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Which speaker power cable.

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Alexx

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Thanks to all guys (even those who want to kick me out! ... I'm joking of course).

That's right, I write from Italy, and when I insert the text it's in English, I don't understand why it comes to you in Italian.

Going back to the cable you are right, I thought it was the fault of the cable but apparently it is not so.

Where I come from it is better not to ask, all shopkeepers present you mega hyper cables from 100,200 euros per meter ... absurd.

Ok then I'm looking for a "Mogami" or a Suppra (cables from 5-6 euros per meter) at the moment I haven't sold it.

Thanks for the advice, then I'll let you know how I fix it (I would like to have the Crossover modified as a last resort).
Soon.
 

Vacceo

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Thanks to all guys (even those who want to kick me out! ... I'm joking of course).

That's right, I write from Italy, and when I insert the text it's in English, I don't understand why it comes to you in Italian.

Going back to the cable you are right, I thought it was the fault of the cable but apparently it is not so.

Where I come from it is better not to ask, all shopkeepers present you mega hyper cables from 100,200 euros per meter ... absurd.

Ok then I'm looking for a "Mogami" or a Suppra (cables from 5-6 euros per meter) at the moment I haven't sold it.

Thanks for the advice, then I'll let you know how I fix it (I would like to have the Crossover modified as a last resort).
Soon.
Equalization is what will give you the best results. It can be done "the artisan way" by changing the placement of your speakers or electronically at the source. Do not expect miracles, but the improvements are absolutely possible.

Combine both for best results and do not let any vendor ripp you off on something that will not give you the results you want.
 

LTig

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Thanks to all guys (even those who want to kick me out! ... I'm joking of course).

That's right, I write from Italy, and when I insert the text it's in English, I don't understand why it comes to you in Italian.

Going back to the cable you are right, I thought it was the fault of the cable but apparently it is not so.

Where I come from it is better not to ask, all shopkeepers present you mega hyper cables from 100,200 euros per meter ... absurd.

Ok then I'm looking for a "Mogami" or a Suppra (cables from 5-6 euros per meter) at the moment I haven't sold it.

Thanks for the advice, then I'll let you know how I fix it (I would like to have the Crossover modified as a last resort).
Soon.
Regarding the cable: if you don't expect to earn a worthy amount of money by selling your current cables and buying a cheap proper cables just keep them.

Taming brightness of speakers: first I would try different angles of toe in. This costs nothing. The next step would be using tone controls if your has them. After that comes EQ which is very worth to do anyway because you can improve the sound below the Schroedinger frequency (depends on the room, up to several 100 Hz) - this is called room EQ. Finally a better speaker might be the best solution, including room EQ.

You should also think about adding one or two subs.
 

voodooless

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Where I come from it is better not to ask, all shopkeepers present you mega hyper cables from 100,200 euros per meter ... absurd.
Ask them if they also believe in Homeopathy ;)
Ok then I'm looking for a "Mogami" or a Suppra (cables from 5-6 euros per meter) at the moment I haven't sold it.

Thanks for the advice, then I'll let you know how I fix it (I would like to have the Crossover modified as a last resort).
As I mentioned before, try out the treble setting of your amp first. That might already fix it for the most part. Costs absolutely nothing.
 
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Alexx

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Good morning.

I update you, I solved 90% the solution was to change all the capacitors of the Croosover (Clariti Cap and Jantzen).

Also the dome tweeter capacitor was lowered the capacitance (from 6.8 to 5.6mf) so I was able to noticeably smooth out the hiss on the highs ...

In a very small part it remained (unfortunately it is the prerogative of the speaker) but no longer evident as before.

Concluding with a multi socket what can I put (some recommend with star connection) like the wireworld matrix2 (a little too expensive).
Thank you.

PS: With the treble setting the problem was removed but the entire midrange was also attenuated too much (a muffled sound).
 

