Will I tangibly benefit from adding power?

[Multicore]

Only with a line source you could have 3db/double distance.
A 'point' source should really do around 6dB.

In free space. What about in a bedroom?

 

[DanielT]

Now, if you want to do REQ, some more power might be useful by allowing you to fill nulls a little bit but you need to be careful with this. Anyway, learning how to apply REQ is another topic.

Absolutely, it can be so.

I spin further on the power theme. You know this, so this is more directed to others reading this thread:

For example, dropping 3dB to get a better FR means double amp power is needed. Since the OP's speakers, the Revel M106, in that case will be driven harder.Can they handle it? Most likely for the higher frequencies (unless you are a play high volume SPL maniac) but for the lower frequencies?
Unfortunately, Amir does not test the dynamic range, performs a compression test for the Revel M106 BUT you can clearly see that they do not like to be pushed hard in the lowest bass regions. Higher up in frequency SOTA levels. Really good speakers.

Revel M106 Bookshelf Speaker Review

This is a review and detailed measurements of the Revel M106 bookshelf speaker. It was kindly purchased and drop shipped to me. It is not a new sample but came to me with full packaging and protective wrapper. The M106 costs US $1,000 each or $2,000 for a pair. It is only sold through dealer...

audiosciencereview.com

Conclusion, as usual, add subwoofers. That IF you have the time and desire to work on achieving a good integration between sub speakers (not the easiest, I think, but it can really pay off). HP-LP filter between sub and speakers to relieve the load from the speakers AND the amplifier that powers them up. Level of power handling on the subwoofers and power level of the subwoofer amplifier? The usual answer: A LOT (except if you don't get around that with physically large subwoofer boxes).

For small sealed subwoofers, a ridiculous amount of power is needed. For example. I had a small SVS subwoofer last year. SVS SB12-NSD. A sub with a 12 inch subwoofer driver. It hade a built-in amp of 400W RMS (800W peak). Even at medium volume, with decent bass dynamic music, the clipping indicator started flashing.
At lower volume it was superb. But do you want a subwoofer that you can't push hard sometimes? Two or more such SVS subwoofers would have been good to have, but I solved it in a different way.

 

[Multicore]

There's no replacement for cubic displacement. Or such was roughly the lesson I learned from my main monitors question.

 

[fadetoblackbs]

A nc502mp amp should have enough gain for the output voltage of your current avr. Purifi and higher model hypex amps need more input voltage then what your avr can output cleanly.

I found this comment interesting as I am in a similar situation. My AVR Preouts (RCA) have 1V. Is that enough for Purifi/Hypex Amps? Thanks

 

[ryanmh1]

I found this comment interesting as I am in a similar situation. My AVR Preouts (RCA) have 1V. Is that enough for Purifi/Hypex Amps? Thanks

Generally, no. Only IOM seems to have one that works with low level pre-outs reasonably well, with a variable gain over 30dB. NAD standardizes around 28dB I believe. They're among the highest. Most of cheapy integrator outputs just provide a bunch of largely worthless additional low and medium gain modes.

 

[fadetoblackbs]

Generally, no. Only IOM seems to have one that works with low level pre-outs reasonably well, with a variable gain over 30dB. NAD standardizes around 28dB I believe. They're among the highest. Most of cheapy integrator outputs just provide a bunch of largely worthless additional low and medium gain modes.

So how could I identify a good working Class D Amp for my AVR if the Preouts have 1V? Thank you.

 

[ryanmh1]

Odds are, the AVR is good enough anyway unless you're trying to drive something either very efficient and have noise issues, or woefully inefficient floorstanders. In other words, just use the speakers jacks you have. If you can't use a Hypex, you're not going to identify a Class D that is meaningfully more "transparent" if that's what you're after. Most of them aren't. And most of them outside of a Hypex aren't going to add much power over the AVR (i.e. the bulk of those crappy ChiFi amps in a tiny little metal box). You would really have to post what you have and why you're trying to achieve it to see if this even makes sense in the first place.

 

[fadetoblackbs]

I only would like to understand why the other user wrote that 1V is not enough for Purify/Hypex Amps and what options would work as that made me curious. I dont want to discuss my usecase or if it makes sense or not =)

 

[Hayabusa]

I only would like to understand why the other user wrote that 1V is not enough for Purify/Hypex Amps and what options would work as that made me curious. I dont want to discuss my usecase or if it makes sense or not =)

from the hypex nc400 datasheet:

So you need 2V at least to reach max power.

 

[Hayabusa]

I only would like to understand why the other user wrote that 1V is not enough for Purify/Hypex Amps and what options would work as that made me curious. I dont want to discuss my usecase or if it makes sense or not =)

what avr do you have?

 

[fadetoblackbs]

what avr do you have?

what avr do you have?

Pioneer VSX-LX505
In the Datasheet of the AVR I read that the RCA Preouts have 1V. Will this be a problem if I hook up an Hype or Purifi Amp? What does it mean in reality? =)

 

[Hayabusa]

Pioneer VSX-LX505
In the Datasheet I read that the RCA Preouts have 1V. Will this be a problem if I hook up a Hypex Amp?

Here is the review of the LX505, it can do 2volt out

 

[fadetoblackbs]

Here is the review of the LX505, it can do 2volt out

OK I found 1V in the official Datashett from the AVR, see the attachment - that does not match with the 2V review value.

 

[Hayabusa]

OK I found 1V in the official Datashett from the AVR, see the attachment - that does not match with the 2V review value.

I would trust the measurements

 

[Oddball]

I guess the Revel recommended amp rating for the speakers is 50-150W, which with sensitivity of 87dB is not meant to raise sonic hell on earth but could apparently (per the calculator) do 104dB at 8 feet distance with 150W amp. I don't think it is wise to use amps higher rated than speaker manufacturer recommended, but also see below.

Two charts posted above clearly show that you would not want to go even to 96dB as distortion becomes too taxing and high above 80-120hz crossover range (that is generally recommended). This would require 25W under above assumptions and per calculator.

One might want to stay around 86dB and cross over at 80 or 100 hz as distortion is also rising at 50hz at that SPL, so you want to make sure that 50hz frequency hitting the bookshelf is at lower dB so distortion does not happen. This is in case there is sub out there. If not (or even with the sub), the roll-off should be adjusted in the EQ system so that it does not cause audible distortion or even worse damage the speaker. The calculator shows that you would need only 2.5W to achieve this, but that is generally not the case as different frequencies will require different and likely greater power/current.

If someone wants large amps, they require large speakers, and even those will struggle in low frequencies at SPL of 105dB. Then there are professional speakers that could do this easier if you really want to throw a party for the whole neighbourhood.