Amp 102 (not 100), 200, 300, sub210, driving in-ceiling and in-wall speakers. Measurements are probably average, and they are inefficient (class AB… but I heat my house 8-9 months a year).
I went to look if it had socketed opamps, which it does not, and then wondered what the heck these two very large chips are?
Why do you said that this has very low power ?
This was a post I wrote for @TheAudioFook, which suggested using a 48V 10A power supply to get more power. The components used in this amplifier are far too underpowered for that.Why do you said that this has very low power ?
I used for a better part of the last 3-4 year a TPA3116 2.1 (2x50+100W sub) with only a ****** 12V/1A power brick, and it was plenty loud (with some very old Sony SS-RX88 hifi speakers. Some hiss were present, but I aknowladge that to the supply. Why I turned up the volume to much, then the LED stated to blink, but normal use was 100% usable. If this experience is anything to go by, the BRU5 should be much, much more powerfull. I ordered 2 for a DIY project, for 8" PA woofer, and Compression + Horn, biamped with DSP crossing (will put a coil and cap on the CD to be 100% sure). First I will test with a 19V laptop supply and later I plan to use a meanwell 36V5A. ~150W. Thath should be plenty enough for a spaker 94dB/W
You are right I got it out of context. But what speaker would be that this power is not enough ? For example with 36V 5-10A . That would mean ~130W at 4Ohm, ~74W on 8Ohm. that is 8x3dB at 4Ohm =24dB + Speaker lets assume 86dB that is 110dB in whole space. If you halfes that 2x (floor and 1 wall) that additional +6dB... For 8 Ohm That is roughly 7x3dB =21dB ,with the same 86dB would be 107 + 6 from room. In normal listening is it not plenty ? (I am not talking about reference level, or driving a HUGE SUB). Bookself speaker, or towet I think that should be plenty. Of course the 48V 10A doesn't make sense with that you could power 2 of these easily. But I think if you have a halfway decent sensitivity speaker, a not fully treated room (space halfings) and a 50W clean amp, that should be sufficient for 95%. The top 5 will use dedicated amps not these 30€ cheap things.
I just want to do that! I will write my experience, I will use active crossing in the BRU5 and maybe later build a crossover.
For the BRU5 wondwom states 48V, with which it gets toasty. In the forum the coservative ax is 36V. what would be the optimal for the TPA3255? Ain't 20-24 V enough if only sub 10W is needed from them ? (maybe a puffer condensator between PSU and amp ~50-60V ...)
In fact, the TPA3116 can operate at up to 26V by default, but 24V is more common for power supplies. The wattage is irrelevant as long as it's large enough.