DSJR

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What you really need to do is objectively see what you've done to your speakers, otherwise you may get a 'cold' which messes with your ears and all that perceived 'smoother' high frequencies will all but disappear while your ears are clogged up. Hope you understand what I mean here, but our ears physically, can change day by day as well as our mood affecting how we perceive things. A UMIK mic and REW software can tell you repeatedly and pretty accurately (for domestic use at least) what your stereo is doing and whether tweaks you've made to the speakers and room are working or not.

Messing with crossover caps is a nightmare, because all these 'boutique expensive' caps may well have lower internal resistance at least and this can in some cases alter the way the particular crossover works. It's things like this (which can be measured as well as heard) which makes subjectivist fiddling a total no-no really, as it's nothing more than guesswork depending how you feel on the day (if that makes sense).

As far as European speaker wire is concerned, KabelDirekt (via Amazon) seem to do some good proper copper cables in different gauges and lengths and you avoid the huge audio-dealer profit margins (often 60% and sometimes more - I speak from first hand experience).

Stick around - Much to learn and I expect a lot to 'un-learn' as well :)
 

tomtoo

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So first someone talks about cables then he changes all caps in the crossover somehow pi*thumb? And all is good?

That makes me very sceptical.
 
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Alexx

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Precisely on this forum there is a 3D dedicated to the Dali Opticons where we talk about replacing all the capacitors (of the same value) with the best brand in practice they are the same ones that mount the Dali Rubicon 6 (Mundorf).

I have simply replaced the 6.8 with a 5.6 and it is the only way to reduce the "hiss". Other alternative would be to change speakers.

I realize that it is a gambling solution!

Later I will take the Bluos module for 399 so it will help me in the future.

Thanks also for the cable tip now I look at Amazon.

See you soon and thank you very much.
 

spiral scratch

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So first someone talks about cables then he changes all caps in the crossover somehow pi*thumb? And all is good?

That makes me very sceptical.

Yeh, I've made the mistake thinking a wire was going to solve my problems then followed with other suspect ideas. Without proper A/B comparision with measurements, the process is a fool's errand. If the OP hasn't had a chance to look around here, I'd suggest a look here. It will save a lot of time and help clarify what is actually important.






There's many more links, but these were a few that helped me get on track. And of course any basic well constructed 16 - 12 awg copper wire will do the job as a speaker wire.
 

voodooless

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Precisely on this forum there is a 3D dedicated to the Dali Opticons where we talk about replacing all the capacitors (of the same value) with the best brand in practice they are the same ones that mount the Dali Rubicon 6 (Mundorf).
Yeah, no:
I have simply replaced the 6.8 with a 5.6 and it is the only way to reduce the "hiss".
That would change the crossover point area, not the part where the high frequency is actually peaking. It might do something, but I doubt it does the right thing.
Other alternative would be to change speakers.
Or use the treble setting on the amp, as I pointed out twice. Costs absolutely nothing!
 
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Alexx

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@spiral scratch: Thank you very much for the links, very useful now I read them calmly so I avoid spending money unnecessarily !!!
Thanks again.

@voodooless: In practice, the crossover crossing point also changes, you're right (even if marginally) worse it would have been with a Cap 4.6 then I would have upset everything ...

By ear, in addition to the "softer" highs, I have not detected other anomalies, I honestly really like this small modification, at least it does not make me sell a new 2-month speaker, giving us back a lot of money (at least 4-500 euros)

Unfortunately I made an incorrect purchase and for the moment I have no other solutions then later on budget allowing me to sell them and take other more suitable to my tastes.

For the control of the treble I do not solve anything, if I attenuate the "hiss" I go to muffle the whole mid-high range too much and the sound is not pleasant, with the condenser instead it does not interest the other frequencies, it has removed a very small excess from the Tweetter ( only the domed one, the ribbon one remained fanatic and unchanged).

Surely with Dirac Blue Module it would have been better but I don't have 600 euros to spend.

