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Wiring Speakon and Banana plugs

I can see how using a ferrule assures that the strands stay together, so the connection can be improved.
The ferrule adds resistance, so is likely that ferrules add more than they take away, or is it just so small that it does not matter?

- Rich
 
Crimping ferrules went well.
1714093423002.jpeg

Thanks to all for the advice.

- Rich
 
RichB said:
The ferrule adds resistance, so is likely that ferrules add more than they take away, or is it just so small that it does not matter?
Click to expand...

The copper is pressed so firmly inside the ferrules as to make an incredibly low resistance connection. It's better than soldering, lasts longer and is much stronger.

Just for fun, crimp on a ferrule to a loop of scrap wire and try to pull it apart...
 
poopy said:
Looks good! Are those the WBT ones?
Click to expand...
Yes, those are WBT going into WBT. Yeah, probably not worth it.
Though, I expect stripping the wires and creating new connections after 8 years, is a good thing.

I also plan to redo the SpeakOns with ferrules in a week or so.

- Rich
 
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RichB said:
Yes, those are WBT going into WBT. Yeah, probably not worth it.
Though, I expect stripping the wires and creating new connections after 8 years, isa good thing.

I also plan to redo the SpeakOns with ferrules in a week or so.

- Rich
Click to expand...

I suppose even though total resistance has now dropped, say by 100mOhm, between amp and speaker terminal, I don't see how you're going to hear any difference...

However, the connection you have now is neat and can't be improved much I'd think. Which is the overall goal I figure of your operation.

Which WBT banana plugs are you referring to?
I like those ones:

 
poopy said:
I suppose even though total resistance has now dropped, say by 100mOhm, between amp and speaker terminal, I don't see how you're going to hear any difference...

However, the connection you have now is neat and can't be improved much I'd think. Which is the overall goal I figure of your operation.

Which WBT banana plugs are you referring to?
I like those ones:

Click to expand...
Those are the ones.

- Rich
 
I went back a reworked the SpeakOns on all channels using Ferrules.
Some didn't need it but others where a bit wonky, especially the first attempts to wire them.

Do they sound better, I think so, but after this effort, I have to :p

I found this at the end of an Audioholics video that demonstrates the value of compressing the wire connectors.
They don't make the case for ferrules directly, but I think the case is made.

I bought WBT because they are the best and price was not an issue.
But if it were, I think I might just use Ferrules at the speaker and insert them directly into the binding posts.

- Rich
 
Not sure how you would use ferrules directly at the speakers. You may need a low gauge speaker cable so that the diameter of the compressed ferrule fitted on the cable is large enough to fit exactly in the holes of your speaker binding posts? I mean you’d need the thickness of a regular banana plug.
 
poopy said:
Not sure how you would use ferrules directly at the speakers. You may need a low gauge speaker cable so that the diameter of the compressed ferrule fitted on the cable is large enough to fit exactly in the holes of your speaker binding posts? I mean you’d need the thickness of a regular banana plug.
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I suspect they have 5-way binding posts and would insert the ferrule-crimped wire the same way they would use bare wire. Slide it into the bare wire hole, and screw down the binding post to grip it in place.
 
rcstevensonaz said:
I suspect they have 5-way binding posts and would insert the ferrule-crimped wire the same way they would use bare wire. Slide it into the bare wire hole, and screw down the binding post to grip it in place.
Click to expand...
Of course, this triggered a very pressing research question... what are the 5 different ways? (Especially since I was supposed to be doing "real work" today instead :cool:)

Wikipedia provides a summary of the 5 methods for the Binding Post, which was originally produced by General Radio. The ferrule-crimped wire would correspond to the "pin connector" method:
  1. Banana plugs, inserted into the top open end of the binding post.
  2. Bare wire inserted through the same hole and clamped.
  3. Bare wire wrapped around the metal post and clamped.
  4. Pin connector, inserted into a hole drilled through the metal post and clamped by the screw-down portion of the binding post.
  5. Alligator clip.
Of course, Wikipedia is not entirely correct... it was updated to add the Alligator clip (method #5), but method #3 should instead be a Spade Lug. At least, according to General Radio. And based on my limited research, General Radio should know since they invented the damn thing.

