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What wire to build my own RCA interconnects?

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motorider

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I like the Neutrik RCA connectors of all the ones I’ve used. Canare’s L-2T2S or L-2E5 cable is as good as it gets and is cheaper than Mogami.

Honestly, if one cable is all you’re making, by the time you invest in the materials and tools and equipment for soldering , it’d be cheaper just to pay the $20.

But – if you’re inclined to make your own and this is new for you, check out my epic guide to DIYing your own cables.

https://www.hometheatershack.com/fo...-guide-making-your-own-cables.html#post116023

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Thanks for the advice. I picked up 14' of canare wire and 8 neutrik rca connectors you recommended for $17 at Redco audio. I cant wait to get the goods. I did notice that the images on redco are slightly different than the ones you posted in the link. It is the same part number, but it looks like they redesigned the connector portion slightly.
 

rebbiputzmaker

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Thanks for the advice. I picked up 14' of canare wire and 8 neutrik rca connectors you recommended for $17 at Redco audio. I cant wait to get the goods. I did notice that the images on redco are slightly different than the ones you posted in the link. It is the same part number, but it looks like they redesigned the connector portion slightly.
Redco is great, they will build customs cables also for not much more $$$.
 

Wayne A. Pflughaupt

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Thanks for the advice. I picked up 14' of canare wire and 8 neutrik rca connectors you recommended for $17 at Redco audio. I cant wait to get the goods. I did notice that the images on redco are slightly different than the ones you posted in the link. It is the same part number, but it looks like they redesigned the connector portion slightly.

I’ve noticed that of late – it looks like they did away with the strain relief spring.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt
 

Speedskater

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Canare star quad is always a good bet imo. I prefer to not use coax, rg59 or rg6 as they often require use of a connector of matching size and style.
a Star-Quad cable would be used in a XLR balanced interconnect, and only then in harsh interference situations (like near a theatrical lighting system).
for an unbalanced RCA interconnect, use a coax with a heavy braided shield (more important for longer cables).
 

DonH56

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May be a terminology thing, but for high-RFI environments I would use a 100% foil shield rather than "heavy" braided shield. I have seen heavy used two ways: one is to indicate a physically heavier wrap, the second to indicate a braid that is actually two layers wrapped on top of each other, typically with the second wrapped in the opposite direction to provide greater shield coverage.

I agree completely on star quad cables. All the audiophiles seem to jump on star quad but to me it is way overkill and just makes for a bigger, less flexible, more expensive cable with no real (practical) benefit in the vast majority of systems. And using it in a single-ended run seems a misuse of the technology...
 

rebbiputzmaker

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May be a terminology thing, but for high-RFI environments I would use a 100% foil shield rather than "heavy" braided shield. I have seen heavy used two ways: one is to indicate a physically heavier wrap, the second to indicate a braid that is actually two layers wrapped on top of each other, typically with the second wrapped in the opposite direction to provide greater shield coverage.

I agree completely on star quad cables. All the audiophiles seem to jump on star quad but to me it is way overkill and just makes for a bigger, less flexible, more expensive cable with no real (practical) benefit in the vast majority of systems. And using it in a single-ended run seems a misuse of the technology...

Hi Don,

Canare star quad is inexpensive, thin and very flexible. People are at times not careful when they dress cables and may pickup line noise and not realize it. There is really no down side imo. Also some people do not build, or utilize the shield properly, and do not connect it on one side (input end) etc.

I also have built many unshielded cables, twisted, braided etc. It just depends on application.
 
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motorider

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When I used to work in industrial controls, we used to connect one end of the low voltage control (analog 4-20ma) circuit to ground. It does not matter which end. The key is that only one end can be grounded though. We usually just grounded the cable in the main cabinet rather than in the field. Either way we all agreed to where the grounding would take place and follow through the project with the same methods. The other end was cut off to prevent grounding. This was used to prevent ground loops. Not sure if the same principle applies to audio.

In any case, my run is only going to be like 6." I am not too worried about noise. Im currently using an old HOSA 20' RCA with the cheap molded plugs and it works great just coiled up like an antenna on the floor. lol. Im certain anything I build will work fine.

I already ordered the Canare L-2E5 cable recommended earlier as well as the connectors recommended here.
 

Speedskater

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May be a terminology thing, but for high-RFI environments I would use a 100% foil shield rather than "heavy" braided shield.
While an added foil layer would be good for reducing high frequency RFI (say above 10-50MHz). The heavy braid is what is needed to reduce Common Impedance Coupling Noise currents.
 
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motorider

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They are complete. I'm not crazy about the neutrik connectors in the redesigned outer ring. Not sure of terminology. The outer gold plated part that holds the plug on tight. It is a tight connection, but it only grips on two sides and allows the connector to wiggle. Other than that they were super easy to solder up. First time cable builder here.
 

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maty

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Star-Quad-...an-Damme-Cable-Gold-Plated-RCAs-/162345475698

I like very much the star quad cable from Van Damme. In my tweaked and modded cheap open dynamic headphones. XKE starquad. Cheap and with very good specs!

