What to do? Restore, Buy New, Buy Used.

[Bdee1]

I have a budget of about $700 to $800 to spend on an endgame 2ch amplifier. I have a Wiim Ultra I want to use as a preamp. I listen to streaming, lossless CD rips, and records. Speakers are Athena ASF 1.2. 200w max.
Buckeye NC502 has caught my eye, as has the Schiit Vidar 2 but both have detractors.

I can also restore a Kenwood C1/ M2 combo that works fine for the same amount I think. Or Restore 2 Hafler DH220s that hum. I'm using the Hafler with the Wiim right now and it sounds great but it's developed a hum.

Id rather buy something new or have the vintage stuff running like new to match the resolution of the Ultra and HR music.

 

[Holmz]

…
Id rather buy something new or have the vintage stuff running like new to match the resolution of the Ultra and HR music.

Ok do ^that^ then.
The idea of matching the performance of the Ultra sort of gets quickly negated with the speaker distortion.

I’d probably do the Hafler, just because I like the name. And 2 halfs make a whole.
In reality that hum might be something that is simple to address.
Or at least simple in hindsight once, one figures out why.

 

[Bdee1]

Ok do ^that^ then.
The idea of matching the performance of the Ultra sort of gets quickly negated with the speaker distortion.

I’d probably do the Hafler, just because I like the name. And 2 halfs make a whole.
In reality that hum might be something that is simple to address.
Or at least simple in hindsight once, one figures out why.

I think 2: worst case scenarios are bad transistors or bad transformer. Best case complete recap. More expensive optionn and may alter original sound is change transistors. Bad transformer it goes in the trash. May involve mailing it off if I can find a real pro.

 

[solderdude]

A new (switching) amp may have a shorter life-span than a correctly restored old amp.
That old amp may well last 1 more of its previous live so if it were 30 y.o. it might live on problem free for another 25 years or so.

Humming from the amp (mechanical) requires replacing the transformer which may be difficult to find. Could also be a matter of tightening nuts/screws.
Humming from the speakers when it did not before is probably a recap.
I don't think transistors will need replacement.
What might be needed to be replaced is adjustment potmeters and relay(s) and maybe clean switches and controls if they don't work as expected.

 

[antcollinet]

I think 2: worst case scenarios are bad transistors or bad transformer. Best case complete recap. More expensive optionn and may alter original sound is change transistors. Bad transformer it goes in the trash. May involve mailing it off if I can find a real pro.

Is it humming from the amp, or humming from the speakerr?
If from the speakers, does it hum with nothing connected to any inputs?

 

[raceskier]

I'm currently using a 45 year old DH200 in my main system. Re-capped in the 90's, replaced I/O jacks with modern gold plated items and a new power switch. It's performing flawlessly. Did a couple weeks of back and forth level matched listening tests with a Fosi V3 stereo amp, and could really not detect any difference between the two. There are a couple vendors (Google is your friend) that carry Hafler replacement components; caps, MOSFETs, transformers etc., as well as offering re-builds. I've been thinking about the Vidar2 or something similar, but seriously doubt I'll be able to hear any difference.

 

[Clmrt]

I'd do the Haflers. Hand over both in case parts are needed - strip one to help the other.

I like that series of Athena speakers, by the way. The floor standers can get a little hooty from panel resonances, but overall, very good.

 

[Power Pop 23]

I have a budget of about $700 to $800 to spend on an endgame 2ch amplifier. I have a Wiim Ultra I want to use as a preamp. I listen to streaming, lossless CD rips, and records. Speakers are Athena ASF 1.2. 200w max.
Buckeye NC502 has caught my eye, as has the Schiit Vidar 2 but both have detractors.

I can also restore a Kenwood C1/ M2 combo that works fine for the same amount I think. Or Restore 2 Hafler DH220s that hum. I'm using the Hafler with the Wiim right now and it sounds great but it's developed a hum.

Id rather buy something new or have the vintage stuff running like new to match the resolution of the Ultra and HR music.

I can't speak to the reliability of your options. I am satisfied with my Buckeye Amps NC502. It seems transparent and the available power on hand is likely 'end game' for my use case. An NC502 can be powered up or down with a WiiM Ultra.

 

[DVDdoug]

Restoration or repair is rarely economical unless you can do it yourself with free labor. And perhaps you enjoy it!!!

Otherwise it requires expensive skilled labor, and replacement components have to be purchased one at time (it they can be found at all), etc.

Modern mass production is usually highly automated requiring very little labor, and the labor is low-skill and often in the 3rd-world. So, perhaps sadly, it's usually more economical to replace than to repair.

Used (or "vintage") can be fine. Solid state electronics lasts a long time and usually the specs/performance isn't that much different from anything newer. (If you get older tube equipment you are less likely to get good performance.) The power amplifier I use for my subwoofers is around 40 years old.

My AVR is newer because I need HDMI & surround decoding, etc.

 

[Miser_Audioman]

I’d consider new D class from China like v3 mono. Satisfying amplification for around $200 bucks. Projects are fun, but only cost effective if DIY…. Frankly amplification has become a rather boring topic, tons of excellent cheap stuff out there.