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Which speaker driver shows the best measurements?

Yes, Acoustic Elegance, CSS are great woofers and low HD.

On the cheap- Dayton SD215A-88 for below 150Hz...
SDrightHD.jpg
 
Reading this thread I realise I have quite a few of these drivers sitting on my shelves. I really need to get back into building cabinets for them
 
Which ones you got? Let's plan you a project ;)
I’m considering to use ring tweeter like SS R2904, R3004, SB and XT etc.. There are lots of SUPER clear speaker using ring tweeter like Lipinksi, Barefoot but I can’t find the way to solve HD2 in ring tweeters.. Does anybody have solution? If you give ideas, I’ll test with bunch of cheap XT tweeters.
 
With RR tweeters, the HD will rise as you go lower and approach the self resonance or Fs. You can try to compensate for the Fs spike with conjugate circuitry which will help immensely, whether a full LCR or resistor across the tweeter. Even so, they aren't going to play awfully low, and most do not prefer xover points below 2k even with compensation. The SS Discovery double magnet (like the Tymphany BG60) has been used reliably down to 1.8k.
 
Ring Radiators have a nice advantage that the radiating surface matches the voice coil nicely and does not have large cantilevered surface area to start vibrating on its own. This allows "regular" materials like aluminum, titanium and phenolic impregnated fabric to behave as well as a dome made of Beryllium , diamond, sapphire or other unobtainium exotica.

My experience with RRs is the JBL 075,077 and 078 which are great tweeters. I have a pair of Dorian marble tops wherein they are crossed over at 2500 Hz. I consider this to be at least an octave too low. The best use of these drivers is in the top two octaves (JBL has an N7000 7KHz crossover that is a much better idea. They work fine at 5 kHz too.

The guy that helped me build my speakers built an all JBL setup which was triamped. The Top channel was a 375 two inch on a short horn with a slant plate lens and an N7000 to an 077. The 375 played down to about 1000 hz and crossed to an LE10.

The Current JBL offerings still use ring radiators. I have not drilled down to how the dual voice coil system works since it is more expensive than I would ever buy. I have been curious about the many newer RRs I see for sale which resemble the above classics. Some from budget makers others from serious manufacturers.

Having been away from audio and returned, I am surprised to see so many two way systems. I still prefer four way , five way or "three way with a sub"
It allows you to size your drivers and select your crossover points so that you do a good job of radiating into half space. With a four way you would really have to be trying to make it sound bad.
 
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https://audioxpress.com/article/Test-Bench-Scan-Speak-10F-8414G10-Small-3-5-Full-Range-Woofer

https://www.erinsaudiocorner.com/driveunits/scanspeak_discovery_10f8414g10_fullrange/

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/5F-10F.htm

Scan-Speak makes the best measuring widebander I have ever seen. Very smooth response and smoothly narrowing directivity. As Troels and Vance observed, HF distortion and listening window directivity on par with a dome tweeter. Smooth response to 16kHz and only relatively slight waviness past that. Has a neo motor, copper cap and very open frame. Very underrated, maybe because it's not quite exotic or idiosyncratic enough for wideband driver fetishists.

Imagine a 6.5" or even 8" crossed to this at 600Hz (matching directivity at crossover), sacrificing top-end directivity control and width for less vertical lobing. A well-engineered non-voodoo Boenicke W5 would use this driver.
 
XRK over on diyaudio did just this with a 10F/RS225 combo.

FWIW, I've heard the 10F a few times, and it is not one of my favorite 3" drivers, even though it measures well.
 
XRK over on diyaudio did just this with a 10F/RS225 combo.

FWIW, I've heard the 10F a few times, and it is not one of my favorite 3" drivers, even though it measures well.

Yeah, I saw XRK's design, he uses the older, more expensive lower Qts variant (8424). The basket and motor look quite different. The 8414 has a more open basket and motor that almost looks like a small Illuminator.

The 4 ohm version of the 8424 (4424) performs worse than the newer 8414 on Erin's rig. Not sure where the 8424 stands compared to both.
 
Please don't take offence here, but
I noticed you have just joined a forum mostly focused on objective measurements of systems, not components. There are several forums that are dedicated to speaker system design where you may get more pertinent information.

Is this something you intend to embark on, or is this an intellectual effort just to see how far we have progressed?