[IMG, link] http://maty.galeon.com/WP-imagenes/hard/takstar-ts671-recable.jpg


VAN DAMME TOUR GRADE CLASSIC XKE STARQUAD MICROPHONE CABLE

http://www.van-damme.com/vandamme_p...-grade-classic-xke-starquad-microphone-cable/

thinner:

VAN DAMME TOUR GRADE CLASSIC XKE MINIATURE STARQUAD

http://www.van-damme.com/vandamme_product/van-damme-tour-grade-classic-xke-miniature-starquad/


Of course, Canare star quad is very good too.
 
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maty

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maty

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To finish,

Years ago, someone told that a certain American brand that manufactures expensive speakers that measure very well, with very low THD+N, used inside Canare 4S11 starquad cables, at least in the most expensive / exclusive models.


thd_90db.gif
 
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Panelhead

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I'm a fan of Amphenol connectors, enough room to work with. Other than that I'm using Sommer Cable. I'm from Germany though, so this is the obvious choice.


I order my Sommer cable from Germany. Really like the SC-Club Red Zilk.
Have used Carbokab and Black Zilk. Maybe it is looks, the Red Zilk is gorgeous cable. Translucent red jacket. Little copper strands imbedded in the plastic.
Used twist up my own using 24 - 26 ga solid core copper. But the Red Zilk is easier.
I use Amphenol also. Love the T series 1/4 phono as the best phono plugs ever made, the XLR are as good as Neitrik.
Switched connectors to NOS Amphenol Twinaxial BNC on my DIY gear.
These have heavy silver plating, Teflon insulation, 4 GHZ bandwidth, and are MIL. Also gorgeous.
My interface connects to my amp with Red Zilk cable and TRS plug on one end and Twinaxial BNC on other.
Good to see another who like Amphenol and Sommer.
 

zalive

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For a high quality IC, Neotech UP OCC solid core copper or silver 24 or 26 AWG wire, braided into a twisted pair. Plus Starline one-point contact low mass RCA connectors. Teflon insulation requires some burn in time, 120+ hrs.
 

eliash

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In case you build your own cables, there are some interesting points I discovered over the years
(and I have invested so much time into this subject that even this lengthy post feels not lengthy at all):

- Thick stereo cables (like RG59/RG6) are a bit difficult to properly attach to each other. When routed close to a transformer (close to the amp) with some distance between them, this assy will pick up audible magnetically induced hum!

- Using thin, but well shielded satellite cable (e.g. some 4mm) may cause loss of channel separation due to its high outer conductor resistance, especially if you use resistor attenuators built into the (wrong) sourcing end of the cable, or your amp´s input resistance is rather low (<10KOhms).
On the other hand the thin dia let´s you put a decent length in heat shrinking tube to avoid magnetic pickup as decribed above and it has excellent electrical shielding, outperforming all the braided cables.
Therefore it has been my choice so far, admitting that its use has to be rather in a "non or seldom moving" way, because of their single inner-wire construction. Anyway, it´s also 75Ohms and therefore low capacitance, lower than (well-shielded) mic-cables...

- RCA connectors are really difficult matter, I try to avoid them, because of poor standardisation on measure and material.
Anyway, sometimes a cheap connector is the only choice, making an electrically durable interconnect.
I once bought a nice dual shielded cable with gold-plated? connectors for a NAIM integrated amp with gold-plated RCA-receptacles. Unfortunately they were only gold-plated on the outside (nickel inside?).
After every few days, there was so much chemical build-up from that unholy material combination, that even the RCA was isolating.
Not any snake-oil cure helped, but one of my oldest no-gold cables some 20y old!

- Again RCA connectors, this time concerning measures.
There are so many poorly fitting connectors (and probably receptacles as well) around that even the outer contact is a problem, not really clamping properly on the outer receptacle and giving only poor contact. The only proper solution I found are clamping connectors with an adjustable cap ring (these hexagonal ones).
Positive about them, there is enough space inside, to house a resistor attentuator for level alignment of different sources (it works, but only when carefully designed and matched to the individual source!). Drawback is the large diameter, sometimes causing problems when locking the hexagonal cap ring. Anyway, my choice, because the material seems to work with my equipment receptacles´ contacts on the long run.

- Best choice is of course using plugs and connectors in combination from the same quality source (if possible at all, one of the few trustable names was mentioned before...and of course avoiding "finger-touch-sensitive" connectors like RCA at all...).

Happy soldering!
 

zalive

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would less than 100 hours mean it sounds shite during that time ?

When you plug it in initially it's not bad.
In between, especially at 20-50 hrs mark, things sound pretty distorted with complex instrument/voice sounds, when it comes to high spectrum end. Like it's missing, sounds like a big roll off. So IME the second day is the point when you think 'wtf is this', but luckily, from that point on things start to improve. I guess using certain samples speeds things up but I used 'light' music only. The next time I would use something like Densen DeMagic in hope it would burn the insulation in faster, but I yet have to try this.
 
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