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Wiim ultra + Audiophonics mpa-s250ncx

Nc26

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May 6, 2026
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Hello,
I'm going to replace my Technics SU8077 amplifier with an Audiophonics MPA-S250NCX.
The fact that the manufacturer is only a few hours away is reassuring.

Is there a review of this amplifier since its update (...X)?
What do you think of using it with Wiim Ultra via RCA?

My speakers are Davis Acoustics Ariane 7, and a Moscade Titan 11.5 subwoofer controlled by the Wiim Ultra. The crossover frequency is set at 60Hz.

I'm wondering if the improvement will be significant.

Have a good day everyone.
 
Unless you're hearing distortion/clipping from your current Amp, you should not expect an audible difference with the new Amp.

That being said, a perceived improvement is still likely simply due to expectation/confirmation bias.
 
I don't particularly hear any distortion at normal listening volume. But the potentiometers are starting to show their age... one of the voices sometimes cuts out and the volume gets quite loud. Which doesn't seem like a good sign.
To be honest, I expected to hear a difference between two amplifiers with such a significant age gap.
 
A 0.5 second spray of Servisol Super 10, or similar, into the pots will save a ton of money.
 
I don't particularly hear any distortion at normal listening volume. But the potentiometers are starting to show their age... one of the voices sometimes cuts out and the volume gets quite loud. Which doesn't seem like a good sign.
To be honest, I expected to hear a difference between two amplifiers with such a significant age gap.
I think the combination Hypex NCx and WiiM Ultra is very good.

Failing potis would be the last call for me, but it can be fixed.
 
Hello,
I'm going to replace my Technics SU8077 amplifier with an Audiophonics MPA-S250NCX.
The fact that the manufacturer is only a few hours away is reassuring.

Is there a review of this amplifier since its update (...X)?
What do you think of using it with Wiim Ultra via RCA?

My speakers are Davis Acoustics Ariane 7, and a Moscade Titan 11.5 subwoofer controlled by the Wiim Ultra. The crossover frequency is set at 60Hz.

I'm wondering if the improvement will be significant.

Have a good day everyone.

Imo this would be a side grade, not an upgrade. If the 7's have a frequency response similar to the 5's you're better of changing speakers. For eq to work we need a frequency response that is even over all frequencies and similar at off axis position. In case of the 5's that's not what I see unfortunately:

Screenshot_20260521_201752_Opera.jpg



Suppose we do have an even frequency response, then using a sub and eq would be a good idea to get a great result.

(I'm not sure a more powerfull amp could give you a noticeable upgrade, maybe if the speakers are hard to drive you will. But it would be marginal at best ime.
Ironically an avr with great usability to measure and dial in eq will make a very noticeable difference ime. As will using one or more subs with this avr. )
 
Two separate issues.

If you need or want to replace your current aging amp, restore performance to what it was when working properly, then what you propose will be "more than fine".

If you are looking for maximum value for money in UPGRADING your overall system, better off just repairing the amp and spending your money on DSP for EQ and room compensation, if you're willing to go down a big rabbit hole

and/or of course better speakers, which always makes a huge difference.
 
As an alternative, I would get a Wiim amp ultra. It measures better in power and channel seperation; it has the same eq features as the wiim ultra you're already familiar with, and the same price as they amp you suggested in your first post.

'WiiM Amp Ultra Streaming Amplifier Review' https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...m-amp-ultra-streaming-amplifier-review.68501/

You could sell your amp and the streamer to finance it. Use it as a great learning platform because it is so clean, powerfull and versatile (hdmi in, sub out, eq, room correction).
 
Yes WAU is fantastic, so long as you KNOW 100% sure you will be fine with "what it is". like in a kitchen or maybe a garage, never going to want to expand

Because as I noted just like Wiim Ultra only ONE FR output can be active at a time.

If you want to output stereo as pre-amp (USB only!) then you CANNOT power speakers.

Also, no HP jack, and no phono input.

IMO for future proofing Ultra + separate power amp is a much more sensible investment.
 
Looks like multiple solutions are proposed because we miss information regarding the question.

For example:

What inputs are required ?

What is the aim of the change? An obviously noticeable upgrade in the total system or just a replacement with more power ?

It depends on what you want achieve, where you need to make the change.
 
Les Davis Arianes 7 sont un peu plus régulières d'après cr que j'ai trouvé et mesurer.
L'amplificateur semble ne plus avoir le courant qu'il avait quand je l'ai acheté d'occasion il y a 10 ans. Ça s'étouffe sur les morceaux complexe comme Linkin Park ou Talisk...
J'attends la remise en stock du Audiophonics mpa-s250ncx.

Sûrement trop de watts, mais assez de courant et de qualité.
 
Unless you're hearing distortion/clipping from your current Amp, you should not expect an audible difference with the new Amp.

That being said, a perceived improvement is still likely simply due to expectation/confirmation bias.
It could make a big difference! I upgraded from a Rotel RB-06 to a DIY NCx252MP based amplifier recently. Without exaggeration: it sounded as if a tin blanket was lifted off my speakers. Just a tad more clarity and air. It was the same effect when I tried the Topping Mini 300 first.
 
Finaly it will be AP300-S250NCX instant of MPA-S250NCX.
I hope it will be a good change because my actual Technics has issues now with one chanel. Will go in the garage :)
 
Finaly it will be AP300-S250NCX instant of MPA-S250NCX.
I hope it will be a good change because my actual Technics has issues now with one chanel. Will go in the garage :)
It's an amplifier that works and has no sound at all, and lots of power. Which is really the best compliment. You'll enjoy!
 
It could make a big difference! I upgraded from a Rotel RB-06 to a DIY NCx252MP based amplifier recently. Without exaggeration: it sounded as if a tin blanket was lifted off my speakers. Just a tad more clarity and air. It was the same effect when I tried the Topping Mini 300 first.
That Rotel is not a bad or very old amp. It's just class AB vs. the others being class D. You can expect the Hypex and Topping not to color the sound in any way, but the Rotel might do that. To hear to what that amounts, you would have to set up a proper comparison. Meanwhile don't be fooled by volume differences or other changes.
 
Finally received the amplifier after it was unavailable from Audiophonics. When I unpacked it, I was expecting something bigger, but it's actually quite discreet, which is a good thing. It's well-built. Understated yet effective. After a few hours of listening to get used to it, the sound does seem flatter at first. But you get used to it quickly. This is quite logical; everything is faster than with a "vintage" amplifier... At higher volumes (around 50W), with floorstanding speakers that have a sensitivity of 93dB, everything is crystal clear. In short, in my opinion, it's very good equipment. The only slightly annoying thing is the rather bright white light.
 

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I like the Audiophonics case, but I love the adjustable LED on my Apollon case. ;)

Things I did in the past: a sticker over it - Only good if you don't actually need the button. Get a black edding for dvd/cd labeling and dim it by hand art. Get some fingernail paint, maybe a nice azure blue, and tune it by hand art. Well, or just put something in front of it.
 
I like the Audiophonics case, but I love the adjustable LED on my Apollon case. ;)

Things I did in the past: a sticker over it - Only good if you don't actually need the button. Get a black edding for dvd/cd labeling and dim it by hand art. Get some fingernail paint, maybe a nice azure blue, and tune it by hand art. Well, or just put something in front of it.
Put a resistor in the wiring to the LED. Or a switch that is in a drilled hole at the rear.
 
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