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Which TPA3255 amp do you recommend?

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daniboun

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In preview ... I share with you the very first photo of the TPA355 from Allo (Design in process)

ALLO TPA3255 (measures from manufacturer) :

THD+N 5W , 1Khz 0.00014
THD+N 100W 20-20Khz 0.0097
THD+N 10W 20-20Khz 0.0091
SNR : about 117DB


 

bravomail

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[QUOTE = "bbaker6212, post: 707614, member: 28591"] Dove l'hai acquistato? Hai un link? [/ QUOTE]
Ho un preamplificatore e un amplificatore a valvole, ma ultimamente mi sono innamorato del piccolo integrato cinese in classe D.Per anni ho ascoltato bene con un BREEZE Tpa 3116 (100 watt x 2), ma ora vorrei comprarne un altro amplificatore per un secondo impianto hi-fi . Sono incerto tra AIYIMA 04, AIYIMA 07. Ma sarei interessato a sapere se il nuovo AIYIMA 08 è un buon amplificatore, o il corrispondente BRZ HIFI TPA3255-A (quello con le manopole alti, medi e bassi) o anche il BRZ HIFI TPA3255 X1 .
Attualmente utilizzo un DAC Topping D10 e guido un paio di Allison One, o talvolta RCF BR40.
Mi interessano anche altri amplificatori in classe D (Nobsound e qualsiasi altra marca) anche se devo spendere di più, purché siano migliori di quelli sopra citati. Grazie per i consigli
get A07. replace any 3116 with A07. Throw 3116 to trash. ??? Profit!
 

daniboun

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Get the Sabaj A20A without any doubt. Fully balanced and sounds awesome for a fair price)
 

bravomail

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Please pardon the noob question - I have a BRZ hifi TPA3255 amp , SMSL Sanskrit MK2 DAC and Elac DBR62 speakers.

How would one ideally connect an active sub in a setup like that?

The BRZhifi is replacing a NAD C320BEE which I could easily put a splitter between pre and power amp, but I'm having a little trouble figuring out how to work the sub with the new setup.

Thankful for any suggestions as well as all the great info on this awesome forum thus far!
Use your DAC in Preamp mode - and control volume with it.
Set you DAC to max volume for setup.
Fix your TPA3255 amp at a volume level which u find painful - but it's gonna be less than max (hopefully).
Split signal from DAC out RCA to subwoofer input and amp input. - I use special RCA cables with extra RCA jacks.
Tune subwoofer volume to match speakers volume - maybe use pink noise for that.
???
Profit
 

bravomail

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I am always a bit taken back by some of the claims with component changes. I know some of them are audible due to everything in the chain being apart of the entire formula for an amplifier design. I just have a hard time seeing any of these claims of better overall improvement being so noticeable with A/B testing when doing an overhaul of the components of an amp.
while I agree with general argument here, in case of AiYIMA A07 and LM4562 some forum member did actual measurements and noted about 1.5dB better SINAD with LM4562 vs NE5552. 1.5dB is "noticeable", right? :)
 

Walter

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while I agree with general argument here, in case of AiYIMA A07 and LM4562 some forum member did actual measurements and noted about 1.5dB better SINAD with LM4562 vs NE5552. 1.5dB is "noticeable", right? :)
1.5dB is noticeable IF it is not already below the threshold of audibility. Whether that is the case here, I have no idea.
 

bravomail

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Has anybody compared the A07 to the double Infineon MA12070 chip based amps such as the SMSL DA-9 and the newer SMSL AO200? I could not find a measurement review from AMIR for either of these amps.

I had Sabaj A20a (dual merus) and Aiyima A07. After listening to both I had to (sadly, I love having remote volume control!) send Sabaj back. In my test electronic music track there was a "congestion/unclarity/muddiness" in some mids during busy multi-instrument passages. A07 had no issue with those - all instruments were clearly separated. Could be issue with SMSL schematics. Could be issue with the chip with its "5-phase-step" amplification.
 

Walter

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get A07. replace any 3116 with A07. Throw 3116 to trash. ??? Profit!
Some TPA3116/8 implementations are quite good. Allo is the first one that comes to mind, but the SMSL SA-60 was not at all bad, either.
 

pma

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If I was asked, I would say neither TPA3255, nor MA12070 based amplifiers (or similar chips). These topologie are most primitive, from stone age of class D, before the year 2000. It is impossible to overcome their shortcomings, regardless the implementation. Wrong from the beginning, maybe good for car amplifiers or desktop PC background music.
 

iMickey503

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If I was asked, I would say neither TPA3255, nor MA12070 based amplifiers (or similar chips). These topologie are most primitive, from stone age of class D, before the year 2000. It is impossible to overcome their shortcomings, regardless the implementation. Wrong from the beginning, maybe good for car amplifiers or desktop PC background music.
What would you recommend in the less than a hundy club? If someone would be kind enough to point out a thread discussing this that would be really helpful.
Some of you guys are rocket engineers of amps, please give us the cliff notes version of some kits or boards to try out or audition that showcases the more recent advances in class D amplifier design/chipset.

