What's your headphone system end game?

[trl]

I'm perfectly happy with my existing living setup containing: Audeze LCD-2F, Hifiman HE-560 and Fostex T50RP-mk3 driven by Burson CV2+ and C3X.
In bedroom I'm perfectly OK with ASUS Essence One MKii + Matrix HPA-3B and AKG K701 and AKG K550.
In bed I use either Beats Solo2 + MacBook Pro (or via ODAC v1 + Objective2), either Beats Studio 3 Wireless + cellphone.

However, I am sometimes dreaming to a 120dB THD+N DAC from Benchmark, Matrix or Topping, even if I would probably be unable to tell a difference over my existing DACs. Probably LCD-4 + Benchmark DAC3 + Benchmark HPA1 could be an end game for me and many of us too.

 

[MRC01]

Ron Texas started a general "What is your dream system?" thread. I thought I would start one specific to headphones, DAC, Amp, etc... So whats on your list?

I'm perfectly happy with my existing living setup containing: Audeze LCD-2F ...

My end game headphone system. I enjoy it immensely and have no plans to change anything.
Audeze LCD-2F headphones (2016 drivers)
Corda Soul DAC + headphone amp
Behringer DEQ2496 for parametric EQ
Source: anything that can send the musical bits

The LCD-2F is the most natural, realistic headphone I have heard, though it has a response dip centered around 4 kHz. I use the DEQ2496 to apply a simple, gentle parametric EQ to partially correct this: +3.5 dB @ 4 kHz, Q=0.67 (1 octave on each side).

 

[Gus141]

My end game headphone system. I enjoy it immensely and have no plans to change anything.
Audeze LCD-2F headphones (2016 drivers)
Corda Soul DAC + headphone amp
Behringer DEQ2496 for parametric EQ
Source: anything that can send the musical bits

The LCD-2F is the most natural, realistic headphone I have heard, though it has a response dip centered around 4 kHz. I use the DEQ2496 to apply a simple, gentle parametric EQ to partially correct this: +3.5 dB @ 4 kHz, Q=0.67 (1 octave on each side).

Thanks for posting your PEQ for the LCD-2F. It’s great when people share the settings they’ve discovered that gets the best sound out of their gear.

I use the RME ADI-2 DAC’s DSP capabilities to tame some of the highly criticized peaks and valleys of the Sony MDR-Z1R. Here are my PEQ settings (all peak filters) for the Sony MDR-Z1R if anyone is interested (with these settings, these cans are the best I’ve ever heard):
Band1: Gain +1.0, Freq 1.35k, Q 2.7
B2: +4.5, 2.9k, Q 9.9
B3: -7.5, 3.3k, Q 3.3
B4: +8, 4.2k, Q 3.1
B5: -5.5, 10.0k, Q 3.6

It looks more aggressive than it ends up being when all combined. Here is a pic of the ADI-2’s display for this PEQ curve:

 

[amadeuswus]

Wowowow. Very esoteric headphones you posted.
https://raalrequisite.com/sr1a-earfield-monitors/

Herb Reichert's Stereophile review of the RAAL sr1a headphonse is on the website:

https://www.stereophile.com/content/gramophone-dreams-32-raal-requisite-sr1a-headphones

Note however that the sr1a's ribbon/amp interface box forces you to cross Right and Left cables... or maybe I am looking at it cross-eyed...

https://raalrequisite.com/accessories/

 

[MRC01]

I'm perfectly happy with my existing living setup containing: Audeze LCD-2F ... However, I am sometimes dreaming to ... LCD-4...

I have not listened to the LCD-4, but based on measurements the LCD-2F seems the best of the Audeze LCD lineup. It has the flattest frequency response, with distortion and CSD as good as the rest. Put differently, whatever is better about the more expensive models, doesn't seem obvious in any measurements. Audeze says the LCD-4 has a lighter driver mass but I haven't seen any measured difference. In 2016 Audeze revised the LCD-2F drivers reducing their mass. Perhaps it is already light enough that making it even lighter (in the -4) didn't have much practical benefit?