For now I will stop so later I will ask advice for other speakers (possibly from the bookshelf).
Thank you in advance.
 
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Alexx

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Guys just to update you.

I have thought about it and as you have suggested it is not worth wasting money on super expensive cables (I found supra Ply 3.4 at 7 euros per meter and I take this).

What I want to tell you is that I have decided to change speakers (I don't even want to spend on changes to the crossover)

I don't like the tone of this Oppticon6, in addition to the too bright highs, something is missing in the midrange ..... they are not for me.

I'm evaluating Tablette 10 special (too small though?) Kef LS50 Metal - Kef R3 - jbl L52 Classic or I don't know what other brand ... as long as it has a good mid-high range without hissing on the voices, tending to a warm sound.

Budget 2000 euro it is important that they are off the shelf (I am much easier to get it than I am moving house and it is smaller) listening distance about 2.5 meters.

For the bass I have a 25Cm B&W active subwoofer.
Thank you.
 

JSmith

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I don't like the tone of this Oppticon6, in addition to the too bright highs, something is missing in the midrange ..... they are not for me.
They seem like a pretty good speaker;
Instead of chasing a certain sound from a speaker, why don't you consider EQ of the sources? Have you addressed the room itself?


JSmith
 
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Alexx

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The problem is that I have to change the listening room, it is very small and near a piano, I have difficulty in placing them.

While the sound I find it strong in the highs (dome tweeters only) the S-Z-C-T etc. they are all hissing, the ribbon tweeter are good on this I can't find a solution.

In addition, the midrange is a backward and not very present (perhaps because there is no dedicated midrange?) In effect they are 2-and-a-half-way speakers ..

I do not know what to do! I put curtains, carpets, furniture, speaker direction (I preferred the old Kef R300s) I don't want to change this exuberance on the dome tweeter and the lack of mids.

For this reason I was thinking of changing the speaker, I have been testing and not solving for more than a month
Thank you.
 

kaopad999

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Good morning.
I'm looking for a speaker cable for my system (neutral / warm sounding).

At the moment Furutech Alpha S14 cable is too bright.

Dali Opticon6 MKII loudspeakers
Nad 399 amplifier

I got lost in the huge amount of models!

From what I have read on the net silver plated cables are to be avoided (Qed Revelation).

The probable ones are:

Tellurium Q ultra Blue

Chord Clearway X

Elac Reference

Van Den Hul CS122

Supra Ply 3.4 (maybe too cheap).

I have no preference if finished I have no (I have my cambridge bananas).

Long 2.5X2 meters

What do you think.
Thanks in advance for the help.

PS. I hope it is written in English
Please do not bother wasting your money and time on speaker cables, ive never heard any difference. And even if they did make a slight difference, which i am certain they don't , then they should be the very last thing to chnage.
The first two things you should be looking at are your speakers and your room acoustics.
 

antcollinet

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Good morning.
I'm looking for a speaker cable for my system (neutral / warm sounding).

At the moment Furutech Alpha S14 cable is too bright.

Dali Opticon6 MKII loudspeakers
Nad 399 amplifier

I got lost in the huge amount of models!

From what I have read on the net silver plated cables are to be avoided (Qed Revelation).

The probable ones are:

Tellurium Q ultra Blue

Chord Clearway X

Elac Reference

Van Den Hul CS122

Supra Ply 3.4 (maybe too cheap).

I have no preference if finished I have no (I have my cambridge bananas).

Long 2.5X2 meters

What do you think.
Thanks in advance for the help.

PS. I hope it is written in English
You've had lots of good advice on cables.

What is your source? If it is a PC/laptop, then you can get free multiband graphic equailisers for the output which will almost certainly do a reasonable job of taming the brightness you hear - as a second step after optimising speaker position. No need to spend more money.

The next step would be measurements and paremetric equalisation/room correction, as others have suggested. But you may well feel you don't need to go that far.
 
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