Thanks!
 

ModDIY

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I had Sabaj A20a (dual merus) and Aiyima A07. After listening to both I had to (sadly, I love having remote volume control!) send Sabaj back. In my test electronic music track there was a "congestion/unclarity/muddiness" in some mids during busy multi-instrument passages. A07 had no issue with those - all instruments were clearly separated. Could be issue with SMSL schematics. Could be issue with the chip with its "5-phase-step" amplification.

I have the Sabaj A20a and I also have TPA3255. I didn't want to believe him when some said he needed a break-in. Does it play on the capacitors ?? This is what I believe. In short, after 2 weeks of break-in, the amp has a much better texture and the soundstage is excellent with very separate instruments. I mainly listen to classical and jazz music, a bit of rock, and in an ABX comparison with my class AB amps, I don't think I hear a difference except the power on big speakers. Make no mistake, the Infineon MERUS MA12070 is a breakthrough in the world of chip-based Class D amps.
 

thulle

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There seem to be a ton of experience with these amps in this thread, so I'm throwing this question in here. I'm currently looking for 8 channels of some cheap chip-amp that I can bolt down on heatsinks to make them handle the quite high average output to 8 subwoofers that I want to EQ individually. Anyone who's happened upon any that would fit?

The plan later on is to go for some 500 w/channel ncore-amp, but the expenses are getting a much in one go, so this seems like it could be a stopgap.
 

bravomail

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There seem to be a ton of experience with these amps in this thread, so I'm throwing this question in here. I'm currently looking for 8 channels of some cheap chip-amp that I can bolt down on heatsinks to make them handle the quite high average output to 8 subwoofers that I want to EQ individually. Anyone who's happened upon any that would fit?

The plan later on is to go for some 500 w/channel ncore-amp, but the expenses are getting a much in one go, so this seems like it could be a stopgap.
maybe try searching for 8-channel IcePower module?
 

maxxevv

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There seem to be a ton of experience with these amps in this thread, so I'm throwing this question in here. I'm currently looking for 8 channels of some cheap chip-amp that I can bolt down on heatsinks to make them handle the quite high average output to 8 subwoofers that I want to EQ individually. Anyone who's happened upon any that would fit?

The plan later on is to go for some 500 w/channel ncore-amp, but the expenses are getting a much in one go, so this seems like it could be a stopgap.
3eAudio used to offer a bridged version of their TPA3255 board. It was supposed to handle over 300W. Under US$100/- board.
Considering that subwoofers are inherently high in THD already, the board probably will cut it in terms of discernible performance.
I haven't seen one in a while, no idea if they are still offering it.
 

voodooless

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You are right, capslock. TPA32xx cannot come close to Purifi.
If I was asked, I would say neither TPA3255, nor MA12070 based amplifiers (or similar chips). These topologie are most primitive, from stone age of class D, before the year 2000. It is impossible to overcome their shortcomings, regardless the implementation. Wrong from the beginning, maybe good for car amplifiers or desktop PC background music.
You still think that after Toppings last showing? It surely does seem to come close after all. Now what I’m looking for is a THD vs frequency vs power graph to compare to the Purifi, finally found one:
1638689969137.png

VS Topping:
1638690029892.png

It seems the primitive brute does pretty well for what it is.
 

daniboun

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The inside puctures of the Topping PA5 show a TPA325x chip with high quality inductors (flat wires) with some secret op amps that we are still trying to guess. The amp has a solid PFFB implementation and the combo works definitely very well as shown by the measurements.

If you are looking for the best TPA325x amp two options now :

1) get the Topping PA5
2) wait for the coming soon Allo TPA3255 (see measurements I shared)
 

Serhii

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Hello everyone. Purchased a *shui yuan Audio TPA3255* board. The sound is excellent. But when the volume increases, a crackle comes from a tweeter on one channel, what could it be? Swapped the speakers (to exclude the speaker itself) - same.
Connection diagram: DC24V-4A(changed to gophert nps-1601) -> TPA3255 -> 2x50w (6Ohm component old music center) <- Creative X-fi Titanium.

While a beginner =)
 

Count Arthur

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Hello everyone. Purchased a *shui yuan Audio TPA3255* board. The sound is excellent. But when the volume increases, a crackle comes from a tweeter on one channel, what could it be? Swapped the speakers (to exclude the speaker itself) - same.
Connection diagram: DC24V-4A(changed to gophert nps-1601) -> TPA3255 -> 2x50w (6Ohm component old music center) <- Creative X-fi Titanium.

While a beginner =)
It could be the potentiometer.


If it's new, it maybe that the potentiometer is faulty and cleaning won't help, in which case you should replace it. You'll need to identify it's type, value and if it needs to be soldered to a PCB, the lead spacing.

Type: Linear or Logarithmic
Value: 10k, 50k 100k, etc.

It may have a part number on it, in which case you maybe able to search for that and find a direct replacement.

1638871207681.png


Try searching for part numbers at:
 
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