Sure the LCD-4 is a lot more expensive, but is the LCD-2F to LCD-4 really an upgrade? If so in what respects? Perhaps someone more familiar with the other LCD models (maybe @solderdude) can elucidate.

 

[trl]

Herb Reichert's Stereophile review of the RAAL sr1a headphonse is on the website:

https://www.stereophile.com/content/gramophone-dreams-32-raal-requisite-sr1a-headphones

Note however that the sr1a's ribbon/amp interface box forces you to cross Right and Left cables... or maybe I am looking at it cross-eyed...

https://raalrequisite.com/accessories/

I do like RAAL's recommendations for the headphones amplifier:
"100W Speaker Amp
Required
Any loudspeaker amplifier will work."
Given their 10KOhms impedance (if I read correctly Stereophille's graph), I guess that means about 40mW of real power (20V RMS @10KHms).

 

[solderdude]

I have not listened to the LCD-4, but based on measurements the LCD-2F seems the best of the Audeze LCD lineup. It has the flattest frequency response, with distortion and CSD as good as the rest. Put differently, whatever is better about the more expensive models, doesn't seem obvious in any measurements. Audeze says the LCD-4 has a lighter driver mass but I haven't seen any measured difference. In 2016 Audeze revised the LCD-2F drivers reducing their mass. Perhaps it is already light enough that making it even lighter (in the -4) didn't have much practical benefit?

Sure the LCD-4 is a lot more expensive, but is the LCD-2F to LCD-4 really an upgrade? If so in what respects? Perhaps someone more familiar with the other LCD models (maybe @solderdude) can elucidate.

I found the LCD-2F to be a bit 'coarse' in the treble. I have to admit having heard about 3 of those LCD-2 and one sounded smoother than the other 2 in the treble.
LCD4 is smooth in the treble and a bit more 'refined' sounding but personally would not go for the LCD4 even though it sounds a bit better.
Tonally they differ just slightly.

 

[trl]

LCD4 is smooth in the treble and a bit more 'refined' sounding but personally would not go for the LCD4 even though it sounds a bit better.

I did liked the LCD-4 myself too in a side-by-side compare with LCD-2F driven by a Gustard H20. However, LCD-4 needed more power than LCD-2F, but the soundstage and trebles of the LCD-4 were definitely better. Too bad of their price.

 

[Gabs]

I have several headphones such as the Oppo PM3, Aeon Closed, HE400i, SR80e, M40x, M60x, etc...and I stopped buying headphones when I discovered the mega cheap Senfer (xba 6in1, UES pro) and Zero Audio (Zirco line) IEM. They are not completely replacing my headphones but I really stopped buying stuff after that.

 

[A800]

I think I have mine. Matrix Audio X-Sabre Pro -> THX AAA 789 -> Focal Utopia

I think so, too.

 

[DivineCurrent]

I've been very content with the Sennheiser HD58X and Focal Elex with EQ for the past few months. Now I just want to replace my Tone Board + Atom with an RME ADI-2 DAC and I'll be set for a long time. I am also considering getting a planar magnetic to switch things up a bit, like the Hifiman HE-4XX or the Audeze LCD-2.

If cost were no object, I'd also get a Benchmark HPA4 hooked up to the RME ADI-2 DAC. And throw in an Audeze LCD-4 while we're at it.

 

[soundwave76]

I think I am there with my Stax L300 Limited. Maybe I will upgrade the Stax amp in the future, but the sound is now just fantastic!

 

[ShiZo]

Rme adi 2 dac < benchmark hpa 4 < focal clear, im seriously wondering if there could be a better headphone.

 

[ThatspottyJackal]

Mine are honestly either GS1000e, Semi flat speakers or the LCD2. Since it's for a place were isolating gear isn't needed and want to try grado stuff for a change.

