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WiiM Vibelink Amp Review

Rate this amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 5 1.8%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 20 7.0%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 167 58.6%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 93 32.6%

  • Total voters
    285
Is there a scenario where different input sensitivity isn’t due to gain?
Two amplifiers can have the same gain (say 19dB) but very different input sensitivities (say 200mV or 1.5V) and of course there will be differences in potentiometer positions for the same volume level.
 
Two amplifiers can have the same gain (say 19dB) but very different input sensitivities (say 200mV or 1.5V) and of course there will be differences in potentiometer positions for the same volume level.

0.2V + 19 dB = 1.7825V
1.5V + 19 dB = 13.37V

The first amplifier is a 1.7825^2/8 =0.397 watt into 8 ohm amplifier

The second amplifier is a
13.37^2/8 =22.345 watt amplifier rated into 8 ohms.

Input sensitivity is just what input you need to get to the advertised or “rated” output.

The potentiometer is just going to be a variable going from 100% to 0%
 
No Step Volume Control
No XLR input
No Remote Control
No Volume Bypass (Pure Power Amp Mode)
No Sub Out
No USB In

What is the selling point of this amp, making it stands out of typical TPA3255 PFFB amps (a bunch of this new-gen amp on aliexpress and taobao) ?
I am much happier with my 3e audio A7 power amp...
(for personal taste, paring with tube buffer and passive step volume control preamp)
 
What is the selling point of this amp, making it stands out of typical TPA3255 PFFB amps (a bunch of this new-gen amp on aliexpress and taobao) ?
For one, it's available through multiple regular sales channels, including Amazon, not just through AliExpress. :) Since when the heck is tabasco a market place?

I am much happier with my 3e audio A7 power amp...
How do you know if you didn't compare? ;)

Some thoughts on the A7:
No Step Volume Control
No Remote Control
No Sub Out
No USB In
No Optical In
No Coaxial In

Does is matter? Obviously, it doesn't matter to you. Others might care about different things like a built-in power supply, having the choice between analog and digital inputs or a nice stylish case with superb heat management.

(for personal taste, paring with tube buffer and passive step volume control preamp)
That tube buffer should introduce enough distortion to make these amps sound the same, indeed. ;)
 
For one, it's available through multiple regular sales channels, including Amazon, not just through AliExpress. :) Since when the heck is tabasco a market place?


How do you know if you didn't compare? ;)

Some thoughts on the A7:
No Step Volume Control
No Remote Control
No Sub Out
No USB In
No Optical In
No Coaxial In

Does is matter? Obviously, it doesn't matter to you. Others might care about different things like a built-in power supply, having the choice between analog and digital inputs or a nice stylish case with superb heat management.


That tube buffer should introduce enough distortion to make these amps sound the same, indeed. ;)
Actually, the digital inputs
For one, it's available through multiple regular sales channels, including Amazon, not just through AliExpress. :) Since when the heck is tabasco a market place?


How do you know if you didn't compare? ;)

Some thoughts on the A7:
No Step Volume Control
No Remote Control
No Sub Out
No USB In
No Optical In
No Coaxial In

Does is matter? Obviously, it doesn't matter to you. Others might care about different things like a built-in power supply, having the choice between analog and digital inputs or a nice stylish case with superb heat management.


That tube buffer should introduce enough distortion to make these amps sound the same, indeed. ;)
the A7 is supposed to be used as a pure power amp indeed.
The volume control knob/pot is actually a handy bonus.
with RCA input, XLR input, Pure Power Amp Mode, TPA3255 PFFB, good heat management, bonus volume control,
A7 is designed purpose-oriented.

for accurate audio decode/colouration/precise step volume control, anything else
user can just pair the amp with their prefered gears.

I love my Wiim Ultra.
Using Wiim Ultra > USB DDC > sets of I2S/AES/coaxial/Toslink DAC > kinds of active/passive/tube preamp
However, for the amp, I prefer design more focusing on its analog input flexibility and its basic analog amplication role.

for the WiiM Vibelink Amp, it is designed to pair with Wiim streaming products which already have decent DAC chips.
Serving as an amp in the wiim stack, I can see its necessity of having digital inputs.
But customer spends extra cost for an additional DAC chip.
And it lack of a remote, precise step volume control, vol bypass for optimal audio quality, XLR input for other professional audio equipments.
which make me think it doesn't stand out of other TPA3255 PFFB Amps and cost is not spent effectively.
 
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This evening my Vibelink received a software update that provides the option to turn it off using the Wiim app.
 
This evening my Vibelink received a software update that provides the option to turn it off using the Wiim app.
... and to turn it on again, I hope. :)

Edit:
And the answer is, of course, yes.
 
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Do people think this will be powerful enough for a pair of Monitor Audio Studio 20 SE? Going to buy a pair I think

They are from ~1995 with sensitivity of 89 dB/W/m, an impedance of 8 ohms, and a power handling capacity of up to 200 watts

I have a Wiim Ultra so would like this to work. I won't be using them particularly loudly as I'm in a terraced house, and I'll be using the system for both music and films so I thought a class-D like this made sense. If not, any suggestions?

I'll probably order it off Amazon and can return if doesn't work, but I'm also curious if anyone is like 'noo that'd be a silly combo'

My budget can go a lot higher but small form factor is appreciated too like this has

Thanks
 
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Vibelink should have no trouble driving those.
Thanks. Have changed my mind and have some KEF LS50 Meta's arriving. Will probably still get the vibelink, unless others think a topping product or something else would sound better.

