WiiM Amp Pro Streaming Stereo Amplifier Review

[gasolin75]

Depends on the market. In Europe, here's the deal:

• Wiim Amp Pro: €474
• Marantz Stereo 70s: €550
• Marantz M1: €883

Nett price. Competition is tough. In the US, the Wiim Amp could indeed have a better price/value ratio.

• Marantz Stereo 70s: is €690 in august 2025

https://www.amazon.de/Marantz-Stereo-70s-HDMI-Schwarz/dp/B0CJYK54Q8?th=1

 

[gasolin75]

The gain control,limit that makes it prevent playing as loud as other non limited TPA 3255 amps, can it be because of the limit from the psu or do to heat ?

No ventilation on the top, mabye they could have made small ventilation holes in the logo WIIM (or a limited edition light in the WIIM logo on top to indicate input/source or temps + a small on/off button for that)

Limited at 100% digital in = just choose 8 ohm speakers that won't play to loud and you kids can use it when moom and dad is not home without destroying the amp and speakers

Power limit,no more dynamics, at what max level does the amp play loudest without dynamic peaks hitting some kind of power limit ? Under 50% with normal loud recorded music ??

 

[kyuu]

The gain control,limit that makes it prevent playing as loud as other non limited TPA 3255 amps, can it be because of the limit from the psu or do to heat ?

Unless I'm misunderstanding what you're asking, the gain has nothing to do with thermal or power limits. If you want/need more gain, you can apply additional gain (individually for each source) in the app.

 

[gasolin75]

More that it might be limited in power compared to other tpa3255 amps because of heat or a 32volt psu instead of 40 volt+, there are tpa3255 amps rated at 2x250 watt in 4 ohm

It does get a little hot

 

[gasolin75]

Any thoughts on the Wiim Amp or Wiim Amp pro to power 6 pairs of B&W 362 ceiling speakers? Is it overkill to get the Amp pro?

wtf are you crazy, 12 speakers 1 par goes down to 5 ohm 2 pair something like 2.5 ohm, the amp is not stable at 2.5 ohm and you still havn't connect the 4 pair (8) of speakers

It can't handle that low impedans and it vill get super hot

 

[rsbroer]

wtf are you crazy, 12 speakers 1 par goes down to 5 ohm 2 pair something like 2.5 ohm, the amp is not stable at 2.5 ohm and you still havn't connect the 4 pair (8) of speakers

It can't handle that low impedans and it vill get super hot

Assuming your impedance number of 5 ohms, I guess gasolin75 could simply wire them as 2 parallel strings of 3 speakers in series, resulting in a 7.5 ohms impedance.

 

[gasolin75]

Assuming your impedance number of 5 ohms, I guess gasolin75 could simply wire them as 2 parallel strings of 3 speakers in series, resulting in a 7.5 ohms impedance.

who would do that ?

we are talking about 12 speakers, it was quoted 6 pair

 

[gasolin75]

Would the Wiim drive my [spare] DALI Opticon 2 mk2's [86.5dB , 4 ohm nominal impedance] in my small home office as a 3rd system in our home?
I plan to use it for Qobuz and internet radio streaming [radio paradise], low volume levels [may be an issue?] and not for critical listening.

without any doubt

 

[somebodyelse]

who would do that ?

Anyone used to speaker arrays. They often use arrangements like that to get total load of the array close to 'normal' to suit the amplifier.

we are talking about 12 speakers, it was quoted 6 pair

Correct. An array of six speakers per channel, with 2 channels, making 12 speakers.

 

[Petrushka]

I’ve posted this elsewhere, but there were wild original Amp supports Airplay2. Consider whether this is important.

 

[gasolin75]

Thats very different then lets say tekton speakers with 10 or 12 units pr speakers

 

[donahana]

Any way to let my speakers play down to 60hz or so but still let the subwoofer handle <80hz?

Currently using Dali Oberon 1 + KEF Kube 12b, small 3x3.2m bedroom with a queen-size bed so don`t really have much room to rearrange stuff, bass is not that great on main listening position, played with crossover between 50-100hz but doesn't really make a difference, mostly I miss that chest thump feeling, atm I can only really achieve it by using the "Main speakers output bass" toggle, effectively letting the speakers play full-range + sub crossed at 80hz

Can't say I'm unsatisfied with how it sounds but been wondering about this lately. Adding another subwoofer is definitely not in my plans since the bed itself takes half the room, then there's a nightstand, desk and computer, very limited space and the only place I could possibly put another sub was also very thin on bass for my MLP

Tried room correction from the WiiM app and overall it does sound better to me but didn't really do much for the low-end

Planned on buying the UMIK-1 for better room correction but still, assuming my speaker positioning/MLP indeed does suck (and I can't really do much about it unfortunately) what'd you guys do? Currently using "Main speakers output bass" + crossover sub anywhere from 60-80hz does it for me but I wonder how much better it could be with everything perfectly integrated, though since I can't do much about repositioning maybe I'm at a loss here?

