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WiiM Ultra Streamer Preamp Review

Rate this streamer/DAC/Preamp:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 7 1.3%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 47 8.8%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 200 37.5%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 280 52.4%

  • Total voters
    534
For that big a budget for power amp I'd first audition the Wiim Amp Ultra see how you go.
 
For second system Iam considering NAD 298 1)wiim pro plus analog output > Nad 298 or 2) use wiim pro plus analog output> fosi p4 pre amp > nad 298 . Will this work ? Hope the nad 298 does not make the sound too warm. I can't audition nad 298 before buying.I infer from this thread wiim ultra analog output is driving nad 298.Currenly using wharfedale super dentons with audiolab 9000A and wiim pro plus.

Why would it make the sound "too warm"? Nad C298 is a Purifi Eigentak based amp, it doesn't sound like anything, it is not an effect pedal.
 
Why would it make the sound "too warm"? Nad C298 is a Purifi Eigentak based amp, it doesn't sound like anything, it is not an effect pedal.
I have used nad c316,c375 before which had a warm signature .I was assuming c298 purifi eigentak may follow similar signature and end up bumping the mid/low on the super dentons
 
By the way, I am not sure if I shared this little bit of integration I did with the WiiM Ultra on ASR before but for a user over on the WiiM Forum, I provided a detailed information about how to use the "devicePEQ" tool I developed to push headphone PEQ filters from various online measurement databases to any WiiM product connected on your home network (including obviously the WiiM Ultra).

The example in that post below uses @crinacle https://graph.hangout.audio So, If automatically loading / pushing PEQ filters to a WiiM Device is something you might want then maybe check out this post:

 
By the way, I am not sure if I shared this little bit of integration I did with the WiiM Ultra on ASR before but for a user over on the WiiM Forum, I provided a detailed information about how to use the "devicePEQ" tool I developed to push headphone PEQ filters from various online measurement databases to any WiiM product connected on your home network (including obviously the WiiM Ultra).

The example in that post below uses @crinacle https://graph.hangout.audio So, If automatically loading / pushing PEQ filters to a WiiM Device is something you might want then maybe check out this post:

That's great. Is there an easy way of getting it to push eq files created in rew? You can export the eq as text files from rew, if they could be imported to your app.
 
That's great. Is there an easy way of getting it to push eq files created in rew? You can export the eq as text files from rew, if they could be imported to your app.
Well the hangout.audio and other squig.link websites with the tool use a standard PEQ filter .txt format - I think within REW this is similar to (but slightly different than) the "Generic" "Generic" Equalizer format e.g.

Filter 1: ON PK Fc 2677 Hz Gain -9.8 dB Q 1.67
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 3390 Hz Gain -5.7 dB Q 2.47
Filter 3: ON PK Fc 5801 Hz Gain -7.9 dB Q 3.54
Filter 4: ON PK Fc 9930 Hz Gain 4.2 dB Q 2.09
Filter 5: ON PK Fc 11904 Hz Gain 6.0 dB Q 3.00
Filter 6: ON PK Fc 12722 Hz Gain -15.7 dB Q 3.00
Filter 7: ON PK Fc 14031 Hz Gain 9.0 dB Q 1.00

Mostly if you add a Preamp section like this to the exported .txt file:

Preamp: -6.0 dB

You will get the format correct - but I haven't tried this.
 
Hey guys.

I have the Ultra, and sounds great generally.

I'm using a Blu-ray player as a CD transport via TOSLINK into the Ultra. My Blu-ray also has HDMI and coax out.

Besides TOSLINK In, the Ultra also has HDMI ARC, and USB. (Obviously, I don't want to use analog in from the Blu-ray).

Is there a way to get better fidelity than TOSLINK into the Ultra, using those other input options?

Can the Blu-ray's HDMI convert into HDMI ARC somehow? Or can the Blu-ray's coax convert into a USB or HDMI signal?

Failing all that, is there a cheap CD transport option that can deliver higher then toslink fidelity into the Ultra somehow?

Thanks!
 
What makes you think the TOSLINK connection is not delivering the digital signal properly?

There is no USB host input to the Wiim - that is for MiniDLNA reading files off storage, e.g. a HDD or USB stick

A Coax or USB to TOSLINK DDC adapter is often used to overcome Wiim not supporting those directly, minimise redundant ADC/DAC conversions.

