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Which power supply should I pair with AIYIMA A07 TPA3255 amp?

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andrewjohn007

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I mentioned this in my prior post, however by way of background, these are (IMHO) the absolute best barrel connectors that I have come across:

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/10-02389/tensility-international?q=10-02389

They are a molded connector, use true 16 AWG wires in their pigtails and are rated for 300V and high amperage. Although the wires are in a zip cord fashion, I split them and created a twisted pair. I was originally using a Switchcraft barrel connector, however its design incorporates a barrel tip with a metal flange. Whenever I inserted the barrel into the A07, I would get a spark. Hence me swapping out to a molded plastic body style.
 

rrowland

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andrewjohn007 can you tell me, when you make the connection to the output terminals on your psu does it matter which wire from the twisted pair goes to live/neutral? Marking on the cable jacket just indicates inner (positive) and outer? Thanks,rr
 

andrewjohn007

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The inner part of barrel tip is positive, whereas the outer part of the barrel is negative.
 

rrowland

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Sorry, I mean do you need to idetify positive and negative when making the connection between the leads from the barrel connector and the psu terminals?
 

andrewjohn007

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If there aren't any markings on the wires themselves, you would use a multimeter and test for continuity between wire and the two conductors of the barrel connector, those being inner tip and outer barrel.
 

Scrufboy

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Edit - This was being written as andrewjohn007 was responding and therefore some of the information is redundant.

Aren't there clear markings on the outside of the insulation of your pre wired DC barrel plug? No company makes something like this where it isn't possible to tell which lead is which.

Also... You could use a multimeter to determine and mark which of the two leads is tip positive. Not too hard to do this yourself.

Depending on what is used... There are either smaller wires on the inside of the outer insulation, each with their own color coded insulation, or there is a clear indicator on the outside of the positive wire. A white line, a dotted line, a texture, etc.

Aside from this. Hooking up the Aiyima to the power supply this way for normal, every day use, although it works, is ultimately the most unsafe way to do this. Or should we say, it presents the most risk. You have to secure the AC line so it doesn't pose a risk for electric shock. I was a naysayer at first and scoffed at the concern others had for my first version of the implementation of this Drok power supply.

Ultimately, its just better to be safe and I like how version 3 turned out. I have a larger V4 planned that incorporates an isolated DC to DC module with filtering so I can run my entire setup from the one power supply.

See the Pics

So here is my solution. Instead of just bare wires, or spades being attached to the terminals and then these wires running to the amplifier..

I used 5.5x2.5 DC sockets, a heavy duty toggle and an IEC socket. The enclosure is vented both top and bottom. All the wiring is covered and protected from any contact inside this enclosure.

This version has the DC sockets wired to the terminals tip positive obviously. The third terminal is wired to a step down buck converter for 5V 3A USB output. It is however not clean power for audio and is only used for illumination and a cooling fan setup.

I power both my A07 and my A3001 with this same Drok supply.

5.5x2.5 male to male DC cables can be purchased on Amazon. They can come without without ferrite cores built in.

I do own the barrel plug the other contributor suggested, however I opted for a more robust Oyaide DC-2.5G Canare-4S6 Power Supply Cable that was made for me by Ghent Audio. This is by far a superior DC barrel plug with a 4x20 AWG Star Quad cable. - http://ghentaudio.com/part/dc03.html

These can also be upgraded to 4x20awg OFC, 4x16AWG and even a double shielded JSSG360 version if you needed it.

I am not advising against anyone elses proposed solutions. I am simply offering mine as an option.

Good luck with your setup.
 

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andrewjohn007

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Edit - This was being written as andrewjohn007 was responding and therefore some of the information is redundant.

Aren't there clear markings on the outside of the insulation of your pre wired DC barrel plug? No company makes something like this where it isn't possible to tell which lead is which.

Also... You could use a multimeter to determine and mark which of the two leads is tip positive. Not too hard to do this yourself.

Depending on what is used... There are either smaller wires on the inside of the outer insulation, each with their own color coded insulation, or there is a clear indicator on the outside of the positive wire. A white line, a dotted line, a texture, etc.