 

[kyuu]

Have you tried simply implementing a bass shelf of 3 to 6dB starting around 120Hz? Might get you what you're looking for.

 

[gasolin75]

You need more a pair of Oberon 3's than Oberon 1's + EQ

Room correction ?

 

[donahana]

Have you tried simply implementing a bass shelf of 3 to 6dB starting around 120Hz? Might get you what you're looking for.

Had messed with EQ back when I got the WiiM and still wasn't that satisfied, though I've repositioned the sub (not like it helped much though) and speakers a tiny bit so might as well give it another try, since at MLP most of that thump comes from the speakers I guess focusing on the crossover region up to 120hz or so is the way to go and maybe I'm overthinking too much, just makes me a bit frustrated that the subwoofer isn't doing much for music at my MLP lol

EDIT: Quick testing and it does help a bit, kinda wanted the speakers to dig a lil bit deeper than 80hz though not full-range and still keep the sub at <80hz, gonna test more over the weekend, maybe lower crossover to 60hz or so and boost 60-120hz range

You need more a pair of Oberon 3's than Oberon 1's + EQ

Thought of that as well, was eyeing the Ascilab F6B more as an endgame upgrade though

 

[staticV3]

Any way to let my speakers play down to 60hz or so but still let the subwoofer handle <80hz?

You have these settings at the bottom:


WiiM have also recently added a high-pass filter option to the Custom EQ settings, so you could add that there.

What I'm not sure of is if you can enable "Main speakers output bass", then set a 60Hz HPF in the Custom EQ without that affecting the sub out as well.

Though if you're fine with running your Mains full-range, then you can leave out the 60Hz HPF and that setting will do what you want.

 

[gasolin75]

Currently using Dali Oberon 1 + KEF Kube 12b, small 3x3.2m bedroom with a queen-size bed so don`t really have much room to rearrange stuff, bass is not that great on main listening position, is more of a new thread about speakers then as much about the amp

BUT you can use the eq after a room correction or predefined frequency response

I feel it's a tighter,harder and drier bass, the oberon 3 is bigger and has more power handling down to 60hz

The amp doesn't have as much dynmaic power as older nad amps but can still play LOUD

Is the bass tight,punchy enough on these songs atleast 4 on the amp mine is + 1 db at 63 and 125hz

 

[donahana]

You have these settings at the bottom:
View attachment 472934

WiiM have also recently added a high-pass filter option to the Custom EQ settings, so you could add that there.

What I'm not sure of is if you can enable "Main speakers output bass", then set a 60Hz HPF in the Custom EQ without that affecting the sub out as well.

Though if you're fine with running your Mains full-range, then you can leave out the 60Hz HPF and that setting will do what you want.

Oh yeah, was messing around with EQ and noticed they added some filters (low-pass and high-pass are new-ish I believe), also just had the same doubt as in I'm not sure how a 60hz HPF would interact with the full-range toggle plus subwoofer, will test this later as it might be exactly what I'm looking for, for now letting them play full-range sounds best, maybe leaning towards slightly boomy but IMO that's better than having close to no bass impact at all, that's basically a lost "dimension" when listening to music

Guess I'm just overzealous wanting to set a specific frequency instead of letting them go full-range, I'm not playing ultra-loud anyway so likely no harm done having some boost in bass and letting them play full-range

Currently using Dali Oberon 1 + KEF Kube 12b, small 3x3.2m bedroom with a queen-size bed so don`t really have much room to rearrange stuff, bass is not that great on main listening position, is more of a new thread about speakers then as much about the amp

BUT you can use the eq after a room correction or predefined frequency response

I feel it's a tighter,harder and drier bass, the oberon 3 is bigger and has more power handling down to 60hz

The amp doesn't have as much dynmaic power as older nad amps but can still play LOUD

Is the bass tight,punchy enough on these songs atleast 4 on the amp mine is + 1 db at 63 and 125hz

60-80hz crossover with boosted 60-150hz helps a bit but full-range + <80hz subwoofer sounds best still, subwoofer is great when watching movies in bed but at my MLP for music it doesn't contribute much sadly

 

[gasolin75]

Space for them ? Monitor audio bronze 100

8" Frequency Response (-6 dB) 52 – 25,000 Hz (Free field) 37 – 30,000 Hz (In room) 110 db

Nominal Impedance
8 ohms

Minimum Impedance
4.5 ohms

Maximum SPL
110 dBA (pair)

Power Handling (RMS)
100 W

Recommended Amplifier Requirements
30 — 100 W

The wiim amp pro has 2x117watt in 4 ohm, power wise a good match

 

[Toshiba191]

Is there a noticeable difference in the sound between the Amp Pro and the Vibelink Amp?

Both have the same rating in Amir's reviews and I would pick the Amp Pro because of it's extra streaming abilities and HDMI. I know there is difference in power output, but both should be good enough to drive the Elac DBR62 which I consider buying.

What's your experience? Which one would you recommend?