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Which speakers to buy to make my system better ?

FrantzM

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I am not sure I would consider the kef R3 and Revel M105 as speakers that would be happy playing very loud ...

Would be nice to know what's your budget.
If it is on the high side of things..

JBL 4367 for passive about $16,000
Genelec 1238A for active Same $16,000
JBL M2 for Active... $22,000

Your hearing will be damaged and give up permanently before the 2 last one do. THey are for all practical purposes full range.
 
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Sieniek

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Any particular reason why? Are you dissatisfied with how they sound? If so, what qualities do you want to improve?

You haven't said anything about what you want to achieve, besides ability to play louder. Certainly you can choose speakers based on how they measure. Besides measurements, what else do you want from new speakers?

I would say that the dispersion is the biggest problem. I love how my open baffle sound together with my subs but I hope I will get even better sound with conventional speakers and better dispersion and hopefully there will be more advantages.

For me the most important thing are fundamentals which are the measurements of speakers, DAC, amplifiers etc. When I have good fundamentals with their great and flat response then in the end I can use my Dirac to equalise the sound in a way how do I like the most - this is the way I am always fixing my sound to my liking. But I believe that these fixes works the best in the system which is as flat as possible, have full frequency response and as extended as possible, have a lot of headroom and have great measurements (thank you Amir !) which can make the system sound as transparent and as precise as possible - I believe Dirac will always work better with these as fundamentals.
 
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Sieniek

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Try the M106. The larger LF/Mid driver gives much more headroom, or consider the F206. With those big subs you could really kick ass.

Yeah I know, already kicked ass with what I have for now and I was lucky enough that my neighbours just love me anyway
Never had any problems with the despite my very loud music but I have been very polite and honest to them all the time. It is good to have good neighbours.

If I will pass the signal to subwoofers from 80hz or 100hz below will it still matter if I will go with Revel M105 or M106 ?
 

Beershaun

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Joecarrow

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I hate the be the guy who shows up to advocate for the speaker he’s got, but I think the LX521 addresses dispersion concerns fairly well. I’m not sure when it will show up here, but it has been my experience that it’s timbre stays quite stable as you move off axis. This is quite different from the other open baffle speakers I’ve heard, such as those from Spatial. The four-way design with smaller drivers keeps a more uniform directivity than the larger drivers that start to beam and break up. There are some other designs out there that similarly use relatively small dynamic drivers in an open baffle, but I’m not familiar with any that are sold as turnkey products.
 
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Sieniek

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I am not sure I would consider the kef R3 and Revel M105 as speakers that would be happy playing very loud ...

Would be nice to know what's your budget.
If it is on the high side of things..

JBL 4367 for passive about $16,000
Genelec 1238A for active Same $16,000
JBL M2 for Active... $22,000

Your hearing will be damaged and give up permanently before the 2 last one do. THey are for all practical purposes full range.

Thank you for your input.

Is there a point to go with full range speakers like you have pointed if I am using two subwoofers with 18” drivers each side ?

Will I be not able to play very loud or even louder than your suggested options when I will use M105 with a subwoofer on each side ?
 
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Sieniek

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I would second the recommendation on Revel, JBL, and Kef speakers above. My contradictory recommendation to the others is to go with floorstanding speakers instead of bookshelves. Their main advantage is higher SPL and that seems to be what you are looking for. Revel performa f228be would be an amazing setup with you subwoofers.

https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/revel-f228be-review-speaker.23659/

Thanks for a reply !

Is there any advantage in going a floorstander against an for example M105 + large subwoofer on each side ? Which would play louder, have better SPL capabilities?
 

Ron Texas

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Yeah I know, already kicked ass with what I have for now and I was lucky enough that my neighbours just love me anyway
Never had any problems with the despite my very loud music but I have been very polite and honest to them all the time. It is good to have good neighbours.

If I will pass the signal to subwoofers from 80hz or 100hz below will it still matter if I will go with Revel M105 or M106 ?

To answer your question, you will need a higher crossover with the M105's., even 100 might not be high enough. There are comments by our host about how the 106 can handle much more power. It might not seem like it when looking at the price and comparing specs, but going to the larger Low/mid driver makes a big difference in dynamic range. There are people using a 130 Hz crossover with small stand mounts. I'm at a seemingly crazy 170 Hz with LS50's and L12 subs. Yeah, the L12's aren't supposed to go that high, but I can cheat because of room acoustics.
 

Beershaun

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Thank you for your input.

Is there a point to go with full range speakers like you have pointed if I am using two subwoofers with 18” drivers each side ?

Will I be not able to play very loud or even louder than your suggested options when I will use M105 with a subwoofer on each side ?
Yes. Subwoofers work great with any speakers. The revels I recommended start dropping off at 50hz so they definitely will benefit from subwoofers. “There is no substitute for cubic inches” as they say in the automotive world.
 

dkinric

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Is that mean that even if I have two Rythmik subwoofers and if I will pair them with Revel M105 I will be not able to play as loud as Revel Salons alone can play ?