If the TOSLINK really does need replacing, then IMO go analog, either direct from a good CD player, or via a good external DAC, and/or pre-amp+DAC with source switching if you want extra flexibility
 
FYI the Wiim Ultra DAC is considered pretty darn good, so I would think its jitter rejection circuitry and internal clocking are up to the task as far as any audible issues are concerned.

Of course perhaps other members may have evidence that this is not the case, I'm just saying don't ASSume the TOSLINK input is inherently lower SQ.
 
TOSLINK is completely transparent for stereo, there's no reason to go chasing your tail looking for "higher fidelity". That said, if your TV has HDMI ARC you may as well use that to get audio from you Blu-ray player to the Wiim.
 
FYI the Wiim Ultra DAC is considered pretty darn good, so I would think its jitter rejection circuitry and internal clocking are up to the task as far as any audible issues are concerned.

Of course perhaps other members may have evidence that this is not the case, I'm just saying don't ASSume the TOSLINK input is inherently lower SQ.
The review on page 1 shows their isn't a problem with toslink, see the jitter measurement.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I watch and read popular opinion how toslink is basically at the bottom of the food chain compared with almost all other inputs.
Some users say shifting to coax opens the soundstage, transparency, etc, etc.

I don't know this to be true, or not. Physically, there appears to be more fidelity, but will I notice?

My CD collection is all over the place: some are bright and transparent, others are muddy sounding, and as illogical as it is, its when I listen to those, is when I feel the itch to expirement with an different input. Maybe snake oil has me sliding down the audio slippery slope to giving away cash.

Any thought on toslink cables? Make a difference? Plastic v glass?
 
Thanks for the replies.

I watch and read popular opinion how toslink is basically at the bottom of the food chain compared with almost all other inputs.
Some users say shifting to coax opens the soundstage, transparency, etc, etc.

I don't know this to be true, or not. Physically, there appears to be more fidelity, but will I notice?

My CD collection is all over the place: some are bright and transparent, others are muddy sounding, and as illogical as it is, its when I listen to those, is when I feel the itch to expirement with an different input. Maybe snake oil has me sliding down the audio slippery slope to giving away cash.

Any thought on toslink cables? Make a difference? Plastic v glass?
You already have your answer. Invest in better speakers
 
I watch and read popular opinion how toslink is basically at the bottom of the food chain compared with almost all other inputs.
Some users say shifting to coax opens the soundstage, transparency, etc, etc.
A S/PDIF stream is simply a series of numbers, there's no way to make a 1 sound like some theoretical, superior 1.1 with an interconnect. If there was something wrong with the cable you'd notice, digital audio errors are generally not subtle.
I don't know this to be true, or not. Physically, there appears to be more fidelity, but will I notice?

My CD collection is all over the place: some are bright and transparent, others are muddy sounding, and as illogical as it is, its when I listen to those, is when I feel the itch to expirement with an different input. Maybe snake oil has me sliding down the audio slippery slope to giving away cash.
As you've discovered one of the biggest variables in audio is the choices made during the production of the source material. You should be glad you have a system capable of resolving the differences but more gear (particularly cables) can't make a bad recording sound better. The good news is the Wiim you already own has a pretty powerful DSP engine inside. An eq profile you use for some recordings might tame some of its worse effects depending on what's wrong with it but some sins (mostly "brick wall" dynamic compression) are unrecoverable. That said I have cassette rips of old DJ mixes and while they sound bad I still listen to them because it's the best available version of the material.
 
Just picked up a new Ultra from Amazon’s Black Friday sale for $263 USD. I’ll swap it for the Pro Plus I’ve been using in my living room- and use the Pro Plus in my little kitchen audio setup. Saved about $65 on the regular price of the Ultra.
 
Just picked up a new Ultra from Amazon’s Black Friday sale for $263 USD. I’ll swap it for the Pro Plus I’ve been using in my living room- and use the Pro Plus in my little kitchen audio setup. Saved about $65 on the regular price of the Ultra.
I did too at that price. I love seeing the album cover from the couch. A little pizazz for the room.
 
Hey ya’ll I just bought a pair of JBL 4305p speakers which I will be hooking up to my WiiM Ultra. Am I correct in thinking that if I use the analog inputs I will be using the Ultra’s DAC and if I use optical, I will be using the internal DAC of the JBL’s?

My enthusiasm has been slightly dented since realising that the JBL’s don’t have a trigger switch. I’m sure I’ll get over it.
 
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