WiiM Amp Ultra Streaming Amplifier

[Miker 1102]

The high latency was not something I anticipated before buying this. Luckily my Fire TV stick has an A/V sync tool. But I really wish they could add a lower latency “game mode” or something in a firmware update.

anyone know the latency of other DSP/room corrections? Surely most are well under 100ms.. is this a hardware limitation for WiiM? I hope they can improve it in software

The latency seem like a weird oversight with this brand that has so much spot on, right? Great product.

 

[Miker 1102]

Hey I'm really sorry because I both took a nasty fall on my shoulder and I'm feverish at the date time. All of my remaining attention went to my kids for the last two weeks. But I do feel like everyone should at least get the chance to experiment with Room EQ and build on my findings.

The biggest "problem" I found with Wiim's Room EQ is that it just does an Auto EQ from the measured response to a target. The correction is being done by 10 PEQ filters, no time alignment or attempts at reducing standing waves. BUT as soon as you made an auto-correction profile, you can edit all of the 10 bands, allowing you to virtually build your own Room Correction EQ.

So step 1 would be to make a couple of auto correction's and save them. At this point, decide if you want to make corrections for each channel separately or for both channels at the same time. Because my focus was finding room modes, I choose both channels at the same time, but I want to experiment with individual channels in the future.

Step 2, connect a mic to a laptop and connect the laptop to the Wiim streamer. Install REW on the laptop, import the measurement file for your microphone and set the volume to your preferred reference level. If you only use music, output a -12dB signal and increase the volume to 85dB, if you also watch movies, output a -20dB signal and increase the volume to 85dB.

Step 3 is to do measurements in REW. Position the mic in several different locations of the room for each measurement. Average the measurements.

Step 4, fill in your room dimensions in REW.

Step 5, open the EQ window and in the right sidebar, scroll all the way down to room modes. Pay attention to the ones with a long time or a loudness over 85dB. Display the theoretical room modes based on your dimensions and you should be able to find matches. First order room modes and the ones below 150Hz are the most important to correct.

Step 6 create modal EQ filters using the data in the detected room modes. Using the waterfall graph, lower the peak so it loses energy just as fast as other frequencies and correct the frequency if you feel that it's necessary. Once ready, the modal filters can be changed to peak filters and anything with a Q over 24 can be set to 24.

Step 7, after you have spend your 10 EQ bands on the worst modal frequencies, create a measurement of the predicted frequency response. In the main window, set the smoothing to psychoacoustic.

Step 8, go back to EQ but now create an in-room target. (I made straight downward slope that matches the predicted measurement the best) Make sure the low frequency roll-off matches your measurement, detect reference level based on measurement and do an auto EQ.

Step 9, if you're satisfied with the results, overwrite a Room EQ filter in the Wiim app with the filter settings from step 6. Make a PEQ preset in WiiM with the filter settings from step 8.

Bonus step: make a new target. For quite listening, I made a loudness target. First I generated a flat target with a bass shelf and a treble shelf (using the settings that Yamaha uses on their Auto EQ), and then I applied that to the same slope. You only have to make a new PEQ preset for a new target.

Using this method, the Room EQ filters are always enabled and actually adress room modes and you can change the target frequency response with EQ presets. Having used other Room Correction systems before, you really get the best spacial results when your speakers are time-aligned and phase corrected. But at least cutting out those boomy, bloaty standing waves makes everything sound clear and fast.

The ten peq bands are helpful. It also time aligns your sub. Most of us have good speakers so I usually only correct first reflections and curtain it around 300hz. It really gives my listening piston a clear sound and good solid bass. I have liked the auto correct combined with the sun timing. I mean I am used to room correction on my avr not from this 400 thing. It sounds so tight. My Gosh I played a whole Iron maiden album for about 45 minutes jiat got lost. Great product.

 

[Miker 1102]

Hence why I keep hammering the point about DIRAC Live being in an entire different league compared to RoomFit.

I didnt expect much. It does have 10 peq filters and fixed thr sub delay. Mine sounds nice. Not Dirac curve nicr but 85 percent of that for a lot less than 85 percent the cost.

 

[Geertidow]

Yes. I agree.

Agree.

