There's actually no indication of the OP using boost mode. Max. Gain can be positive even in non-boost mode.
@kemmler3D, personally I think that +10 dB is pretty much OK in most situations. It's the absolute maximum boost RoomFit could apply, but usually it simply won't, especially when using the Moving Microphone Method, which I also recommend. If you end up with one of the peak filters at or close to +10 dB this is probably a sound indicator for some other problem.
Not yet. WiiM have announced to be working on it but you never know in which order they release new features. This might come in 2 years or next week or even never.

RoomFit is intended to make any external measuring or calibration software redundant, in the first place. Having said that, you can store multiple RoomFit profiles and edit each of them manually after they have been created. This way you could manually enter correction values calculated by e.g. REW, but it's not necessary to do that. Using a quality mic like the UMIK-1 or UMIK-2 with RoomFit (importing the appropriate calibration files) has much more influence on the result than the RoomFit vs. REW algorithm. 10 bands of PEQ per channel is not really limited by my definition.
No, that shouldn't be necessary. I have successfully imported the calibration files for multiple mics, including the 90° calibration. The mic must be connected when importing the cal file. Also, there has been an issue at one point in time with loading calibration files from network resources. This should have been fixed, but for the sake of testing make sure to copy the file to your local device first.
@tkdj123, there's been a lot of good advice in this thread, in particular bypassing the crossover built into your sub and using WiiM's bass management, including the sync tool. This is mandatory in my book. But before you try out any further suggestions ...
... what exactly are you unsatisfied with?
If you tell us what you actually think is missing and post the full RoomFit settings (not just the basics from the above screenshot) we'll have a much clearer picture of what might be going wrong.
Please note that the correction curve you posted tells pretty much nothing about if there is an issue or not. You need to take screenshots of the actual measurement, showing the in-room raw data and the corrected frequency response. We can work our way from there. Changing the target curve from Auto to B&K or Harmann might help or it might just not. We also need the subwoofer setup settings from the WiiM Home app.
But as I said, the most important hint is what does not sound right for you in this setup.