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WiiM Amp Ultra Streaming Amplifier Review

Rate this streaming amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 4 1.2%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 9 2.7%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 71 21.5%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 247 74.6%

  • Total voters
    331
It's not so much about your speakers being at danger due to such peaks directly, but:
a) this can introduce digital clipping
b) compensating for dips is usually not useful at all

Are you using the iOS version of the WiiM Home App on your MacBook? Is this version up to date?

I strongly recommend to enable the non-boost mode in the RoomFit settings and to use the multiple microphone method.
Yes I am and it is, downloaded it last night. My older iPhone 12 doesn't have the USB C, so this was a quick workaround. If I use non boost will it not make the bass too weak? I have a big peak at around 80hz so if I don't boost I fear the whole low end collapses.
 
It's not so much about your speakers being at danger due to such peaks directly, but:
a) this can introduce digital clipping
b) compensating for dips is usually not useful at all

Are you using the iOS version of the WiiM Home App on your MacBook? Is this version up to date?

I strongly recommend to enable the non-boost mode in the RoomFit settings and to use the multiple microphone method.
So I tried the non-boost mode with multiple measurements and individual channel and now it boost to 3db still and some peaks have a lower minus boost so to speak. Am I doing it correctly or should it not boost at all?
 
A better idea is the make room fit do it’s thing possibly using the moving mike method and no boost ( also imo limit room fit to xx-300 Hz , xx= something reasonable with respect to speakers and subs actual bass capacity and your room ).

After room fit you can still use the normal EQ to lift the bass a little bit , make an LS with low Q=0.5 experiment with a frequency in the 200-300 Hz and 1-3 dB gain for example.

After room compensating bass can be tight and lean , to lean , so if you don’t listen very loud some lift of the whole bass range can be needed subjectively to taste.

IME it’s better to make any room DSP system really push down the resonances and if the result are to thin just lift the whole bass range a smidge to taste.

Also limit the max volume so that you don’t risk clipping. If any EQ is positive you should back down the volume limit .

Yes to much boost can be demanding on you system 3dB twice the power 10dB 10 times more power. And if you boost a dip , in theory if the dip aka null is perfect nothing would happen as this null is a cancellation so it would just cancel more relative to your listening position..
But outside of your measured position it could be to much bass so its sound horrible for ore relaxing listening when you move around.
Shaving of resonances should be beneficial for most listeners? I think resonances is usually the cause of boomy bass aka some notes lingering to long and kick drums getting soft and smeared etc ?
 
So I tried the non-boost mode with multiple measurements and individual channel and now it boost to 3db still and some peaks have a lower minus boost so to speak. Am I doing it correctly or should it not boost at all?
The boost is only for individual filters. The total correction will never be above 0 dB. Consequently, there's no danger of digital clipping and even less danger for your speakers.

The target function can make quite a difference regarding the bass output. Flat is usually not preferable. Harman is OK in most instances, B&K if you prefer more bass. There might be cases where no-boost mode cannot reach the target function for both channels, but usually it's the best approach.

I have no experience regarding how well the WiiM Home App will run RoomFit on a Mac. The system audio settings might or might not influence the results. But if the measurements look OK and you like the result, that's all.you need.
 
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The boost is only for individual filters. The total correction will never be above 0 dB. Consequently, there's no danger of digital clipping and even less danger for your speakers.

The target function can make quite a difference regarding the bass output. Flat is usually not preferable. Harman is OK in most instances, B&J If you prefer more bass. There might be cases where no-boost mode cannot reach the target function for both channels, but usually it's the best approach.

I have no experience regarding how well the WiiM Home App will run RoomFit on a Mac. The system audio settings might or might not influence the results. But if the measurements look OK and you like the result, that's all.you need.
Aah I see. Will use non boost then, was just surprised because the measurements were that much different.

I was hoping a lighting to USB C adapter would work but it doesn't. Will run it with an iPhone I can borrow from a friend soon to see what the differences are. For now the Macbook will have to do :-). It does give some different measurements compared to the microphone from the iPhone.