Aside from this. Hooking up the Aiyima to the power supply this way for normal, every day use, although it works, is ultimately the most unsafe way to do this. Or should we say, it presents the most risk. You have to secure the AC line so it doesn't pose a risk for electric shock. I was a naysayer at first and scoffed at the concern others had for my first version of the implementation of this Drok power supply.

Ultimately, its just better to be safe and I like how version 3 turned out. I have a larger V4 planned that incorporates an isolated DC to DC module with filtering so I can run my entire setup from the one power supply.

See the Pics

So here is my solution. Instead of just bare wires, or spades being attached to the terminals and then these wires running to the amplifier..

I used 5.5x2.5 DC sockets, a heavy duty toggle and an IEC socket. The enclosure is vented both top and bottom. All the wiring is covered and protected from any contact inside this enclosure.

This version has the DC sockets wired to the terminals tip positive obviously. The third terminal is wired to a step down buck converter for 5V 3A USB output. It is however not clean power for audio and is only used for illumination and a cooling fan setup.

I power both my A07 and my A3001 with this same Drok supply.

5.5x2.5 male to male DC cables can be purchased on Amazon. They can come without without ferrite cores built in.

I do own the barrel plug the other contributor suggested, however I opted for a more robust Oyaide DC-2.5G Canare-4S6 Power Supply Cable that was made for me by Ghent Audio. This is by far a superior DC barrel plug with a 4x20 AWG Star Quad cable. - http://ghentaudio.com/part/dc03.html

These can also be upgraded to 4x20awg OFC, 4x16AWG and even a double shielded JSSG360 version if you needed it.

I am not advising against anyone elses proposed solutions. I am simply offering mine as an option.

Good luck with your setup.
Rock solid advice! Thank you for taking the time to field that inquiry! Ghent does some fantastic work as you already know.
 

rrowland

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Rock solid advice! Thank you for taking the time to field that inquiry! Ghent does some fantastic work as you already know.
Appreciate all in the good advice. I was actually looking at a bad image of the dc cable in question and now see centre positive is marked with a stripe down the cable jacket to the tinned wire ends. I guess what's interesting me is the capacity of dc jacks and associated wiring to carry the amps required to benefit from an upgraded psu.
 

Dushyant

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Super chuffed to tell you that you can run A07 any USB C Laptop charger with 100 watts by simply buying this cable that converts USB C to Barrael 2.5mm / 5.5 mm

That cable costs just $10 and you’ll easily get or have a clean quality 100watt usb C laptop charger at home

I think the important bit is the chip in cable to trigger Power Delivery to higher voltages and full wattage

I’m driving my Monitor Audio Silver 100 with 88db sensitivity at nominal 8 ohm impedence down to 4.5 ohms - at 30% volume on A07 I’m getting room filling sound for 8 x 8 metre room

Cablecc Type C USB-C Female Input to DC 5.5x2.5mm Power PD Charge Cable fit for Laptop 18-20V https://a.co/d/fb47tXQ
 

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dguillor

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My A07 on the 48v 10 amp PS runs dead silent. I've got another one I'm setting up with the 32v 5amp brick. Im only running tweeters off of it so I don't really need the extra power. I'll post if I hear any noise from it though.
How warm does the amp get with a 48V supply? Thanks.
 

dguillor

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I am a bit confused about the power out table for the A07. For a 36V 6A supply they say the rated power is 108W into 4 ohms.

Power out=Irms^2 x R
Irms=Ipeak x 0.707=6A x 0.707 = 4.24A
Power out= 4.24A^2 x 4ohms = 72W
What am I missing? Thanks.
 
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LevinGuitar

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Doodski

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I want to thank the one who recommended using a 10A 24v power supply, I,m so happy now with my A07 (OPA1656) and the old Infinity SM65. I don,t tried the 32V psu btw, just had a random 24V 4.7A before. The 10A one makes a nice (not big) difference.

I bought this PSU, the cables are quite short!

And this OPAs
Nice MOD on the 10 A power supply. Do you have a multimeter with the amps/current measuring function? I'm dying to get current draw numbers on these amps. If you could measure the current draw that would be awesome. :D
 
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