By absolute best, but then you say on-axis only as if frequency response was the most important factor, which it demonstrably is not.
Best for what use? Desktop monitors for studio remixing? Relaxed listening in a fully functional living room? Dedicated built HT? The very best tweeter has to be able to work with the mid, which has to work... You get it. For instance a dirt cheap XT-25G on-axis if crossed above 3K wil stomp on many $300 domes. But cross it @ 2K as so many insist on, and might as well use a $1.49 buyout cone. Off axis, it falls flat. The old HDS tweeter has very low distortion, but taming its response is a nightmare. If doing remixing, I may want an boosted mid to listen for defects. Make the worst sound the worst. Think old JBK L100's . So best depends on their use. Some domes are fantastic 15 degrees off, but peaky rising response on-axis. Add a waveguide to a ring radiator and you get not much more than a focused beam. Best "depends"

I am a pretty new at this having only 45 years or so speaker building. Not a lot of them as I was able to build "good enough" about 10 years ago, though itching to try some newer drivers.

It is unfortunate that even price no object, all drivers are so bad they have unique sound independent of implementation. So best may depend on personal preference. Some consider ribbons the "only" tweeter. I don't. Some like wave guides and horns. I do not. I do like the big Martin Logan's, so I am not a box-only guy. To use them, I would have to build a new listening room though. Adding 50 to 100K to a speaker budget is a bit rough.

Drivers that have gotten my attention recently would include the new CSS mid and tweeter, purify mid bass, SB ceramic mid and tweeter, Transducer Technology tweeters, and the Peerless ceramic tweeter. Some like the Accutron seem to have too many compromises even though most excellent sounding. I would like to play with some of the "full range" as mids. When I built my subs, the Peerless XLSS was by far the cleanest, but I suspect many more better ones now. Drivers like the Seas T29D2002 are irrelevant to me. I do not like consumer level DSP processing and I have not exhausted what I can do with passive crossovers, so ease of implementation with passive crossovers is a big factor in "best" for me. If fully independently amped, full DSP of sufficient quality, etc, best may be different.

Many companies have tried to build the best of the best. Wilson Wamm for instance. B&W Nautilus maybe. ML Neolith. I have heard a few and they are all flawed. Better than anything I can build by orders of magnitude, but flawed. And $100,000 for a pair of speakers is a bit hart to swallow even if they are the best. None of these use off-the-shelf drivers.

My next focus is on how clean the 2K to 5K region is. This is where we are most sensitive. It puts a big burden on the distortion of the mid-base as those artifacts are what show up in the upper mids and lower treble. I may have been paying too much attention to the tweeter. Inexpensive drivers like a Mark 4 inch maybe. Even the dirt cheap Dayton RS100 might make a supurb mid if used well. Back to a classic 8 inch 3-way.

So, "it depends"
 
I have a scanspeak ringradiator with waveguide in my active loudspeakers . Compared to Genelecs more expensive monitors, and some of the smaller ones I have been measuring, the sound is good, but using a waveguide makes some pressure on the cone in a tweeter so I will continue testing with a Seas metal dometweeter to see if the sound can get even better. .
 

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Shallow mount sub. https://meniscus.lightningbasehosted.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/SW26DAC76-4-Data-Sheet.pdf
Spec'd at 24mm p-to-p, so 12mm one-way "linear". I measured 6.6mm one-way "linear" using the more relaxed distortion threshold of 20% (as opposed to 10% for non-subwoofers):
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/thre...ac76-4-shallow-subwoofer-klippel-test.115336/
[...]

Interesting, so what alternative -shallow mount- sub. do you know which offers better sub. parameters/ XMAX?
For "normal" subwoofers the Scan Speak 26W/4558T00 & 30W/4558T00 are a no brainer but shallow ones with a good price/ performance ratio are hart to find...
 
My active speakers has SB drivers before I had active with scan speak and tried several Scan speak tweeters, on every occasion Sinar Baja drivers and tweeters where better. Also I’m pretty sure SB hired engineers from Scan speak.
Not bashing Scan speak as the make very nice drivers, just saying SB makes as good if not better drivers for a fraction of the price as they are made in Indonesia.
 
The ScanSpeak 9900 appears to be quite something even today. It measures as well as the Bliesma T34B and T29B. I wonder what a deeper waveguide would do to its performance.

Check it out! :)
https://hificompass.com/ru/speakers/measurements/scan-speak/scanspeak-d2905990000
I had Scan Speak Reference Monitor DIY speakers that used this tweeter and went to Revel M106 and pure subjectively speaking the treble on both these speakers was really good. The Revel is probably a bit better in terms of woofer integration and has a bit tighter bass I think, but I wouldn't be surprised if the Scan Speak matches the Revel in terms of distortion because it could play really loud without distorting. Detailed without sounding sharp, never struggled.
 
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