I know that with subwoofers obviously I would have more bass but what about an spl of the whole system ? Will Revel M105 play loud enough to keep pace with these subwoofers ? I mean if the Twitter and midrange woofer will have a possibility to play loud enough without any burning or braking ?
It means that the larger speakers can take more power. You seem to have concerns about how loud things will play. There are spl calculators you can use.
What is your amp rated/measured for power?
What is the sensitivity of the speakers? How big is the room (and distance to main listening position)?
How loud do you want it to be ( this is where the spl reading comes in)?
If you fill in some of the variables, you can figure out how loud it will play. Especially with powered subs, power demands needn’t be excessive in most living room setups.
 
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Sieniek

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I hate the be the guy who shows up to advocate for the speaker he’s got, but I think the LX521 addresses dispersion concerns fairly well. I’m not sure when it will show up here, but it has been my experience that it’s timbre stays quite stable as you move off axis. This is quite different from the other open baffle speakers I’ve heard, such as those from Spatial. The four-way design with smaller drivers keeps a more uniform directivity than the larger drivers that start to beam and break up. There are some other designs out there that similarly use relatively small dynamic drivers in an open baffle, but I’m not familiar with any that are sold as turnkey products.

Thank you my friend for the input ! Very informative post ! I am very curious about LX521 and I hope that someday I will be able to get to listen to them eventually.

Just out of curiosity, are there any advantages in open baffle speakers that we do not have in an conventional boxed speakers when it comes to sound ? I know it is much easier to build as I have done it myself but other than ease of build ?

I am asking because I am still learning and there is a lot which it would be nice to learn from you, much experienced guys, thank you.
 

dkinric

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To answer your question, you will need a higher crossover with the M105's., even 100 might not be high enough. There are comments by our host about how the 106 can handle much more power. It might not seem like it when looking at the price and comparing specs, but going to the larger Low/mid driver makes a big difference in dynamic range. There are people using a 130 Hz crossover with small stand mounts. I'm at a seemingly crazy 170 Hz with LS50's and L12 subs. Yeah, the L12's aren't supposed to go that high, but I can cheat because of room acoustics.
Why do you say you need a high crossover with M105s? Looking at the measured freq plot, they were 0 db down at 70 and only 3 down at 65. Depending on the slope of the low pass, 70 seems like a good crossover, lower than the usual 80.
 

Beershaun

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Thanks for a reply !

Is there any advantage in going a floorstander against an for example M105 + large subwoofer on each side ? Which would play louder, have better SPL capabilities?
Yes. Compare the review of the m105 to the f228be I posted above.

https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/revel-m105-bookshelf-speaker-review.14745/

In Amir’s same test the f228be peaks at 90db and slopes down to 85. The m105 peaks at 85db and slopes down to 80. So it tells you the floorstander puts out 5 more db across its response range given the same test signals.

and you should still keep and use your subwoofers with them whatever you get.
 

Ron Texas

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Why do you say you need a high crossover with M105s? Looking at the measured freq plot, they were 0 db down at 70 and only 3 down at 65. Depending on the slope of the low pass, 70 seems like a good crossover, lower than the usual 80.

Because that small 5" driver will bottom out when low frequencies hit it at high volume. The plot doesn't show that. The rest of your gear is great, why try to save a few bucks on your mains?
 

LTig

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Thank you for your input, really interesting what are you saying and I would agree with you that active package can be a lot cheaper than going passive but at the moment I have all my passive gears in my system which means it would be better for me to exchange the speakers only and stay with all the amps and SHD which I currently have.

Also I am sure the amps like Purifi measures way better with better SINAD than the amps in active speakers, this is the main reason for me to stay on the passive side.
I can understand this. IMV it's difficult to find speakers which can play as loud as your current ones (97 dB is a lot) and be better in sound quality. My best guess would be a large passive JBL studio monitor like the JBL 4367 (94 dB).
 

Ron Texas

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I can understand this. IMV it's difficult to find speakers which can play as loud as your current ones (97 dB is a lot) and be better in sound quality. My best guess would be a large passive JBL studio monitor like the JBL 4367 (94 dB).

That's out of his price range by an order of magnitude.

OP should be looking at floor standing speakers. Typical stand mounts will not do it for him.
 

Joecarrow

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Thank you my friend for the input ! Very informative post ! I am very curious about LX521 and I hope that someday I will be able to get to listen to them eventually.

Just out of curiosity, are there any advantages in open baffle speakers that we do not have in an conventional boxed speakers when it comes to sound ? I know it is much easier to build as I have done it myself but other than ease of build ?

I am asking because I am still learning and there is a lot which it would be nice to learn from you, much experienced guys, thank you.