 

[realear]

I'd skip the 820s unless you need isolation or prefer aesthetics of it. The original 800s are the best value and close enough to the S and 820 that you won't notice the difference, and nothing EQ can tweak. I've seen some as low as $500 in great condition on eBay so it's an very attainable one and will always be one of the greats.

Per this forum's recommendation, I'm running SMSL SU8 > Monoprice 887 > Focal Utopia

I'm going to try the Topping D50S + JDS Atom, since it's kind of overpowered for the Focals.

I've seen the Raal and the Headspace thing, but the only headphone that interests me as a "ender game" since all headphones over $1k seem to be more of a sidegrade are the new HeddAudio Heddphones. People have been saying they are like Utopias with better bass extension and harder slam.

 

[mechapreneur]

I'm not sure there is an endgame. I'm pretty happy with my DACs and Amps today, although I just saw the RME is updating the ADI 2 Pro FS with a new black edition and presumably updated internals so I might "need" to pick one of those up.

But headphones are another thing. I'm starting to feel about them the way my wife does shoes. I've got Etymotic ER4s, Airpods, Airpod Pros and Bose QC35IIs for specific purposes. And then I've loved my Sony MDR-V6s with their 40mm dynamic drivers for like, ever. But I want to try different, like really different. So I went looking for planar magnetics and might still buy an Oppo PM-1 or 3, but already picked up the Fostex T50RPmk3 and love it. I didn't think I would like open back, but really do, so now I need to figure out what is next.

I think I'd already have the Senn HD820 if they had a metal framed version, but I don't like plastic as much and it seems wrong for $2k+. The Meze Empyreon (sp?) on the other hand... that looks nice.

Even if I find perfect though, I could see buying something completely different in another 5-10 years.

 

[solderdude]

I do like RAAL's recommendations for the headphones amplifier:
"100W Speaker Amp
Required
Any loudspeaker amplifier will work."
Given their 10KOhms impedance (if I read correctly Stereophille's graph), I guess that means about 40mW of real power (20V RMS @10KHms).

Was just reading this older post.
The Raal SR1A has an 18 mΩ (0.018 OhmΩ) resistance.
The interface box (a bunch of resistors is series with the driver) increases this to 6Ω (and for the highs to 10Ω)
This is why one needs a power amp of about 100W.
24V into 6Ω = 4A which is needed for the driver = 73mV = 0.3W in the driver itself (at loud SPL)
The remaining 99.7Watt is converted into heat by the resistors in the interface box and some more in the used amplifier.
This makes the SR!A by far the most inefficient headphone on this planet.

The Jotunheim R is a better alternative as it skips the power wasting box.

 

[pavuol]

Some time ago when I looked up to what level a price for a headphone can grow, I stumbled across this story:
My story of comparing Senheisser Orpheus (1.gen) and Hifiman Shangri-la

Overall, some nice reading, make up your opinion

 

[solderdude]

I really liked the HE-1 (would never buy it) and thought the much, much cheaper (but still pricey) Sanoma wasn't far behind.
Should visit my dealer who has a Shangri-La demo set to give it a listen.

Won't buy any of them though.

 

[trl]

Was just reading this older post..
The Raal SR1A has an 18 mΩ (0.018 OhmΩ)
The interface box (a bunch of resistors is series with the driver) increases this to 6Ω (and for the highs to 10Ω)
This is why one needs a power amp of about 100W.
24V into 6Ω = 4A which is needed for the driver = 73mV = 0.3W in the driver itself (at loud SPL)
The remaining 99.7Watt is converted into heat by the resistors in the interface box and some more in the used amplifier.
This makes the SR!A by far the most inefficient headphone on this planet.

The Jotunheim R is a better alternative as it skips the power wasting box.

Thank you Frans, it's clearly stated here: "The RAAL ribbon's natural impedance is a near-dead-short 0.018 ohm. Therefore, they need to be driven by a 50–150Wpc loudspeaker power amplifier (not included) via an impedance-matching interface box (included)". I don't know on what page I was looking for when I wrote my previous post, so thank you for the correction.