I now used non boost, stereo instead of individual channel, B&K, 1/12 octave, max gain 6DB, min gain -12DB, Max Q 10.0 and sounds decent. Will wait for next measurement when the Wiim Sub Pro arrives Saturday or next week. And ideally with an phono to measure on with the Dayton IMM6C.
 
I was hoping a lighting to USB C adapter would work but it doesn't. Will run it with an iPhone I can borrow from a friend soon to see what the differences are.
Most adapters don't cut it, but Apple's own Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter is actually known to work. Not exactly cheap, but you might be able to pick it up used.


It does give some different measurements compared to the microphone from the iPhone.
It should. :) And the result should be more accurate if you did import the Dayton Audio calibration file. This is crucial.

I now used non boost, stereo instead of individual channel, B&K, 1/12 octave, max gain 6DB, min gain -12DB, Max Q 10.0 and sounds decent.
With non-boost mode there's no longer a reason to restrict the maximum gain. Simply go full throttle here as well. As I said, the combined gain won't be >0 dB anyway.

Individual channel or stereo can be a difficult decision. Fundamentally, "individual channel" is more powerful and "correct". Depending on the actual interaction of speakers and room you might not get a satisfying match with the target curve in one channel (or impractical gain when not using no-boost mode). In these cases I found stereo to give the better overall result.

You should also try the new variable smoothing setting and see if it returns more pleasing results.
 
Most adapters don't cut it, but Apple's own Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter is actually known to work. Not exactly cheap, but you might be able to pick it up used.



It should. :) And the result should be more accurate if you did import the Dayton Audio calibration file. This is crucial.


With non-boost mode there's no longer a reason to restrict the maximum gain. Simply go full throttle here as well. As I said, the combined gain won't be >0 dB anyway.

Individual channel or stereo can be a difficult decision. Fundamentally, "individual channel" is more powerful and "correct". Depending on the actual interaction of speakers and room you might not get a satisfying match with the target curve in one channel (or impractical gain when not using no-boost mode). In these cases I found stereo to give the better overall result.

You should also try the new variable smoothing setting and see if it returns more pleasing results.
Thank you! I believe that Apple product isn't USB C, so it won't fit the Dayton. I've been looking for the official USB to Lightning but they only have it the other way around from what I could find at least. But I'm hopefully mistaken.

Okay, will put it at +12DB as well with non boost. I indeed had a bit of a weird result with individual channel with the right speaker, but more testing will be done.

What's the difference with variable smoothing? That's a new setting from last time I did it.
 
I've managed with an general USB-C adapter to my iPad . Newer apple products use USB-C

Then i mailed the calibration files for my UMIK to myself and saved the files room fit had no problem finding the files later .

Kudos to @harkpabst for such an in dept knowledge on room fit , thanks :)
 
Thank you! I believe that Apple product isn't USB C, so it won't fit the Dayton. I've been looking for the official USB to Lightning but they only have it the other way around from what I could find at least. But I'm hopefully mistaken.
Yes, it's USB-A (but USB 3), so you would still need yet another USB-A to USB-C adapter for the iMM-6C, indeed. But it's the only adapter known to work.

What's the difference with variable smoothing? That's a new setting from last time I did it.
Variable smoothing uses different smoothing factors for different frequency bands, which should make it most suitable for room correction. As far as we know it's implemented following the same guidelines as outlined in the REW manual for variable smoothing. It's important to know that smoothing is not just used to display the curves in a more pleasing fashion. The smoothed measurement is what the RoomFit algorithm works on. You don't want too broad smoothing (becaus RoomFit couldn't see the fine details then), but you also don't want too little smoothing (so RoomFit might pointlessly try to work e.g. on very narrow dips).

So far I was happy with 1/12 oct smoothing, but I think that the results from variable smoothing and MMM are the most convincing so far. It's relatively fast and easy to do.
 
Yes, it's USB-A (but USB 3), so you would still need yet another USB-A to USB-C adapter for the iMM-6C, indeed. But it's the only adapter known to work.