Quite like the idea of Ultra+Vibelink +LS50 Meta's, basically leaning in to a very modern clean neutral sound I guess.

(have LS3/5A and old valve amp in my other room)

edit: I've now got both vibelink and a Rotel RA-10 off ebay coming, going to see if mr Darko is onto something here: https://darko.audio/2017/07/happy-accidents-will-happen-rotels-ra-10-integrated-amplifier/
 
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0.2V + 19 dB = 1.7825V
1.5V + 19 dB = 13.37V

The first amplifier is a 1.7825^2/8 =0.397 watt into 8 ohm amplifier

The second amplifier is a
13.37^2/8 =22.345 watt amplifier rated into 8 ohms.

Input sensitivity is just what input you need to get to the advertised or “rated” output.

The potentiometer is just going to be a variable going from 100% to 0%
Regards.

I just ran into a video where John Siau, of Benchmark Media Systrems, performs several demonstrations pursuant to amplifier gain and its effect in its performance (setting proper system gain for optimized audio performance).

 
I want to power a pair of polk r200 speakers.

Any reason I shouldn't get the vibelink+wiim pro for half the cost of the yamaha as801? Is there some advantage the as801 would offer?
 
I want to power a pair of polk r200 speakers.

Any reason I shouldn't get the vibelink+wiim pro for half the cost of the yamaha as801? Is there some advantage the as801 would offer?
Well, that depends on what you value more...

The VibeLink will pair well with the WiiM Pro, and provide a very modern ESS 9039Q2M DAC and "kinda-almost" 100 Watts. And one Analog and one extra Digital Inputs.

The A-S801 will also pair well with the WiiM Pro, and provide a well implemented older ESS 9010K2M DAC and "more than" 100 Watts. And 3 Analog one extra Digital Inputs and a USB Input that runs real DSD through that ESS DAC and a Loudness Control and a Remote with Device Switching and Volume Control. But no App.
 
Do people think this will be powerful enough for a pair of Monitor Audio Studio 20 SE? Going to buy a pair I think
That depends on your listening distance, the typical sound pressure level (SPL) you prefer, and the kind of music you usually listen to.

There could be some limitations in bass output.

At 80 Hz, the speaker's impedance rises to 16 ohms, which means the Vibelink is likely delivering less than 80 watts. -Is that enough power in your case?

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I want to power a pair of polk r200 speakers.

Any reason I shouldn't get the vibelink+wiim pro for half the cost of the yamaha as801? Is there some advantage the as801 would offer?

That really depends on what you're looking for. Do you need the added flexibility in terms of connectivity that the Yamaha A-S801 provides?

The Yamaha delivers significantly more power into low-impedance and demanding speakers compared to the Vibelink. It’s a well-established, proven design with a track record of reliability that stretches back decades through similar models.

From a subjective standpoint, it exudes a sense of quality and stability that the Vibelink doesn't match. The tactile experience -buttons, knobs, overall build -feels much more refined on the Yamaha.

Also, don’t forget: connecting a Wiim Pro to the Yamaha is just as straightforward as connecting it to the Vibelink.
 
I want to power a pair of polk r200 speakers.

Any reason I shouldn't get the vibelink+wiim pro for half the cost of the yamaha as801? Is there some advantage the as801 would offer?
That's the trouble with Cross-Posting: You have to manage the responses to all your threads. :)

@staticV3 gave the relevant answer regarding power in your other thread (and you noticed it):


The differences is absolutely meaningless in your use case.

At 80 Hz, the speaker's impedance rises to 16 ohms, which means the Vibelink is likely delivering less than 80 watts. -Is that enough power in your case?
According to Erin's measurements it's rather 24 ohms, but why should he worry too much? Power output at the resonance is never really an issue. It's a resonance after all, even if a controlled one.

At 80 Hz (2.83 V / 1 m) a single R200 will put out ~83 dB (anechoic, in room will be higher). That's equivalent of 0.33 watts. The amp might not provide the voltage to put out lots of power. But it doesn't have to. When outputting 80 W at 80 Hz into this speaker (+24 dB) I'm sure the chain is already limited by other factors (like distortion, compression and possibly physical limits of the woofer).

That low EPDR of ~2 ohms around 115 Hz looks like more of a potential issue for me, but according to Amir's measurements the Vibelink Amp should deal with it easily.
 
According to Erin's measurements it's rather 24 ohms, but why should he worry too much? Power output at the resonance is never really an issue. It's a resonance after all, even if a controlled one.
That's true, and I apologize for the oversight on my part. It doesn't actually matter at the resonance point. I stand corrected.

That low EPDR of ~2 ohms around 115 Hz looks like more of a potential issue for me, but according to Amir's measurements the Vibelink Amp should deal with it easily.
Yes, it appears to be capable of delivering 148 W dynamically with a 2-ohm resistive load. However, the uncertainty lies in how much it would output with both channels driven, as the power test was conducted with only one channel active.

Regardless, the Yamaha will deliver significantly more power than the Vibelink, though it might not be necessary for the OP's use case.
 
The first 1-3 watts is everything, where 95% of listening happens. (probably, I think, IMHO, YMMV, don't quote me)

At least whenever I've measured it in my rooms, I'm always under 1 watt for typical listening. Unless its disco night with the old lady, then all bets are off.
 
don't these measurements show 73 watts at 8 ohms, rather than the claimed 100 watts at 8 ohms? why the large discrepancy?
 
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