It is not easy to keep constant directivity down below a few hundred hertz in a closed box. The Dutch and Dutch 8c and a few others pull off that trick, but mostly box speakers transition to omnidirectional below the baffle step frequency. Dipoles, on the other hand, can have narrower dispersion in the low hundreds of hertz (or lower) to have controlled nearly constant directivity across a wide range.

Another thing that open baffle speakers are able to do is sidestep them problem of cavity resonances, port resonances, and port noise. Obviously it puts a much greater demand on the drivers to produce satisfactory bass in this manner. Although the LX521 can play to well below 30hz they would be helped in maximum output by highpassing them and adding subs.

The last thing that comes to mind right now is the open baffle dipole’s ability to aim the dipole null at first reflection points. If they are positioned and aimed correctly this can reduce the magnitude of the first reflections fairly significantly. I’ve experimented with it and measured the results using the ETC graph in REW- it really does work, and it primarily influences imaging.
 
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Sieniek

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I am seriously thinking about Arendal 1723 THX floor standers (maybe monitors). Do you have any experience with them guys ?

Is Arendal only company which have THX certification in speakers ?
 

Ron Texas

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I am seriously thinking about Arendal 1723 THX floor standers (maybe monitors). Do you have any experience with them guys ?

Is Arendal only company which have THX certification in speakers ?

There are a lot of speaker reviews on this site. You should look through them. Keep in mind the preference score does not take into account the ability to play loud. There are all kinds of speakers available which can play loud, but have very uneven frequency response or unfavorable dispersion characteristics. Unfortunately, speakers which do it all, are not cheap. Look at the F208 review on this site.
 
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Sieniek

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To answer your question, you will need a higher crossover with the M105's., even 100 might not be high enough. There are comments by our host about how the 106 can handle much more power. It might not seem like it when looking at the price and comparing specs, but going to the larger Low/mid driver makes a big difference in dynamic range. There are people using a 130 Hz crossover with small stand mounts. I'm at a seemingly crazy 170 Hz with LS50's and L12 subs. Yeah, the L12's aren't supposed to go that high, but I can cheat because of room acoustics.

Thank you for all the info ! Maybe I should look into some floor standers. These Arendal 1723 are very tempting and looks like not overpriced (maybe, depend on the performance).
It means that the larger speakers can take more power. You seem to have concerns about how loud things will play. There are spl calculators you can use.
What is your amp rated/measured for power?
What is the sensitivity of the speakers? How big is the room (and distance to main listening position)?
How loud do you want it to be ( this is where the spl reading comes in)?
If you fill in some of the variables, you can figure out how loud it will play. Especially with powered subs, power demands needn’t be excessive in most living room setups.

I have Purifi amps from Audiophonics and they are rated something about 200W in 8 ohms if I remember correctly but around 130W in 8 ohms of the cleanest power, more than that and the distortions are getting higher and higher.
Sensitivity of my current speakers are 97.2db.
Room is 8m x 5m and around 3,5m to speakers from my listening position (my ears).

Yes. Compare the review of the m105 to the f228be I posted above.

https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/revel-m105-bookshelf-speaker-review.14745/

In Amir’s same test the f228be peaks at 90db and slopes down to 85. The m105 peaks at 85db and slopes down to 80. So it tells you the floorstander puts out 5 more db across its response range given the same test signals.

and you should still keep and use your subwoofers with them whatever you get.

Thanks man, I will look into these reviews carefully.
I can understand this. IMV it's difficult to find speakers which can play as loud as your current ones (97 dB is a lot) and be better in sound quality. My best guess would be a large passive JBL studio monitor like the JBL 4367 (94 dB).
Thank you for the suggestion !
It is not easy to keep constant directivity down below a few hundred hertz in a closed box. The Dutch and Dutch 8c and a few others pull off that trick, but mostly box speakers transition to omnidirectional below the baffle step frequency. Dipoles, on the other hand, can have narrower dispersion in the low hundreds of hertz (or lower) to have controlled nearly constant directivity across a wide range.

Another thing that open baffle speakers are able to do is sidestep them problem of cavity resonances, port resonances, and port noise. Obviously it puts a much greater demand on the drivers to produce satisfactory bass in this manner. Although the LX521 can play to well below 30hz they would be helped in maximum output by highpassing them and adding subs.

The last thing that comes to mind right now is the open baffle dipole’s ability to aim the dipole null at first reflection points. If they are positioned and aimed correctly this can reduce the magnitude of the first reflections fairly significantly. I’ve experimented with it and measured the results using the ETC graph in REW- it really does work, and it primarily influences imaging.
Thank you for all the info, it is good to know all of these. My main idea was to keep my open baffle speakers anyway so most probably this will be the time where I will be have two options and will compare them by listening and measure with umik microphone to see what is better for me in the end.

Thank you !
 
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