 

[danity_project]

I bought this a couple months ago, and it really exceeded my expectations, I'm really happy with the purchase!

 

[ryanosaur]

I feel late to this party. My question may have already been answered and it's likely I missed it in trying to catch up with 22 pages. Please forgive if repeated...

This keeps coming up for me in a search for a casual unit to run 2-ch TV audio through as well as streaming Music. This is not going to be used as a primary system, and no critical listening will take place through this device. I am truly talking about casual parlor entertainment. (Likewise, I am not trying to use this for karaoke or music performance/production.)

Is TV Audio through HDMI or Toslink severely effected by the latency that seems to dominate the conversation?

Is there any other device that would be more friendly to a small casual setup where many Apple products reside? Or can I simply stream over BT and not have to worry about Airplay?

(Denon S670H seems like a decent option, but not great. Likewise the Yamy RX V6A... decent but not great.)

Primary need, as described above, is 2.1 audio for casual TV and Music enjoyment.

Thanks for any input!

 

[Prowler_88]

I feel late to this party. My question may have already been answered and it's likely I missed it in trying to catch up with 22 pages. Please forgive if repeated...

This keeps coming up for me in a search for a casual unit to run 2-ch TV audio through as well as streaming Music. This is not going to be used as a primary system, and no critical listening will take place through this device. I am truly talking about casual parlor entertainment. (Likewise, I am not trying to use this for karaoke or music performance/production.)

Is TV Audio through HDMI or Toslink severely effected by the latency that seems to dominate the conversation?

Is there any other device that would be more friendly to a small casual setup where many Apple products reside? Or can I simply stream over BT and not have to worry about Airplay?

(Denon S670H seems like a decent option, but not great. Likewise the Yamy RX V6A... decent but not great.)

Primary need, as described above, is 2.1 audio for casual TV and Music enjoyment.

Thanks for any input!

I have no sync issues with mine paired with my TV (Panasonic OLED). All works fine across the various streaming platforms and I haven’t had to make any adjustments.

 

[Mort]

TV Audio through HDMI or Toslink severely effected by the latency that seems to dominate the conversation?

Not me. Reported problems are usually HDMI, not toslink . But toslink will require a second remote.

If you really love airplay buy a mini or pro and attach. It seems stupid but it's not much money and solves the problem.

 

[Good Vibes]

Is TV Audio through HDMI or Toslink severely effected by the latency that seems to dominate the conversation?

Hi, I use HDMI for TV and when I use the ‘synch audio’ function, I have no latency issues.

I don’t see why you wouldn’t enjoy it for any form of listening including critical. It sounds fantastic to my ears. Occasionally, I experience the odd glitch but issues are remedied fairly quickly with updates. I absolutely love my WiiM Ultra, it’s an essential part of my music/tv enjoyment. I think it will be fantastic for your needs.

 

[ryanosaur]

I don’t see why you wouldn’t enjoy it for any form of listening including critical.

I merely wanted to leave the door open to other suggestions. Besides, my Phil 3s are in a different room where I am am surrounded by 7 Raal Tweets.

By all accounts, this is almost a "perfect" piece of equipment (if such a thing could ever be said), at least on paper.

The latency conversation started getting me concerned, but seems like it's not really an issue unless one is pushing the envelope in usage, which I will not be doing.

 

[ryanosaur]

Not me. Reported problems are usually HDMI, not toslink . But toslink will require a second remote.

If you really love airplay buy a mini or pro and attach. It seems stupid but it's not much money and solves the problem.

Interesting... So Mini to Amp Ultra via USB? Or Toslink?

But simple connection over BT works, too, at no added cost?

 

[Mort]

Interesting... So Mini to Amp Ultra via USB? Or Toslink?

But simple connection over BT works, too, at no added cost?

Nor sure about the BT option at all. I just know the bulletproof way is to add a pro or mini to the toslink/coax in.

 

[oldloder]

Ryanosaur ...

For half the price more casual and smaller, granted with a lack of user reviews, the recently reviewed and recommended here O-Noorus D3 Pro ... if you want AirPlay add a Wiim Mini.

 

[ryanosaur]

Ryanosaur ...

For half the price more casual and smaller, granted with a lack of user reviews, the recently reviewed and recommended here O-Noorus D3 Pro ... if you want AirPlay add a Wiim Mini.