Variable smoothing uses different smoothing factors for different frequency bands, which should make it most suitable for room correction. As far as we know it's implemented following the same guidelines as outlined in the REW manual for variable smoothing. It's important to know that smoothing is not just used to display the curves in a more pleasing fashion. The smoothed measurement is what the RoomFit algorithm works on. You don't want too broad smoothing (becaus RoomFit couldn't see the fine details then), but you also don't want too little smoothing (so RoomFit might pointlessly try to work e.g. on very narrow dips).

So far I was happy with 1/12 oct smoothing, but I think that the results from variable smoothing and MMM are the most convincing so far. It's relatively fast and easy to do.
Cheers! Borrowed an iPad with USB C and received the Wiim Sub Pro, but I'm now even more lost haha. Seems I do Roomfit with the Sub and then the main speakers as well. I feel I'm doing something wrong as the bass output is lower now. Time to read the manual.
 
You got the baseline right then. ;)

Don't rely too much on the manual. You will want to fool around in the knowledge base:

Yes bit lost, I'm doing something wrong when setting it up but I asked on the Wiim forums don't want this thread to turn into a Sub Pro helpdesk haha. Appreciate all your help!
 
I've both Wiim Amp Ultra to pair it with my Dali Opticon 2. It was very bad combo. Amp Ultra made speakers sound really bad, the sound was washed out, no dynamics at all. I've contacted the seller and he agreed to test other units with my speaker ( in case mine was faulty). All gave the same results. We tried changing cables, all sort of things in Wiim software with no significant improvements. Both of us were very disappointed. After that we tried some 350$ Denon amp with Wiim Ultra as DAC and it sounded grate.
If I haven't heard my speakers before connecting to Amp Ultra I would have been really disappointed with them since I've been convinced that Wiim Amp Ultra is excellent device. Now I know better.
I've tried Wiim Amp Ultra with Monitor Audio Bronze and it sounded much better than with Opticon. That leads me to conclusion that device is load dependant contrary to specification.
 
I've both Wiim Amp Ultra to pair it with my Dali Opticon 2. It was very bad combo. Amp Ultra made speakers sound really bad, the sound was washed out, no dynamics at all. I've contacted the seller and he agreed to test other units with my speaker ( in case mine was faulty). All gave the same results. We tried changing cables, all sort of things in Wiim software with no significant improvements. Both of us were very disappointed. After that we tried some 350$ Denon amp with Wiim Ultra as DAC and it sounded grate.
If I haven't heard my speakers before connecting to Amp Ultra I would have been really disappointed with them since I've been convinced that Wiim Amp Ultra is excellent device. Now I know better.
I've tried Wiim Amp Ultra with Monitor Audio Bronze and it sounded much better than with Opticon. That leads me to conclusion that device is load dependant contrary to specification.
Erin's audio corner didn't find deviations either

Analogue in is not terrific though, optical should be used for best audio
 

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Erin's audio corner didn't find deviations either

Analogue in is not terrific though, optical should be used for best audio
I've seen it, waited for Amirs measurement also... but my experience is what I've wrote. And I'm not the only person that had same impressions: both guys working in shop had the same conclusion, my friend that borrowed me Monitor Audio Bronze too.
There is possibility that entire series is faulty but I highly doubt that.
I just wanted to share my experience so that people considering this product can be careful and test amp with their speakers first.
Kind regards.
 
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I just wanted to share my experience so that people considering this product can be careful and test amp with their speakers first.
If I had to bet whether your subjective impression or the testing is accurate, I know which way my money would go.
 
If I had to bet whether your subjective impression or the testing is accurate, I know which way my money would go.
Yes, sure, spend your money however you want. My comment/advice is for people that are reading this forum that do not want to go to details and are bit confused where to spend their money. That advice is: try Wiim Amp Ultra with your speakers first and then make decision.
 
Members I trust state they found the ADC conversion excellent SQ
Well, it's not CD quality using analogue in..

Like Amp pro both units should have more digital inputs
 

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Wow, maybe crossed wires then. Is that much worse than Wiim Ultra? (no Amp)
 
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