Going further back in time, this General Radio catalog (1948) shows the part "Binding Post 938" on page number 206. Interestingly, this article in The General Radio Experimenter (June 1952) shows a 6th connection method on page 3; but that method is only available for 938 binding posts that have a metal rather than plastic part for the top.
 
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RichB said:
I went back a reworked the SpeakOns on all channels using Ferrules.
Some didn't need it but others where a bit wonky, especially the first attempts to wire them.

Do they sound better, I think so, but after this effort, I have to :p

I found this at the end of an Audioholics video that demonstrates the value of compressing the wire connectors.
They don't make the case for ferrules directly, but I think the case is made.

I bought WBT because they are the best and price was not an issue.
But if it were, I think I might just use Ferrules at the speaker and insert them directly into the binding posts.

- Rich
Click to expand...
I forgot the to add the link:


Ferrules work better than pliers so...

- Rich
 
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Sorry to revive this old thread, but I've been considering my options to terminate the wiring from my AVR to a wall plate, and then from there to my in-wall/ceiling speakers and this discussion is directly relevant. Rather than using bananas, it seems like crimping down some ferrules on the ends of my speaker wire and then attaching them to the binding posts as "bare-wire" connections would be the best option in terms of contact resistance and preventing the connections from coming loose and/or corroding over time. Is this right?
 
kyuu said:
Sorry to revive this old thread, but I've been considering my options to terminate the wiring from my AVR to a wall plate, and then from there to my in-wall/ceiling speakers and this discussion is directly relevant. Rather than using bananas, it seems like crimping down some ferrules on the ends of my speaker wire and then attaching them to the binding posts as "bare-wire" connections would be the best option in terms of contact resistance and preventing the connections from coming loose and/or corroding over time. Is this right?
Click to expand...
That is fine but sometimes they don't fit well into the speaker bindings.

I have used these with ferrules, and they work very well.


- Rich
 
RichB said:
That is fine but sometimes they don't fit well into the speaker bindings.
Click to expand...
When you say "that's fine" do you mean it would work (assuming the crimped ferrule fit into the binding post) but you don't consider it optimal, or...?
RichB said:
I have used these with ferrules, and they work very well.

Click to expand...
Those look quite nice as bananas go, but for connections as I'm describing, particularly inside the walls, that will likely be sitting undisturbed for years is there any advantage at all to going with bananas?
 
kyuu said:
When you say "that's fine" do you mean it would work (assuming the crimped ferrule fit into the binding post) but you don't consider it optimal, or...?

Those look quite nice as bananas go, but for connections as I'm describing, particularly inside the walls, that will likely be sitting undisturbed for years is there any advantage at all to going with bananas?
Click to expand...
For me, it was not optimal, but if you can use ferrules and they fit in and secure, then they should be a great option.

- Rich
 
RichB said:
Angled Banana Compression
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I love me some Angled Banana Compression.

On a more serious note, I was just wondering the same. Looks like everybody with this question online is using Canare 4S11 somehow. I'm upgrading to 4S11 in preparation for a beefier amp and beefier speakers, and started to worry about straining my speakers binding posts with the heavier cable. I settled on spades plus ferrules as the way to go. For EU-based members, these options look nice:
www.audiophonics.fr

ELECAUDIO FC-101 Pure copper Gold Plated Spade Plug Ø5mm (Unit) - Audiophonics

Here is a robust ELECAUDIO fork with careful and irreproachable finishes. Accepts cables with diameter Ø 5mm maximum.
www.audiophonics.fr www.audiophonics.fr
www.audiophonics.fr

JANTZEN AUDIO Spade Plug Gold Plated Ø3.8mm (Pair) - Audiophonics

jantzen-audio-spade-plug-gold-plated-o-38mm-unite
www.audiophonics.fr www.audiophonics.fr
 
The thing about spades is I recall seeing in a thread somewhere (can't find it atm) that spades have the highest contact resistance among the common terminating methods, IIRC.

Whether it makes any meaningful difference in your average setup is a good question, however.
 
kyuu said:
The thing about spades is I recall seeing in a thread somewhere (can't find it atm) that spades have the highest contact resistance among the common terminating methods, IIRC.

Whether it makes any meaningful difference in your average setup is a good question, however.
Click to expand...
I used spades for some stuff and it's so important that a tight firm squeeze is put on them.
 
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