Thanks for the tip... Getting a little "rough around the edges" vibe on that.

Something tells me we are maybe only a year out on getting something like the Wiim Amp Ultra that will do 5.1 proper with full AVR capability at this ~$500 point. This Amp Ultra is soooo close! But I think I'm sold. I don't really want an AVR proper, and this looks to be hitting the other marks close enough for a game of horseshoes.

Thanks to all who've chimed in!!!

 

[glorei]

I wish everyone a nice day. I have just one question. If I’ve posted in the wrong thread, I apologize and would appreciate it if it could be moved to the correct category. I have an old Yamaha VX 359 and B&W 603 S2, a Wiim Mini, and a Topping DX3 Pro Plus. I would like to do an "upgrade" to an all-in-one solution. Will the Wiim Amp Ultra be able to properly drive these "hungry" speakers, or is it a step backward? Thank you for the information.

 

[Prowler_88]

I wish everyone a nice day. I have just one question. If I’ve posted in the wrong thread, I apologize and would appreciate it if it could be moved to the correct category. I have an old Yamaha VX 359 and B&W 603 S2, a Wiim Mini, and a Topping DX3 Pro Plus. I would like to do an "upgrade" to an all-in-one solution. Will the Wiim Amp Ultra be able to properly drive these "hungry" speakers, or is it a step backward? Thank you for the information.

The B&W 603 S2 have a sensitivity of 88.5dB so they're not that hard to drive. The Wiim and Yamaha have similar power ratings, although we have no actual meaurements of the Yamaha to go by, so I'd suggest you'd be fine.

 

[Ropeburn]

I wish everyone a nice day. I have just one question. If I’ve posted in the wrong thread, I apologize and would appreciate it if it could be moved to the correct category. I have an old Yamaha VX 359 and B&W 603 S2, a Wiim Mini, and a Topping DX3 Pro Plus. I would like to do an "upgrade" to an all-in-one solution. Will the Wiim Amp Ultra be able to properly drive these "hungry" speakers, or is it a step backward? Thank you for the information.

Those are perfectly average sensitive 4-Ohm speakers with a minimum of 3 Ohm. The perfect match is a beefy 2x200W something amplifier that's stable down to 3 Ohm... which the Amp Ultra delivers. Even B&W states "20 - 200W amplifier recommended". Perfectly fine even for the highest volumes these speakers can do. Works perfectly!

 

[90sNintendoKid]

I agree with some of the comments here, I consider the Wiim products to be excellent streamers for music and I don't use them for TV or for connecting my speakers because I can't independently delay the left and right speakers not adjust the sub delay properly.

For multiple subwoofers I've got to use a something like a Minidsp 2x4 HD.

Nowadays I use Wiim devices for music into an AV Receiver.

 

[glorei]

Thank you all for the replies. There’s still one more option: to buy the WiiM Ultra and keep the old receiver. Anyway, in the coming years I’d like to get B&W 803s and pair them with something like a Marantz PM12 or something similar from the used market. But that’s music of the future.


At the moment I’m in a state where I don’t even feel like playing music, because by the time I turn the whole chain on, I’ve already lost the desire to listen


So I’ll probably go with the WiiM Amp Ultra route.

 

[Wade_Garrett]

My old Carver AVR-100 started to develop distortion and unbalanced stereo volume. I work as a test engineer and was quite pleased to find this website as I was doing research on what modern choice to go for.

I am in an apartment and use Pioneer HPM100's as my speakers.

I received the wiim amp ultra today and hooked it all up, cleaning my setup along the way. Hooked to my tv with the ARC HDMI. Ran the room calibration with my phone, saved it, and started playing music.

I quickly could hear more detail in the high end, and a clearer and more focused low end, compared to my old Carver.

Prior to this purchase I was debating the Marantz 70s, the Yamaha A-S801, and a few others. The Wiim tested really well here and I felt it to be low risk to buy and try. Very happy with my purchase here. I know other amps may sound marginally better, but from where I was to what I now hear, it was well worth the money.

App setup was fast and controls are good. The room eq program made some more extreme decisions than I would, but when turning it on and off while listening I did prefer it on.

Thanks for the testing, happy listening.